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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 12-12-2009, 12:25 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Smile Solve almost all cold start problems! - No glow plugs, or block heater needed! - KBI!

Alright, I have had issues with my 88 F350 start when it gets down to minus 5 out like last night.... So I had come across a injection system that allows me to start it this morning in -5 degree weather without being plugged in, or even needing to use the glow plugs....

However, I do believe if this kit is installed, you should switch your glow plugs to manual (push button) so they don't fire unless you would rather use them than the kbi system.

I don't understand why I have never heard anyone on this forum talk about these or have one installed.... I bought one and installed it in less than 30 minutes, jumped in the truck and fired it up in 3 seconds without being plugged in and I did not use the glow plugs. It was only 4 degrees out!! This little device works great, and at 149 bucks you can't go wrong.

I hope this helps some of you that have had cold start problems in chilly enviroments.

KBI Safe ether assistance injection system

"KBi DIESEL START is a measured shot, metered flow, operator controlled high pressure starting fluid system. With a DIESEL START system, a chambered valve controls the quantity of starting fluid injected with each activation while an orifice in a nozzle restricts the rate of flow to a safe, effective rate. Operation of a DIESEL START, measured shot metered flow system requires an operator to press and release an electric push button switch or pull and release a control cable while an engine is being cranked. With the electric system, a temperature sensitive switch may be installed (KBi Thermo-Guard), which makes the starting fluid system inoperative on a warm engine, preventing potentially damaging injection of starting fluid"
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:02 AM   #2 (permalink)
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That's just a cold start diesel ether injection system. They've been around (various brands) for heavy diesels since the '60's out of necessity because the Detroits, Cummins, etc, didn't have any other cold starting aids. With that said, your engine will last a lot longer and it's much easier on it to use the glow plug or heating grid that was factory designed for the smaller diesels.
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:09 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
-5 degree weather without being plugged in, or even needing to use the glow plugs....
Cheaper yet move to 10-30 diesel oil and use the Beru GPs........
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
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cdnsarguy do you use 10-30 motor oil in your truck for the winter.the reason im asking is that there is no plug ins at work but i plug the truck in at home and would 10-30 oil help with cold starts in the winter or should i stick with 15-40
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Old 12-12-2009, 10:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Retto216 View Post
Alright, I have had issues with my 88 F350 start when it gets down to minus 5 out like last night.... So I had come across a injection system that allows me to start it this morning in -5 degree weather without being plugged in, or even needing to use the glow plugs....

However, I do believe if this kit is installed, you should switch your glow plugs to manual (push button) so they don't fire unless you would rather use them than the kbi system.

I don't understand why I have never heard anyone on this forum talk about these or have one installed.... I bought one and installed it in less than 30 minutes, jumped in the truck and fired it up in 3 seconds without being plugged in and I did not use the glow plugs. It was only 4 degrees out!! This little device works great, and at 149 bucks you can't go wrong.

I hope this helps some of you that have had cold start problems in chilly enviroments.

KBI Safe ether assistance injection system

"KBi DIESEL START is a measured shot, metered flow, operator controlled high pressure starting fluid system. With a DIESEL START system, a chambered valve controls the quantity of starting fluid injected with each activation while an orifice in a nozzle restricts the rate of flow to a safe, effective rate. Operation of a DIESEL START, measured shot metered flow system requires an operator to press and release an electric push button switch or pull and release a control cable while an engine is being cranked. With the electric system, a temperature sensitive switch may be installed (KBi Thermo-Guard), which makes the starting fluid system inoperative on a warm engine, preventing potentially damaging injection of starting fluid"

I am so happy to have seen this system, because i just get exhausted plugging my truck in that back bending and pushing the plugs together is just rough. Ok back to seriousness. I think I would just prefer using the system designed by international for there engines.
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Old 12-12-2009, 12:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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A bunch of the equipment at work had these systems. HAD. They are so much of a PITA that we took them off everything but the 3-53, 4-53, and 8.2l Detroits, and our one Perkins 6.354. Use it long enough and you'll get the old crankcrankcrank WHEEZE (jam) and the engine catching while cranking for a while after. I've seen a few sleeves with windshield-wiper-shaped marks due to the rings breaking from starting fluid and wearing out the ring grooves. Nope, I'll stick with glow plugs and block heaters.
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Old 12-12-2009, 11:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Yes, I already have beru Glow plugs, 2 new 1200cca batteries, new injectors, but when My truck is sitting out in the lot at our farm for a week in 5 degree weather or so, It wont start no matter how many times I try the glow plugs or crank the engine. It would certainly be nice to plug it in, but outlets out here are hard to come by.
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Old 12-13-2009, 12:10 AM   #8 (permalink)
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If your GPs are cycling and working and it is hard to start after sitting a while then you probably have a fuel leak(s) that suck air while sitting.

You know what they say, look for the wet spot!
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Old 12-13-2009, 06:02 AM   #9 (permalink)
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One word (well, 4 actually): Diesel-fired coolant heater!
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Check my lists of common part numbers in my photos! Updated often!

1991 F350 Lariat XLT, 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, SRW, 3.55, 2WD.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!
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Old 12-13-2009, 09:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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could install a espar heater Espar - Automotive or you could just get a small generator and plug the truck in.
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Old 12-13-2009, 02:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I just bought an 7.3 engine off a guy who used ether to start. He knew enough to disconnect his GP system but I want to know how hard is ether on an engine? I know there are a lot of differing opinions out there but I am just curious. Pretty sure I didn't buy a lemon but won't know until its in. For 350, i could probably part it out and make money back.
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Old 12-14-2009, 07:10 AM   #12 (permalink)
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but I want to know how hard is ether on an engine?
That's pretty much impossible to say. For over 30 years I worked on or drove stuff with ether starts and I never saw any ill effects. The ether kits were on many series of Detroits, Cummins, Case loaders, etc, and come overhaul time we never found damage that could be blamed on the ether kits. At one place I worked there was a huge portable air compressor powered by a Detroit 671 with no low air override switch. So when ice cold you had to start it with ether and the instant it fired, the engine went to maximum governed RPM instead of idling. It held together and ran like a top for the 1 1/2 years I was around it. If the guy you bought the engine from used ether with common sense maybe you did good.
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:58 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Well, 2-stroke Detroits are just not of this world LOL We have a GPU (Ground Power Unit) w/3-53 at work that I had to PM one day - probably the first one in a couple years - and 5 quarts of oil came out of it. Five. Quarts. (I measured.) It took either 14 or 16 quarts to fill it back up, but before the PM it ran like a champ, always started right up regardless of the temp, and even under the heaviest load it wouldn't vary the frequency by more than a few hertz (it's a 400Hz unit for airliners, freq is controlled by engine speed.) Same goes for the 8V92-powered air starts that USAir & Continental used to have on the field - absolute monsters that could handle anything thrown at them, including huge doses of starting fluid that put 'em right on the pin with zero oil pressure.

Anyway, getting back on topic, there are just some engines that handle starting fluid well, and some that don't. Indirect-injected diesels with disabled glow systems (GM 6.2l & 6.5l, Cummins A-series, Perkins 4.108, Kubota, etc) have never seemed to take it well in my experience, and neither did B-series Cummins or 4.236 Perkins. Why not the IDIs? I don't know for sure, but I think it has to do with the pre-chambers. I never really looked into it because plugging in the block heater made starting fluid unnecessary. I spent many a day with a propane heat-shrink gun, warming up 3.9l Cummins so they'd start and trying not to melt anything important (most of the ones we had came with no cold starting aids.). After we installed block heaters on all our Cummins stuff, we rarely had problems with them at the shop - out in the field was a different story, though. 4.236s often had a flame manifold heater that worked down to maybe -20F, but if it was colder or there was no flame heater taking off the rubber air intake hose and sticking a rosebud torch in the intake manifold for a minute or 2 usually got them going.
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Check my lists of common part numbers in my photos! Updated often!

1991 F350 Lariat XLT, 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, SRW, 3.55, 2WD.

1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!
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