Have been noticing my 7.3 has been turning over slower than usual when I try to start it. Saw that the altenator belts were somewhat loose so I tightened them. Got the engine started and drove to the garage to have both batteries checked and load tested along with testing the charging system. Everything checked out fine, batteries good and altenator a little low but a producing a little more than 13 volts. The tech said that when he tried to start the truck it seemed a little slow to him but since the shop didn't work on diesels he wasn't sure so keep an eye on it.
The next morning I tried to start the truck and one click--- no start. Each time I turned the key just got a click. Recharged the batteries, tried again------same thing. Does this sound like a solenoid or a starter or maybe a loose connection?
I bought the truck used and the previous owner had installed a new H.D. diesel starter and solenoid and showed me the invoice. It now has less than 12k miles on it. Is it possible this has gone bad again? What should I check out and how?
Mine did pretty much the same thing and both the wires on the starter were loose.
Might as well check all your connections, both grounds from battery to engine, solenoid, before spending a bunch of money.
ya loose connections first i had that issue a few times the diesels rattle the nuts loose pretty easily
next thing would be a new starter so lets hope its a bad connection
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, back up camera, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, front mount hitch and off road lights,93 front clip, headache rack, 37" humvee tires, ac power converter,factory buckets from quadcab, power windows and locks,cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, huge front bumper, oba,
in progress western style mirrors, holset turbo, airhorns, and some other goodies
Ya as Plywood mentioned check the ground cables!! sounds to me like ground issues that Iv'e had in the past! I always like to add an extra ground strap from negative terminal to engine block...to the stater bolts for example.
Poor grounding and starting problems is very common with older vw diesels!
1984 toyota BJ60 Landcruiser, 3B diesel, H55f 5 speed, Best rig Ive ever owned. Never needs anything, 503,000km, Old Man Emu suspension, rusty and running strong Will certainly outlive all my other wheels
1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 393,000km Excellent fuel economy!
I just had to replace the starter on my truck. I started to take the battery cable loose and the nut just completely stripped out. The starter was only two years old, but it was also from Autozone. I replaced it with one from Napa. Starts like a new truck now.
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1971 F250 Camper Special 390, c6 auto, 4x2, 63k original miles, rebuilt engine. It's had a hard life.
1984 F250 6.9 IDI, 4-speed manual, 4x4. Rolled so now its a project.
1985 F250 351W, C6 auto, 4x4. Dads truck.
1988 F250 7.3 IDI, C6 auto, 4x4. Bought it with new heads and rebuilt injection pump. Since then new parts include ball joints, brakes and brake components at all wheels including parking brake cables, fuel sending unit, injector return kit, belts, starter, batteries, and alternator. Sno-way 9'1'' v blade. Ready to make some money!
nu2this, what year is your truck? I put an adjustable regulator on my 91 and turned it up to 14.2 at the batteries and it makes a world of difference in starting and operation.. Low voltage will kill a starter faster than anything, should be no lower than 9 when cranking.IMO
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91 F350 crew cab 4x4 7.3 ats and intercooled with cut down 2000 ps cooler, bigger turbo comp,head studs, torque cam, coated rockers , balanced. very good power.
pyro,boost and all stock guages ignored with mechanical real ones
Fugitive sandrail. type 4 2840 turbo fi, lots of fun
Well, hopefully that's all it is, loose connection that is. I'll crawl under it tomorrow and take a look see. The truck does rattle a lot and perhaps has loosened everything up.
Check the solenoid on the side of the passenger fenderwell. When you hold the key in the start position you should get battery voltage at BOTH big lug terminals. If your getting just a clicky start, try jumping these 2 lugs with a screwdriver and the truck should crank. If it cranks then the solinoid needs to be replaced.
As rule of thumb
batt voltage Key Off: 12.6v
batt voltage engine running: 14.6v
minimum cranking voltage: 9.6v
On cranking the fuel shut off needs atleast 9 volts to hold open the fuel valve or it won't start.
I too have the click no start thing going on........ 4 year old starter. Went to get it replaced today..... low and behold they were going to put a snub nosed PSD starter in. I work/play with the guys at the shop so I had one hell of a time convincing them it was the wrong one. Bosch was the brand....... after much phoning to Bosch and the parts store.... we sorted it out. Bosch only handles rebuilt for our IDI trucks not new as I/we had hoped. 2 year warranty VS lifetime for new.
Hopefully it will be in tomorrow......AC Delco.... not a Mitsu as I had hoped. Hope we don't start all over again with the BS.
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cdnsarguy what was the cost of the starter,i have replaced mine 3 times in two years.there is a shop here that rebuilds the starters for $150(thats $450 for 3 starters).where did you get the starters with a warranty and price.thanks
Cdnsarguy! I have a "new" bosch starter with a lifetime warranty, got it from lordco. They gave me a choice of a rebuilt mitsu O.E.M or new for an extra $50
1984 toyota BJ60 Landcruiser, 3B diesel, H55f 5 speed, Best rig Ive ever owned. Never needs anything, 503,000km, Old Man Emu suspension, rusty and running strong Will certainly outlive all my other wheels
1985 Toyota 4wd pickup, single cab, rare 2lt 2.4l turbo diesel, 5 speed, custom flatdeck, timing belt every 100,000k and shes good to go. 393,000km Excellent fuel economy!
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Turn it up!
Will certainly outlive all my other wheels
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