Well I finally picked up the ebay F-350 I bought while in Iraq. Very happy with truck, just have to work out the bugs now. Stopped charging on me 1/2 way between RI and NY. Made it back and replaced I think the "original" alternator. Anyways, truck starts up great when cold, GP's cycle like they should. If I drive it for an hour or so, let it sit for 30-60min and try to start it again I have to crank it over for 30-60 seconds b4 she fires. I was thinking FSS solenoid? Thanks in Advance
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1993 F-350 Supercab Dually 7.3IDI, ZF-5 Nothing Special Yet.
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Nope, but your on the right track, What year?
Thanks for the service
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'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
One other point could be the IP is going down hill, there is a cold water dousing test but let's save that one for the final test as once done the pump is usually damaged and requires replacement.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
batteries are mysterious and can drop like a dime. Especially if the alt went bad. Check all belts, if V belts setup, if not check serp tension. Check for continuity to the Glow Plugs(GPs). An easy test is connect test light lead(wire/alligator clip) to Pos (+) and tap light to bare glowplugs on engine. Disconnect GP wire to individual GPs. If it lights then it is getting power, but not neccesiarly "glowing" right. If one is bad, go ahead and replace with motorcraft, and i(we) mean motorcraft glowplugs because others may swell and break when you go to replace the "others".
Please post your engine vitals in signiture for more experienced peoples with these engines to future diagose troubles.
I hope the best to you and your truck,
--Ryan
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91 f-350, dually, 7.3 diesel. 2wd, 4.10 gears LS. E4OD. New injectors, lift pump, and fuel filter at current 85,000 miles. Autometer pyro and fuel turned up. 3" exhaust with walker "btm" muffler http://community.webshots.com/user/olivera_149
his batteries are fine if he can crank 30-60 seconds and if the motor is warm then the glow plugs are a mood point. its just like pete said air in the return line or the ip went bye bye!
-Jeremy Roooster!
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American by birth, Southern by the grace of God!
1991 F250 7.3l 200XXX extended cab long bed. 3.55's REDNECKED OUT!! 295/75/16 Bfg All Terrains 16 in billet rims. New front brake pads and rotors, rear shoes, glow plug controller, glow plugs, return line kit duralast batteries, mitubishi off set gear redution starter, altenator, valve cover seals, holley red pump,new injector pump, soon to be new injectors, new vacum pump. Removed soup bowl and drilled holes in air intake.
This may sound funny but I think it is a problem with the ignition switch or something similar(maybe I was just getting lucky on the cold mornings), ie not getting power to everything it is supposed to when in the "run" position. I can crank it and have the problem ie 30-60 seconds to fire or not over a period of 10 minutes I started the truck up and shut it back of again 6 or 8 times. a few times it cranked 30-60 seconds and fired ,a few times it fired in 2 seconds. Any ideas? As for the fuel system it's still oem gray for the most part, did they spray the ip's at the factory or do they come nice and shiny when new like the GM motors. It has 170k on it for those that are curious, burns no oil besides what's in the fuel tank [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] and generally runs like a raped ape.
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1993 F-350 Supercab Dually 7.3IDI, ZF-5 Nothing Special Yet.
When it takes you 30-60 seconds of cranking to get it started, is the engine up to operating temperature? When it is up to O.T., does it always take the 30-60 seconds to start? On the other hand, when the engine is cold, does it consistantly start almost immediately? If this is what happens, I would start saving money for a new injection pump. Next time it happens, pour some "room temperature" water over the body of the injection pump.
Same thing happened to one of my work trucks. I or whomever was driving that truck would carry two or three two liter soda bottles full of water so we could get from job to job and back home! That worked for long enough to have the time to replace the IP.
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