Sterling Pinion Seal Replacement - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Go Back   Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > Ford Diesels > 7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes)

7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

TheDieselstop.com is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-04-2011, 07:17 AM   #1 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
standbypowerguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 734
My Photos: (28)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Sterling Pinion Seal Replacement

I just picked up a used 10.25" Sterling rear axle with 3:55 gears for the trucks in my sig. It's from a 97, but I measured everything and it's pretty much a drop-in replacement. It was at a dealer/boneyard, and obviously sat outside for some period of time. I pulled the pan while I was there, the oil was in good condition, no more evidence of water than I'd expect from condensation over the years, and the internals all appear to be in good shape. The hub bearings seem fine, there's no play in the pinion, and when you spin the driveshaft yoke everything feels "right". I drained the axle when I got home, pulled the axle shafts, slid a magnet up the tubes to pick up the bits of rust that collect there, and I'm presently waiting for the rest of the old gear oil to drip out the axle tubes, one side at a time, since I'm planning to refill it with synthetic.

Now to the problem. The pinion seal area is very rusty, and there's a loose rubber gizmo that looks like it might be part of the seal just flopping around on the pinion yoke. It doesn't resemble the plastic dust shield on my existing Sterling. There's no evidence of leakage whatsoever, but to be on the safe side, I'd like to replace the pinion seal and put on a decent dust shield if I can find or make one. I've been searching the forums, and there are tons of opinions on how to do this job. Some of them seem reasonable, others do not. So what's the right way to change the seal? Do I really have to get a crush sleeve and set the preload, or can I mark the nut and count the turns? If I do have to set the preload, what are the specs?
__________________
'89 F250 2WD XLT Lariat Supercab,
7.3 IDI, C6, 10.25" 3:55, dump bed.

Mods: Gear Vendors overdrive, ATS 085/088
"Frankenturbo", boost and EGT gauges in pod,
K&N air filter, cold air intake, filter minder, rear
work lights, 'monback beeper, pintle+ball hitch,
brake controller, CB.

Wish list: 130 amp G3 alternator, front hitch,
new hood, fresh paint.
standbypowerguy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-04-2011, 08:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Cody, Wy
Posts: 10,002
My Photos: (27)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
If I do have to set the preload, what are the specs?
Therein lies the problem, you can't get an accurate preload reading because you're also turning the carrier ass'y, axles, etc, which throws the reading way off. There's a preload spec given but it's with the carrier ass'y removed so you're just turning the pinion gear. Standard shop procedure is to ACCURATELY mark the nut and pinion shaft, replace the seal and IIRC tighten the nut to right at 150 ft.lbs. and that should line the marks up in their original position. Check the companion flange (yoke) for a scored surface if so you'll need a Speedi-Sleeve or drive the seal either shallower or deeper so it rides on a new (smooth) surface.
__________________
Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.
LMJD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-04-2011, 04:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
standbypowerguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 734
My Photos: (28)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by LMJD View Post
Therein lies the problem, you can't get an accurate preload reading because you're also turning the carrier ass'y, axles, etc, which throws the reading way off. There's a preload spec given but it's with the carrier ass'y removed so you're just turning the pinion gear. Standard shop procedure is to ACCURATELY mark the nut and pinion shaft, replace the seal and IIRC tighten the nut to right at 150 ft.lbs. and that should line the marks up in their original position. Check the companion flange (yoke) for a scored surface if so you'll need a Speedi-Sleeve or drive the seal either shallower or deeper so it rides on a new (smooth) surface.
Axle shafts are no biggie, but I'm not about to mess with pulling the carrier. Too easy to muck things up, and the rear end expert in my family is presently deployed to the middle east. I will do as you advise, many thanks for the detailed info.

Managed to borrow a socket for the hub nuts, so I'm going to pull them as well to check the seals, and also to remove the backing plates. Both need a good cleaning, and one has a flat ding in the edge that I need to heat up and straighten out. Looks like the axle was dropped on that side at come point. I think the flat area would be larger or the plate would be warped if the truck had fallen off a jack.
__________________
'89 F250 2WD XLT Lariat Supercab,
7.3 IDI, C6, 10.25" 3:55, dump bed.

Mods: Gear Vendors overdrive, ATS 085/088
"Frankenturbo", boost and EGT gauges in pod,
K&N air filter, cold air intake, filter minder, rear
work lights, 'monback beeper, pintle+ball hitch,
brake controller, CB.

Wish list: 130 amp G3 alternator, front hitch,
new hood, fresh paint.
standbypowerguy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-14-2011, 02:41 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
standbypowerguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 734
My Photos: (28)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
All Done (I think)

So the final part I've waiting on, a plastic dust shield for the driveshaft yoke, came in this morning at . I had scored the yoke, shaft and nut before I removed them, and also counted the visible threads above the nut (4-1/2). I lined up the marks and reinstalled the yoke at lunch. The torque wrench didn't click at 4-1/2 turns showing with the hash marks aligned, but I torqued it to 150 ft/lb as instructed. The nut wound up roughly 1/6 of a turn beyond the hash mark. Think it will be OK? The preload and backlash feel similar to before, at least by hand. unfortunately, I didn't have access to a small enough indicator-type torque wrench to read the preload (with carrier) before disassembly, so I don't have anything but feel to compare it to.
__________________
'89 F250 2WD XLT Lariat Supercab,
7.3 IDI, C6, 10.25" 3:55, dump bed.

Mods: Gear Vendors overdrive, ATS 085/088
"Frankenturbo", boost and EGT gauges in pod,
K&N air filter, cold air intake, filter minder, rear
work lights, 'monback beeper, pintle+ball hitch,
brake controller, CB.

Wish list: 130 amp G3 alternator, front hitch,
new hood, fresh paint.
standbypowerguy is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-14-2011, 03:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Cody, Wy
Posts: 10,002
My Photos: (27)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
That's about the best you can do. The torque spec on those particular pinion bearings is so very few inch pounds that a torque reading with the carrier ass'y installed wouldn't mean much since it's turning too. Sounds like you got it right.
__________________
Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.
LMJD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > Ford Diesels > 7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes)

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



Wheel & Tire Center

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:32 PM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.