I have a 93 F-250 7.3 turbo, supercab 4x4, 5-speed. The clutch pedal is hard to press, this not a new problem I have had the truck for a year and it has done this from the begining. The previous owner said that is the way it is and he had the truck about 5 years. I pull a 29' fifth wheel camper and the clutch does not slip. I realy like the truck but now have a knee problem that makes it hard to drive. Any help on making the clutch more user friendly
thanks, PacaMan
1. Pull out the throw-out arm in the bellhousing, clean and lightly grease pivot point and fingers where they tough throw-out bearing (mine was dirty and dry).
2. Check that the plastic bushings and shaft(s) in the linkage under the dash are good...(my bushings were worn out).
Lube every part of the linkage starting with the clutch pedal, cross overshaft, replace the nylon bushing under the dash, pull the clutch fork lube the pivot points and the part that slids on the throw out bearing. Also lube the shaft the throw out bearing rides on. Yes it can be done and it's worth the effort, mine now shifts like NEW.
__________________
1993 F250 7.3IDI Turbo (factory) 2X4 ZF5 4.10 Diff, Extended Cab Long Bed 114K miles
*Certified Aircraft Mechanic by choice, Ford Mechanic by necessity*
Yea, that's not too big a deal, but that's not where the cause of the problem lies. You *do* want to lube all the pivot points, but the high pedal effort is caused by the T.O. bearing collar binding on the input shaft bearing retainer sleeve that the collar slides back and forth on as the pedal is pushed. That's what Bluefishbeagle was referring to. I've had to lube the collar/sleeve area about every 1 1/2 years since I bought my truck new in '91. I've got a "Mickey Mouse" pain-in-the-butt way of lubing it, but it gets the job done without pulling the trans. In later years Ford came out with an improved T.O. bearing collar that has a wiper on it that eliminates the problem.
spray chainlube seems to work better on transmission input tube than grease or oil. Can also drill a 1/8 inch hole in the clutch brake shaft then use a chain saw tip greaser to grease the shaft.
can make up a kit to replace the bushing that always wears out. check out this post about 4 down: ZF-5 wont go into gear
That's a great idea. I've been putting a piece of vacume hose over the end of an oil squirt can, fishing the hose over the sleeve and dripping a few drops of oil on it. Chainlube with the little straw on the spray nozzle sounds like an easier way to go.
I finally had time to get under the truck and pull the clutch fork. I was able to use the chainlube on the T O bearing slide and the bushings on the clutch pedal shaft. The good news is that the clutch pedal moves better now, the bad news is that I need to replace the bushings under the dash. The one at the rod-end before the master cylinder is pretty bad and there is about 3/8" play. The other problem I have created with freeing everything up is that the tranny grinds when I put it in gear, mainly reverse. I think the bushings should take care of that.
Thanks for all of the great advice and I will be on the side lines reading and learning. My next project may be to look for more power, I hear that replacing the turbo housing, down pipe and exhaust is the first step.
PacaMan
__________________ 1993 F250 super cab, 7.3 turbo 5-spd, 4x4, 195,000 and going strong.
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stiff clutch pedal
1993 F250 super cab, 7.3 turbo 5-spd, 4x4, 195,000 and going strong.
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