Thinking of buying a 1993 Non-Turbo 7.3....

[Gator5713]

Howdy folks! Since this is my firts post, I will briefly introduce myself, then get onto the questions... My name is 'Gator' (no, not really, but that is what most people call me) I run a 'Hot-Shot' trucking service in East TX. I have been around trucks and Diesels most of my life, and work on most of my own stuff. However, I also realize that I am NOT 'all-knowing' and have gotten farily good at searching the interweb for info when I need it! This looks like the place I need for my current question (and possibly many more...)

I found a couple of 1993 Ford trucks with International 7.3 non-turbo motors in them. A F-350 with about 150k miles and a F-250 with about 180k miles. I know of a few of these out there with really impressive mileage counts on them, but before I buy one I had a few questions... I know that International put out a 'throw-away' block for a while. Basically it couldn't be rebuilt, even the water pump housing was cast as part of the block! What I DON'T know, is Which series of motors this was... Is the '93 one of those? If so, then the rest of the conversation is probably over as I probably won't buy one of these trucks...

If not: What are the major known issues with these motors that I should be looking for before purchase? (or their paired automatic/OD tranny's?)

The 350 needs new batteries, new front tires, rear ABS (sensor?), and a rear fender.

The 250 needs a radio... Overall the 250 seems to be in better condition/tighter/runs better and is quieter, even though it has more mileage (I don't think it was run as hard/towed as much) but the 350 does run and drive well, even having been used to tow (has a GN hitch and was probably used to tow a travel trailer..., just my guess...)

The guy selling them is asking $3999 each for them, which is a decent bit above KBB (especially for the 250) but I am considering offering him what KBB says...

What say ye, the 'experts'?

Thanks in advance!
Gator
>|--|~

[osufireman]

Well, my 1990 7.3L IDI doesn't have a cast water pump, so I don't see why IH would just try it in 1993 for kicks. Definately check under the hood, that'll give you the answer to that one.

As for other things to look out for, major stuff, cavitation in the engine, E4OD problems. Ask about the coolant maintinence and SCA (supplimantal coolant additives), if they've been kept up with you'll be set, if the seller has no clue, be skeptical, make sure there's no white smoke/coolant smell to the exhaust.
Ask if the IP has been rebuilt ni the life of either truck, and check out for fuel leaks from the injector return lines. Also, ask to start cold, that'll give you an idea if the GP's work good or air intrusion. I have heard that the rocker arms and guides wear out is a common problem on these motors, listen for signs of worn/bad valves (I'm sure you know what to listen for).

As for the E4OD, search the forum, you'll find tons of info. Ask if it has been rebuilt and UPDATED. Being 93's they'll have some already done, but there were improvements such as going from a 3 gear aluminum rear planetary to a 4 or 6 gear cast steel, much stronger. Check the fluid once its up to temp and see how it is, Red? Black? burnt smelling?

Being mechanical beasts that these things are they are a good running solid powertrain that I have experienced so far. Most of the info I have learned is what I pick up as I go, questions and reading from TDS forum, and my big ol' Ford shop manual

Definately I wouldn't pay more than Fair market Value (KBB, NADA, etc.) Good luck!

[Gator5713]

Thanks for the info!
The Tranny fluid in both is bright red (Good!) but does smell slightly burnt, but not so bad that I would be worried, just need to be changed. It is also not gritty at all (another good sign!)
The motors both feel tight with no valve noise! (the 250 is tighter and quieter) And the trannys shift smooth, downshift when they are supposed to, hold onto the gear longer during hard acceleration.... Although the 350 didn't want to go into OD during hard acceleration, which is both good and bad... It should have shifted up at some point before I let off of it...

Here is another question for you all... I am fairly certain that the 350 has a 'lower geared' rear end than the 250 (my guess is the 350 has a 4:10, what would the 250 be?) And what type of fuel mileage have you all been getting out of these beasts?

Whatever truck I get will be in constant service with lots and lots of highway miles put on very fast with anywhere from nothing to a few thousand pounds in it/behind it...

[Gator5713]

Oh, yeah... Another question:
How viable is it to add a turbo to these? Plug and play? or not worth the bother?
Also, will adding a turbo damage the engine/cause it to wear faster??

Thanks again for the answers/advise!

[Gator5713]

And to answer a couple of your 'questions for the seller'... These trucks are on a dealer lot, so... No maintenance records, no 'viable' source for what has happened with these trucks...

[osufireman]

Originally Posted by Gator5713

Thanks for the info!
The Tranny fluid in both is bright red (Good!) but does smell slightly burnt, but not so bad that I would be worried, just need to be changed. It is also not gritty at all (another good sign!)
The motors both feel tight with no valve noise! (the 250 is tighter and quieter) And the trannys shift smooth, downshift when they are supposed to, hold onto the gear longer during hard acceleration.... Although the 350 didn't want to go into OD during hard acceleration, which is both good and bad... It should have shifted up at some point before I let off of it...

Here is another question for you all... I am fairly certain that the 350 has a 'lower geared' rear end than the 250 (my guess is the 350 has a 4:10, what would the 250 be?) And what type of fuel mileage have you all been getting out of these beasts?

Whatever truck I get will be in constant service with lots and lots of highway miles put on very fast with anywhere from nothing to a few thousand pounds in it/behind it...

Well, the 350 not wanting to go into OD might be something to consider. Although my 250 E4OD when cold doesn't shift up to OD under hard acceleration as quickly. I believe the TC is allowed to not lock up to produce extra heat to bring it up to Operating temp. See if the dealer has a "code reader" to check the 350, just to make sure that there isn't a fault with the sensors.

Fuel mileage, with my 250, 4speed auto, 4.10, I see about 16 on the highway. No Turbo, stock y-pipe and exhaust. I can also tow 10,000 lbs, so perhaps the 4.10 isn't necessary for your outfit, since you'll only tow a few thousand and primarily be on the highway and be looking for better fuel mileage. Look in the drivers side door for the axle code, or look for the tag on the pumpkin, it should give the gear ratio on there too.

Turbo's, I don't have one but I've heard that you can't go wrong with the ATS turbo. ATS was the company contracted to make the turbos for FORD when they started putting them on these things in 1994. I've heard less than desired results from some people about Banks turbos, but I have nopersonal experience. A new larger exhaust and Y-pipe upgrade is recommended. Also I've heard about acquiring a Turbo IP and turbo injectors, to supply the fuel needed for operating the turbo.

The constant maintenance is a good thing, that will definitely help which ever truck last a long time, under 200K miles, they've still got a long life ahead of them!

[DieselDually1993]

Before I would ever buy another truck, I would ask for 2 things.
1.Numbers from a compression test to confirm the pressure in the cylinders is okay
2. to look into wear of the engine. You can do this by taking an oil sample from his truck and sending it in to place like blackstone (if you mention you heard this from the Diesel Stop forum, you can get a discount). They can measure ppm of every metal in the truck as well as coolant in the oil etc...

you might be out 30 bucks for the test, but it could save you hundreds or thousands on R and R on a bad engine.

Im finding this out now as I got taken for around the same money your guy is offering.

If you are worrying about the trucks going fast, you should maybe cut a deal about putting money down with full payment upon completion of these tests.

[mutantvan]

I thought I'd put my two cents in....
I bought a non turbo 7.3 because I didn't ever want to deal with replacing a turbo, and I don't feel I need the extra power.
Power is fuel, simple as that. If you need it, fine.
I am sold on the torque from a diesel vs gas rig. I would love to have more gears!

It would be nice to have a turbo if you operate at 8-or 9000 feet all the time, but I think the money would be better spent on more gearing for the power you have.
I also think the mechanical fuel injection is less complicated and far less expensive to replace than the Powerstroke equipment.
I have replaced a couple of tranny's though (E40D) and I would pay close attention to how those were operating on the rigs you are considering.
I am getting a pretty consistent 16-17, loaded or not, but I don't drive my truck above 65 very often. Mostly 60 mph.

[DragRag]

If it's not shifting into O.D. you can plan on a new tranny, unless that rear ABS sensor is really bad. Mine was bad in a 93' F350 that I had picked up, but it would bounce out of second, but would shift into O.D. You need to assume the worst there, a tranny issue makes the truck worth nothing close to $3999. Bad tranny truck IMO is worth no more then $1000, and that's if it is pretty nice. It is easy to find turboa for these truck, I just picked up a complete turbo set up for my 92 from a guy on another IDI forum for $200 complete.

[GuyW]

Ford started putting turbos on these engines in 1993 (see sig line), but the OEM setup had better rods (so I've heard), but folks have turboed these for years before with no problems (so long as the boost isn't turned way up).

I read a hotshotter's plan for long life with these trucks - 60 mph freeway speed (2000 rpm) and he gets 1 million miles...

BTW - turbos get MORE power from the same amount of fuel....not less...

.

[cdnsarguy]

Do a check of the trans for codes set OBD1, the connector is in the drivers side corner by the hood hinge. Codes are listed in my photo link..........