Those dang glow plugs - Diesel Forum

bcreighton7 · 03-31-2006, 01:47 AM

Ok, I'm no diesel mechanic. I've replaced 6 of the Delphi's the PO had put in. Any tips or tricks to gettin in the back 2 GPs on the passenger side? This is the factory turbo. Short of taking off the turbo and the air housing, I don't see how I'm going to get this done - talk about tight spaces!! I took off the air housing for the driver side, but it looks like the turbo might have to come off for these last 2 babies. I don't have a decent manual for the diesel either - so please chime in - how do you guys accomplish this small feat?

olivera149 · 03-31-2006, 02:53 AM

i hope you are replacing the ol delphis with motorcraft/berus. Only use m/bs cause others can and will swell and tips will break off.

Go to a local autozone which seems to be the cheapest for the m/bs.

About the turbo, i dont know if there are any tricks, but somebody will followup with some more useful info.

--Ryan

cdnsarguy · 03-31-2006, 10:05 AM

This info from another post....

You can get the back glow plugs out using a 1/4 inch drive socket, it helps to remove the injector lines and vibration clip to give yourself some room, but you do not need to remove the turbo.

bcreighton7 · 04-01-2006, 09:50 PM

I think I was using a 3/8 deep socket with a U joint - those back two are just - well the one under the turbo you can't even see.

Now I've got a new problem. I had 6 of my berus in, and I got it to start up cold. This morning I go out and nothing - I had to put it on the block heater again. I got my neighbor's tester, and the front 2 glow plugs at least had nothing - no light when I touched the leads. Is this a reliable way to test the GPs? Seems like I remember you guys saying it's not. So now I don't know if I fried my relay, or the glow plugs or something else. I know I didn't burn them even 45 secs - certainly not straight. I've read people hook them up to a battery, and the berus will last longer than 45 secs. How would I use an Ohm meter on them?

WUNDERHOOT · 04-01-2006, 10:07 PM

to get those hard ones in the back corner out with out removing anything get a mac tools long 1/4 inch extention that has a universal built into the extention and a deep 1/4 drive 3/8 socket it works like a charm.test the glow plugs with the wire conected to them with a over the wire style amp meter.most glow plugs draw around 9 amps or less but they must draw something or they aint no good.and that POS expensive glow plug realy timer thing i throw in the trash and replace it with a cheap regular old relay a high amp on like 80 or something like that you know the kind that ford bolts on the pasenger fender for the starter on all there trucks.get that kind just get a high amp one.then i wire it to a push button in the cab.works great and last a long time and is cheap.use never sieze on the new glow plugs and tighten them in with just a good little snugg there not lug nuts.with that tool and the new relay glow plugs will be a sinch for the life of your truck.

OkieGringo · 04-02-2006, 12:30 AM

Have you checked the fusible links in the GP circuit. They are real close to the starter relay on the passenger side fender well. To use a regular test light, hook the ground lead to the battery positive and then stick the point of the light to the top of the glow plug. If it lights up bright, GP is good. No light or dim light, GP bad (not likely with new Motorcrafts but very possible with even new Autolites). OkieG

bcreighton7 · 04-02-2006, 12:57 AM

Did this with the test light on the front two - of course I changed them in a pinch this last fall because they were the ones I could get to on a trip. Since then I've been running them overtime to get me started, so it's possible I did fry them. I just replaced the other 4, like 2-3 days ago, but I didn't test them, but from the sound of the engine turnover, they may be fried - that is what I don't get. My OEM relay is already bypassed. PO owner had someone do it. But they used Delphis with flat leads, so unless I change out the lead terminals, I have to use ZD-1-As instead of ZD-9s. Where can I get terminals that will work on the ZD-9s? AutoZone didn't have anything. Will I have to go to the dealer? In the mean time I will test the other 4 new berus, and let you know what I get.

OkieGringo · 04-02-2006, 03:05 AM

You should be able to find blue bullet crimp-on connectors at a good autoparts store. Ya gotta "think outside the box" and not rely on those kids behind the desk. They ain't working at a autoparts store because they did well in school [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]. OkieG

Mr_Roboto · 04-02-2006, 12:29 PM

[ QUOTE ]
Did this with the test light on the front two - of course I changed them in a pinch this last fall because they were the ones I could get to on a trip. Since then I've been running them overtime to get me started, so it's possible I did fry them. I just replaced the other 4, like 2-3 days ago, but I didn't test them, but from the sound of the engine turnover, they may be fried - that is what I don't get. My OEM relay is already bypassed. PO owner had someone do it. But they used Delphis with flat leads, so unless I change out the lead terminals, I have to use ZD-1-As instead of ZD-9s. Where can I get terminals that will work on the ZD-9s? AutoZone didn't have anything. Will I have to go to the dealer? In the mean time I will test the other 4 new berus, and let you know what I get.

[/ QUOTE ]

You already have the flat terminals and a bypassed controller. No reason to go back to Ford's bastardized system now. Buy a set of Motorcraft GP's for a 86 - down 6.9L, or get a set of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6-9L-...spagenameZWDVW

bcreighton7 · 04-02-2006, 10:58 PM

Well -- they're all fried - all six - 4 only used once. Don't know what the deal was, but doesn't make me particularly impressed. Will replace one more time. I did forget to reconnect the small hose to the turbo - so the engine was "smokin." I thought it was just oil I spilled onto the block - I took off the oil sender, and turned over the engine to see if I got any oil. Put it back together, and now my oil pressure gauge is working again. So I'll let you know if the GPs burn out again. If so, something is goin on.

bcreighton7 · 04-06-2006, 11:29 PM

Could a break in one of the harness wires(about half the copper wires being broke by one of the terminals) cause enough resistance to blow the GPs?

aaklingler · 04-07-2006, 12:31 PM

I doubt it would blow the gp's but it i would probably cause them not to burn as hot as they should, possible no start, fit it!