Remove the turn signal assembly, then unscrew the 1st black shroud.
In order to get the new tilt actuator in place, you will need to remove the pivet pins. One on each side of the second black shroud. A pivet pin remover works good, other people have made their own.
--Hugh
__________________
1991 F250 XLT, 2WD, 7.3L IDI, 5 speed, 168K.
You just need to remove the pivot pins. Find a fine thread screw and 2 nuts that will screw into the pivot pin.
thread the nuts on screw, then screw the screw into pivot pin, spin the nuts down to the pivot pin and tighten the nuts to the pin, now turn screw out and pivot pin will unscrew. OkieGringo
1 Disconnect battery ground....
2 Turn lock cylinder key to run position......
3 Place a 1/8 diameter pin (drill bit) in the shroud under lock cylinder.
Depress retaining pin while pulling out on lock cylinder to remove it from the column housing.
To install key cylinder
1 Instal lock cylinder by turning it to run position and depressing the retaining pin. Insert lock cylinder into lock cylinder housing. Make sure cylinder is fully seated and aligned in interlocking washer before turning key to off position. This will permit cylinder retianing pin to extend into cylinder housing hole.
2 Rotate lock cylinder, using lock cylinder key, to make sure of correct mechanical operation in all position.
2 Connect battery ground cable
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
I just went through this repair a couple of weeks ago. It's not too bad, but there are a couple of things to be aware of. When you are going to take the tilt pins out it is easier if you take the snap ring off the steering column first (you need to remove the snap ring to allow the tilt mechanism to slide up the steering column). If you do what I did and remove the pins first, it's a pain to get it off. When you remove the black shroud that contains the key cylinder (which will already have been taken out) pay close attention to the way the gear mechanism is fitted in there. When you put it back together you will have to reach down into the hole (with a pair of snap ring pliers) that the key cylinder goes in and remove the snap ring, small plate, and the gear at the bottom. You then have to put the new rod in place and replace the shroud. Then you need to replace the gear, plate and snap ring in the bottom of the key cylinder. You may have to put it in and take it out a few times to get everthing lined up correctly. I tried to do it without taking the gear out and I don't think it's possible.
Someone may have a better way of doing that part of the repair.
To get the tilt pins out all I did was get a #8-32 machine screw and a socket with a washer on it. I just put the screw through the socket with a washer to keep the head from going through and pulled it out that way. On an older truck they usually come out easily.
Not sure if any of that helps you. It's not a terribly difficult repair. Once you're in there it will all make sense.
Hope you get it fixed.
Bruce
__________________
1990 extended cab, 4X4, five speed.
I'm not sure how you guys measure screws over there, but in Canada the size that fit was a #8-32 machine screw. The machine screw threads are different than other threads. I believe, but am not sure, that the first number (8) refers to the size of the screw and the second number (32) refers to the threads/inch. I think you'll find that the pins come out quite easily, particularly if you have used your tilt regularly.
As stated earlier, the fiddly part of this repair is replacing the round gear at the bottom of the key cylinder so it is coordinated with the flat gear that connects to the rod. You'll see when you get in there.
Good luck.
Bruce
__________________
1990 extended cab, 4X4, five speed.
The gear is OK and the flat gear is OK. The problem is the aktuator where the rektangular rod was broken at the base.
The number 8-32 is not familiar for me. In Norway it is most commen to use screw-sice in mm (millimeter), but I guess that I have to find an "inch-screw" to the pins in this US car.
Here in Norway it is more snow than at the last 40 years so I will be happy to have my 4x4 "on the road again".
I'm sure you will find something to pull those pins out with. I'm sure they will come out easily. The trick is to get the two gears coordinated so that when you turn the key you get the right connections. You must remove the round gear from the bottom of the key cylinder, then insert the flat gear and position the shroud, then insert the round gear, plate and snap ring. Then make extra sure that you have the gears in the right position before you replace everything else. I found that I had to remove and replace the round gear several times before I got the two gears coordinated.
Good luck, and take advantage of all that snow and get out to do some skiing !!
Bruce
__________________
1990 extended cab, 4X4, five speed.
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.