Top Dead Center

[WilsonJ]

OK I muffed up the injector timing gear, the cloud of white unburn't diesel smoke is way intense and it stalls out instead if idling.

I found this
"Talk about Timing!!"
seems like a good plan.

I'm strugling with lining up Top Dead Center, the pics to me are ovbously show somthing I don't see, I know my 92 350 7.3 has a serpintine belt, not an alternator accesory belt.

And also on a water pump reinstall, is it a gasket or rtv between the pump and the engine face plate? Maybe split the diffrence and go with blue rtv gasket maker? I already pulled the pump but not the face plate. The motor is still in the cab and I'm way short on elbow room for resealing the faceplace plate and cleaning the surfaces.

Three cheers for the forum that has got me through so much so far. HIP HIP HORRAY

[asauer]

I don't have much good advice on finding top dead center for you, sorry. But I can tell you I don't remember having a gasket to replace when I changed my water pump- I think it was just silicone. Unless it came with a gasket... Did yours?

[cdnsarguy]

Were you trying to put the IP gear back in as per Ziggster's info......

The timing mark is found on a little plate that is on the front of the engine on the passenger side. The plate is mounted so it is very close to the main pulley on the lower front of the engine which is mounted on the vibration damper. On the side of the vibration damper, is a line, which when lined up with the line marked (O) on the plate, tells you that the #1 piston is at TDC(top dead center) You can see the line on the damper, and it points to the line on the plate with the (barely visible)O mark on it.You'll have to find a way to turn your engine over by hand (Crank/harmonic balancer bolt). Make sure you remove the power wire to the injection pump(so the engine won't start)and then rotate the engine until you can line up the marks.
The engine rotates in a clockwise direction as seen from the front of the truck, and for every 1/4 turn of the engine(crank) each next piston will arrive at TDC. So, When the line on the vibration damper is at the 2 oclock position, cylinders 2 and 5 will be at TDC. When the mark is at the 5 oclock position, cylinders 7 and 6 will be at TDC, 8 oclock has cylinders 3 and 8 at TDC, and back to 11oclock, 1 and 4 will be at TDC.
Cylinder numbers are assigned 1,3,5,7 on the left (passenger USA) bank from front of truck to back, and 2,4,6,8 on the driver's side (USA), front to back. Firing order is 1,2,7,3,4,5,6,8.
OK all the above is true...... to ensure the #1 piston is at TDC compression remove the inspection cover on the oil filler/gear cover. You will see a dowel pin from the IP if it is at 4 oclock that is TDC compression stroke, if it is at 11 oclock that is TDC exhaust stroke.......


As for the water pump.... there should be a proper gasket in the box or available at parts. LIMIT the use of RTV...... get good automotive quality ie "The Right Stuff" is what we use.

[WilsonJ]

Thanks so much, now get it.
I need to super clean the little plate mounted thing right there with the pair of pencil sized cylinders on it. That and a real good blast of light down there and a friend to either look or turn the wrench on the cam. Good now all I need is a friend, guess my wife will do. Actually she's learning quite a bit on this project helping me out and what not.
Anyways I do that and align the marks, then pull the cover and look at the alignment pin, 4 o'clock is good.
It's funny that's where my motor stoped when I did the head, my # 8 cyl was all the way up, wish I would have known then what I know now.
I'll look for that gasket, thanks for the hand, you guys are definately getting the credit for being the brains in this operation.

[94_turbo]

EVEN IF--you had the piston in the same position--when heads are off--there is near no drag to the engine--and youd only have to bump it slightly to cause the tooth to be off just one---------been there-----and then you wont get it timed--which is what your experencing now----joy!!!!!!!

[Bill1013]

" That and a real good blast of light down there and a friend to either look or turn the wrench on the cam. "

Take an 1-5/16" socket, 4" extension and breaker bar, turn the engine clockwise on the lower damper pulley bolt head , that is the end of the crank. Don't turn counter- clockwise, they use bolt locker at factory assembly, but you could break it lose.

[ltaylor]

thats a 15/16" socket, bill.

[Bill1013]

thats a 15/16" socket, bill.
__________________


Stand corrected, you are right. Don't know how I got the dash in there.

[WilsonJ]

For the record I used a 24mm deep-impact Stanley 1/2" drive, no extension, from the set I picked up at wall-tart.
Here is the real 'silly rabit' question I have.
Is this an all SAE (english fraction) socket truck?
Mine is a '92 (and a half if that matters) F350 7.3 liter International motor. I've noticed that alot of these bolts you guys call out are in english and I've mainly used metric sockets <only switch to SAE when I really need to> with fairly good success. I'm just curious really. I know for alot of sizes you can mix and match and alot of vehicles do mix and match, a 92 ford would generally be concidered a metric. However this is a 92 f350 diesel which makes it what like the 10th generation of ford's diesel 350 done in this way. So in the earyl 80's the detroit ASE gang could well have still been in SAE mode. I did absolutely use a 1/2" 12-point on my head bolts, but I do remember my buddy a ford dealler mechanic calling them 13mm, I think that was after we both had 'has a few'.
I AM SO BEFUDDLED AND CONFUSED WITH THIS TRUCK IT MAKES ME QUEEZY - must be all the stess and lack of sleep.
Once again, thanks for all your collective help and patiance with me and this debocal.
With out this forum my truck would only be worth it's weight in Scap Iron.

[cdnsarguy]

These trucks are both SAE and metric............ so keep them both handy. Some guys will let a slightly sloppy socket do the job.............. sometimes to the detriment of the nut/bolt other times the fingers and knuckles........ to each his own.

[LMJD]

On my '91 the engine is 100% SAE as is most of the rest of the truck. But everything to do with the frame (shock bolts, crossmember bolts, etc,) is metric. Same with some of the interior trim bolts. Real handy----NOT!

[Bill1013]

Man you got that right Pete. Those milli mucker bolts and nuts cause a lot of foul language, even taught myself some new words. Takes a half ton of wrenches to do a minor job.

1/2" or 13mm. 9/16" or 15mm 15/16" or 24mm 5/16" or 8mm and on and on who know's. LOL