Transmission shifting probs

[RunRed]

Well my BW 1356 transfer case went out, so since the BW 1345 was cheaper I just got one of them to replace it. All is well but when on the highway, it doesn't shift out of 1st gear until it nearly hits the redline. I don't know what could be causing it to do this, any suggestions?

[aaklingler]

Check the connections on the tranny. Is there any sensors on the tc and was there any sensors on the old tc? Will it shift if you lift. Have you done anything with the fipl lately?

[RunRed]

It does shift if I lift, but I am pressing on the pedal as if I were trying to win the best gas mileage championship, so I don't see why it takes so long to shift. I am not sure what you mean by fipl. Only sensors that didn't work on the BW 1345 were the ones that made the 4x4LOW light turn on because the cable was too short.

[caseyj]

Same symptons my truck had until I had the tranny flushed. I would start out in 1st. and it would not go into second until I let up on the pedal. Worth a try?

[aaklingler]

fipl is the throttle position sensor on the ip, i can give you the test for it if you want. Does your speedometer and tach work right? What is 2-3 and 3-4 shifts like? Is the od light bliking?

[RunRed]

I will try flushing it, 2-3, 3-OD seem to shift the same way. All my gauges work. O and whenever I floor it, it shifts down and revs up to 2500RPM or so like it should but when it gets farther up the RPM it starts to lose tons of power and just stays at the speed it was going whenever it had power or starts to slow down. I haven't pulled any trailors with it because of this problem, but I have only owned it for 2 months.

[cdnsarguy]

That sound somewhat like a fuel problem, when was the filter last changed, have you done a pressure and quantity test on the lift pump at the fuel filter header.

[aaklingler]

Here's the test for the fipl. ************************************************** ****************

Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL or TPS) Check and reset procedures.

The FIPL is a fundamental part of the operating system of the E4OD transmission. It aids the Transmission Electronic Control Assembly in determining proper shift points in relation to throttle position and allows the computer to determine both WOT for downshifts and idle position for TC lock and unlock.

Resetting or replacement of the FIPL can solve many of the problematic shifting issues with the E4OD transmission mated to the 7.3L IDI's.

Below are simplified procedures that can be used to adjust/reset the FIPL.

Hook up the negative lead of the volt meter to the battery ground and the positive lead to the center GY/W (grey/white wire which is the FIPL signal wire, I use a paper clip up the side of the wire in the connector. The FIPL must be attached to the wiring harness. Engine low idle speed must be set to specs prior to adjusting the FIPL.

Engine off key on........
With a warm engine, key on, engine off measure the voltage at the GY/W wire, if adjustment is required loosen either the bracket with bolts or just use the slack in the Torx screw holes. Now gently rotate the FIPL until you get some where between 1.05V and 1.1V. Then tighten the torx screws or bolts which ever you loosened ensuring no movement of volt setting. Rotate the throttle lever to WOT see if you get 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.

The FIPL mounting bracket can be moved but ensure it is centered for a good rotation. Any adjustment should be made by only rotating the FIPL. If a new FIPL is required, check tang engagement as you take off the old FIPL and then make sure that the tangs in the new FIPL engage the throttle lever properly.

The closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, .........wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.


DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO

DATE 1992

REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate

RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles, with the late gray colored FIPL.

PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C

[RunRed]

I changed all filters after I bought it. I'll have to try that voltage thing if the flush doesn't work. I think the "engine idle must be set to specs" is alright because it runs at 800RPM for a while when cold then it drops the gas pedal and revs lower (tach reads 0 RPM because it revs so low) but from what I've seen that is normal.

[aaklingler]

There's something wrong there and i'm guessing it your tach, possibly the sensor, which is the 1" ish nut on the gear cover on the front of engine, pull it out clean it off and do a ohm test on it, let us know what you get, i think it sould be in the 2000-3000 range.

[RunRed]

Hmm, I'll have to check that nut, not sure how you do a ohm test though. 2000-3000RPM is where it should rev on warm-up?, sounds pretty high. I'll go see if I can figure out the "1"ish nut.

[FORDSTANGER]

No not 2000-3000 RPM!!

He was refering to K Ohms or 1000 ohms (2000-3000 ohms)resistance across the sensor. If there is any less, the senser is most likely bad. This is the same sensor that the transmission ECU gets its rpm info from. Therefore, the ECU does not know the correct rpm. BTW zero rpm at any engine speed is not "normal". However, the tach may be bad vice the rpm sensor. Check all of the connections at the trany anyways. There is one on the RH side (coil pack) and one on the LH side (neutral safety switch). Also check to see if the Speed sensor on the differential is dirty or loose.

[aaklingler]

thanks fordstanger, i guess i did a pretty bad job desribing that.

[RunRed]

Can't figure out how to use my OHM meter, has volts and 20 other things on it. I have seen many trucks run at 0RPM like mine thats why I thought it was normal. But it revs at 800RPM when cold then once it's warm it drops to 0, still runs just fine but the tach like loses voltage or something. If you rev it up the tach jumps to life and will tell you anything over maybe 700rpm. When it revs low though it just says 0. Guess it's off, now if I could figure out the OHM meter. On the 1 inch nut, what did you want me to clean? Didn't think you cleaned the bottom of that nut that gets oiled. BTW, if that sensor is bad, could it be the thing causing the shifting crap?

[aaklingler]

Pull the nut out and just wipe it off good it can build up with metal shavings. Don't know what to tell you on figuring out the multimeter, ohm is the funny looking greek symbol.