Truck just cut off and will not start - Diesel Forum

JDeere5105 · 07-05-2005, 12:41 AM

First of all this is a post for my Uncle who has an 88 idi f-250 4x4 5spd. The symptoms are as follows: Driving down the highway pulling 16 ft tandem work trailer and truck skips twice and dies. Will not start back. He did tell me that he has replaced the fuel pump. He also said that he is getting fuel to the filter and beyond it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Just need some advice on where to start looking. Thanks again.

Jason [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

cdnsarguy · 07-05-2005, 01:48 AM

Get him to check the FSS (fuel shutoff solenoid) on the IP (injection pump) for 12volt power key on. With the key on disconnect and connect the FSS wire and there should be an audible click, if there is power and no click the FSS is probably gone bad.

You say he NOW has fuel to the IP how much pressure and flow:
Do pressure and flow test on the fuel pump at the Schrader valve on the filter (FSS- fuel shutoff solenoid disconnected). Remove the tire valve core and hook a hose and pressure guage on it should see 4-6 psi when cranking. Then do a fuel quantity test same place, should see 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of engine cranking, route fuel to a suitable container with a hose.

If there is a problem with the lift pump and you are changing it, ensure the new pump comes with instructions as to correct installation procedure if it is the newer model pump with the almost straight arm.

How long ago did he change the fuel lift pump, the reason I ask is:

This info pertains to Carter #M60278 pump.

WARNING

This fuel pump must be installed only at the low position of actuator cam.

If the pump is installed at any other position than low cam, the pump will be ruined, the engine will stall and damage may result.

Incorrect installation will loosen the pivot pin and allows the pin and lever to come out of the pump and drop into the oil pan. This can occur immediately or after several hundred miles. This type of failure is not covered by warranty.

To ensure that the cam is at low position, it is necessary to use a mirror and a remote starter switch. Observe the cam through the mounting port and bump the engine around until a one (1) inch wide machine surface is observed. This is low position of the cam. Now complete normal fuel pump installation.

9502CA
1991

Post back with any more info you get........and visit my gallery for pics re locations of IP items.

94_turbo · 07-05-2005, 09:20 AM

me vote for the fss as pete mentioned--mine did it--luckly wasnt loaded and headed somewhere--the one out of an old 5.7 gm diesel will work--aint quite the same--but mines still running!!! and new there about 87 clams!!!! junkyard 5.7 would be cheap--just pull the top cover!!!and make sure have in the right spot when put back together--so dont get runaway!!!

JDeere5105 · 07-05-2005, 09:44 AM

Thanks for the great information guys! I am going down today and will relay this info. Thanks again and I will post the findings.

Jason

JDeere5105 · 07-07-2005, 08:26 AM

Well as of this point the truck is not running yet. I have not gotten to look at the truck myself yet, but he says that it is getting fuel to the filter and past it, but no fuel to the injector pump? I am not familiar with how the fuel is routed to the engine. Thoughts????

Thanks

Jason

JDeere5105 · 07-07-2005, 10:12 PM

Anybody?? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

BuilderBob · 07-07-2005, 10:19 PM

[ QUOTE ]
Get him to check the FSS (fuel shutoff solenoid) on the IP (injection pump) for 12volt power key on. With the key on disconnect and connect the FSS wire and there should be an audible click, if there is power and no click the FSS is probably gone bad.

You say he NOW has fuel to the IP how much pressure and flow:
Do pressure and flow test on the fuel pump at the Schrader valve on the filter (FSS- fuel shutoff solenoid disconnected). Remove the tire valve core and hook a hose and pressure guage on it should see 4-6 psi when cranking. Then do a fuel quantity test same place, should see 1/3 pint in 10 seconds of engine cranking, route fuel to a suitable container with a hose.

If there is a problem with the lift pump and you are changing it, ensure the new pump comes with instructions as to correct installation procedure if it is the newer model pump with the almost straight arm.

[/ QUOTE ]

I have had a lift pump go out like flipping a switch, good the night before, won't start the next morning, the lift pump can be installed quickly!

We need a little more to go on.

cdnsarguy · 07-07-2005, 10:32 PM

The fuel comes from the filter header via a steel line to the rear of the IP. The fuel pressured by the lift pump is forced through the filter and into the rear of the IP, there is another filter in the cone end too which is not serviced.

The pressurized fuel 4-6 psi is halted by the closed metering valve when power is removed from the FSS. The fuel will be made available to the IP pressurizing system when the metering valve is opened. only when power is applied to the FSS.

From the IP to the injector is by steel line and high pressure but small quantities..

If the fuel is going past the filter it should enter the IP, however if the IP filter is plugged or the metering valve/FSS is closed/fubar then no fuel and no pressure to the injectors.

icanfixall · 07-07-2005, 10:33 PM

Pull the small cover on the injection pump gear tower. Its the diamond shaped cover just above the water pump. You will see 3 screws that hold the injection pump drive to the gear. Whatever you do, don't remove the gear cover that the injection pump bolts to. It has 4 bolts holding it to the block and is half round in shape. If the truck is an auto trans it will have an electrical switch in the drivers side of it with 2 black wires going to it. Has anybody replaced the water pump lately?

denn34 · 07-08-2005, 07:02 AM

i had a similar problem.turns out my tilt steering columnm was breaking,with it hanging,it would be pulling the rod for the ignition switch and shutting the truck off

barlow46 · 07-09-2005, 07:38 PM

Be sure to check the fuseable link on the passenger side wheel well under the hood. I believe the one that I had go bad was either black or orange...been a long time...not real sure. I do know, I had the exact same symptoms before it blew. Good luck.

jdkline · 07-09-2005, 08:59 PM

First things first, do what all these gusy say and remove the FSS connector from teh IP. Turn teh key on, you should hear and audible "click" when it is put back on the pump, ignition in the "on" position. Assuming this works.....it is probably an air lock in the system...worst case scenario a fualty injector pump. You're gonna have to bleed the air out of that sucker! Crack the nuts where tehg hard injector lines bolt to the injectors. Crank until you have fuel squirting, dripping, misting anything from an injector, you want to tighten the injector lines down one at a time as they get fuel. Be advised taht you should not crank more than 15-20 seconds a pop without a 1-2 minute or longer cooldown to avoid frying your batts and starter. If the batts and starter were marginal anyway, this may finish them off. Also remove teh smaller cold timing advance lead from teh opposite side of the IP as the FSS. This acts as a restriction in the fuel system...and this is not what you want when you are trying to bleed air from the system. If you can't get the engine to start adter bleeding it a respecatble period of time I would ssupect teh injector pump. Keep in mind it amy take a bit of persuasion to get this thing going again, IDIs do not deal well with air bubbles in their fuel. You should also figure out why it quit...it could be
1) plugged air filter
2) massive air/fuel leak
3) defective injector pump
4) poor fuel quality...particularly gasoline or water in the fuel
Good luk and let us know when its running or if you have more qs.

OkieGringo · 07-09-2005, 09:21 PM

I keep harping on pulling out that mechanical transfer pump and installing an electric pump. When are you guys going to listen!!!! I had just installed airbags in my truck before I went to OK 3 weeks ago. I must have knocked off the wire to the epump while pulling the air pump wires thru the channel. My eldest son had tried to use the truck and ran it dry. I put the test light on the wire going down to the epump and it had juice, so I knew the wire had popped off. Sure enough. Hooked it back on, threw the switch to the 'prime' position, cranked engine for about 10 seconds and she fired right up. No need to bleed the lines, just pump the pedal a bit. ARE YOU LISTENING YET!!!!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img] This is not 'Rocket Science', you just have to listen to us 'Old Timers'. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img] BajaGringo aka Richard Cranium