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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 01-01-2013, 09:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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truck quit

I was driving truck at 40 mph and it died, no hesitation at all. The truck ran perfectly before this, there were no warnings . I am not getting fuel to injectors although there is plenty of fuel coming out of fuel filter. I pulled wire off of fuel shut off solenoid and could hear it click like it was operational but still not sure if it is. The injection pump has 40k on it. Is there a screen that could be blocking fuel from getting in injection pump somewhere? How can I check my fuel shutoff solenoid properly. What else am I missing ? Any and all help will be welcome. Thank you.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:26 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Anybody change the waterpump recently, incorrect replacement of the WP bolts can cause the inj/pump main shaft to break.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Not since I have owed the truck. Would there be hesitation or any warning before this? How do I see if it broke?
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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My first thought was the CPS.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:17 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What is CPS ?
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:30 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Cam Position Sensor
However, my brain is always thinking Powerstroke Engine.
And as I look closer at your post, your engine may not have one........
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I don't have a powerstroke just the old IDI with factory turbo , but please keep thinking for my brain has quit .
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Old 01-02-2013, 07:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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test lift pump

remove shrader core from fuel filter head, run a line into a jar
you want 1/3 pint or more after 10 seconds cranking with charged batteries

then hook up a pressure gauge
you should make 4-6 psi after 10 seconds cranking

if EITHER test fails you have a problem somewhere between the pickups and the filter head, probably the pickups or the lift pump

if both tests succeed your IP probably just failed
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doob51 View Post
How do I see if it broke?
To check your pump drive-shaft, take the 3 screws out of the top cover on your pump and remove the cover. Look down in the pump at the end toward the back of the engine and you can see part of the gov. flyweight assembly. Watch that while someone turns the engine with a socket on the crankshaft and see if the gov weight assembly moves. If it does the pump drive-shaft is ok, if it dont move, your shaft is broken.

Here is a pic of what I'm talking about. The shiny thing in the red circle is part of what should move.
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:41 AM   #10 (permalink)
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To check your pump drive-shaft, take the 3 screws out of the top cover on your pump and remove the cover. Look down in the pump at the end toward the back of the engine and you can see part of the gov. flyweight assembly. Watch that while someone turns the engine with a socket on the crankshaft and see if the gov weight assembly moves. If it does the pump drive-shaft is ok, if it dont move, your shaft is broken.

Here is a pic of what I'm talking about. The shiny thing in the red circle is part of what should move.
Thank you I will check this on Tuesday and let you know. I am jealous of the seats in your truck also. What year Ford did they come out of?
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:48 AM   #11 (permalink)
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You need a little more information. When you reinstall the cover and if the lever is in the wrong position the engine will run away when started and can't be shut down without choking off its air supply. I'd pull the triangular plate on the passenger side of the pump, safer plus easier to see the shaft.
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Old 01-03-2013, 09:04 AM   #12 (permalink)
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You need a little more information. When you reinstall the cover and if the lever is in the wrong position the engine will run away when started and can't be shut down without choking off its air supply. I'd pull the triangular plate on the passenger side of the pump, safer plus easier to see the shaft.

Thank you for the information. It seems I have plenty to learn. I will have questions about replacing the pump also if the shaft is broken.
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:56 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LMJD View Post
You need a little more information. When you reinstall the cover and if the lever is in the wrong position the engine will run away when started and can't be shut down without choking off its air supply. I'd pull the triangular plate on the passenger side of the pump, safer plus easier to see the shaft.
The original problem is that it died and he can't get it to start, so I doubt it's going to run away before he finds and corrects the problem.

Each to his own, but its easier for me to just take the top cover off to see the gov weights. How can it be easier when you have to use a mirror and a flashlight to look in that little hole down on the side of the pump?? Plus when you take that triangle cover off, your going to drain all the fuel out of the pump and you don't have that mess or reprime when you take off the top cover.....

doob51, the above info is right about getting the FSS lever back in the right position, but it is very easy to hold it back with a piece of wire while you re-install the cover. Click on this link: http://diezelcrazeesidipage.homestea...mbly22-29.html and scroll down to page 28 & 29 to see how to shape the wire tool and re-install the cover. This is straight from the Navistar manual.
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1994 F-350 XLT Crewcab 7.3 IDI Turbo, 4x4, E40D Auto, King Ranch Leather Seats.
Turbo Outlet Mod/Diamond Eye 4" SS Exhaust, DIY Propane, 10,000 miles on WMO/RUG Blend. Pics

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7.3 IDI, 4x4, 5 spd, manual hubs. WMO fueled

Massey Ferguson 1105 Farm Tractor WMO Fueled

1958 Caterpillar D6-9U Trying a little WMO in it......

diezelcrazees IDI website

Last edited by diezelcrazee; 01-03-2013 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:37 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm well aware of both procedures. Point is, the OP up until now had no idea the engine could run away, and if he incorrectly installed the cover, then found his no start was due to something simple as a wiring problem, fixed it then fired it up, he'd be in a world of hurt, right? I never found it much of a challenge to lay a shop rag under the side cover to catch what little diesel runs out, check for rotation, then reinstall with no need to prime. Seems a safer and more foolproof route for a poster not used to working on pumps, as you said, to each his own.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:42 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I have to side with LMJD on this one. Since your only looking for rotation, taking off the cover for the fuel screw is safest.


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