I was driving truck at 40 mph and it died, no hesitation at all. The truck ran perfectly before this, there were no warnings . I am not getting fuel to injectors although there is plenty of fuel coming out of fuel filter. I pulled wire off of fuel shut off solenoid and could hear it click like it was operational but still not sure if it is. The injection pump has 40k on it. Is there a screen that could be blocking fuel from getting in injection pump somewhere? How can I check my fuel shutoff solenoid properly. What else am I missing ? Any and all help will be welcome. Thank you.
To check your pump drive-shaft, take the 3 screws out of the top cover on your pump and remove the cover. Look down in the pump at the end toward the back of the engine and you can see part of the gov. flyweight assembly. Watch that while someone turns the engine with a socket on the crankshaft and see if the gov weight assembly moves. If it does the pump drive-shaft is ok, if it dont move, your shaft is broken.
Here is a pic of what I'm talking about. The shiny thing in the red circle is part of what should move.
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1994 F-350 XLT Crewcab 7.3 IDI Turbo, 4x4, E40D Auto, King Ranch Leather Seats.
Turbo Outlet Mod/Diamond Eye 4" SS Exhaust, 6500 miles on WMO/RUG Blend. Pics
To check your pump drive-shaft, take the 3 screws out of the top cover on your pump and remove the cover. Look down in the pump at the end toward the back of the engine and you can see part of the gov. flyweight assembly. Watch that while someone turns the engine with a socket on the crankshaft and see if the gov weight assembly moves. If it does the pump drive-shaft is ok, if it dont move, your shaft is broken.
Here is a pic of what I'm talking about. The shiny thing in the red circle is part of what should move.
Thank you I will check this on Tuesday and let you know. I am jealous of the seats in your truck also. What year Ford did they come out of?
You need a little more information. When you reinstall the cover and if the lever is in the wrong position the engine will run away when started and can't be shut down without choking off its air supply. I'd pull the triangular plate on the passenger side of the pump, safer plus easier to see the shaft.
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Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.
You need a little more information. When you reinstall the cover and if the lever is in the wrong position the engine will run away when started and can't be shut down without choking off its air supply. I'd pull the triangular plate on the passenger side of the pump, safer plus easier to see the shaft.
Thank you for the information. It seems I have plenty to learn. I will have questions about replacing the pump also if the shaft is broken.
You need a little more information. When you reinstall the cover and if the lever is in the wrong position the engine will run away when started and can't be shut down without choking off its air supply. I'd pull the triangular plate on the passenger side of the pump, safer plus easier to see the shaft.
The original problem is that it died and he can't get it to start, so I doubt it's going to run away before he finds and corrects the problem.
Each to his own, but its easier for me to just take the top cover off to see the gov weights. How can it be easier when you have to use a mirror and a flashlight to look in that little hole down on the side of the pump?? Plus when you take that triangle cover off, your going to drain all the fuel out of the pump and you don't have that mess or reprime when you take off the top cover.....
doob51, the above info is right about getting the FSS lever back in the right position, but it is very easy to hold it back with a piece of wire while you re-install the cover. Click on this link: http://diezelcrazeesidipage.homestea...mbly22-29.html and scroll down to page 28 & 29 to see how to shape the wire tool and re-install the cover. This is straight from the Navistar manual.
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1994 F-350 XLT Crewcab 7.3 IDI Turbo, 4x4, E40D Auto, King Ranch Leather Seats.
Turbo Outlet Mod/Diamond Eye 4" SS Exhaust, 6500 miles on WMO/RUG Blend. Pics
I'm well aware of both procedures. Point is, the OP up until now had no idea the engine could run away, and if he incorrectly installed the cover, then found his no start was due to something simple as a wiring problem, fixed it then fired it up, he'd be in a world of hurt, right? I never found it much of a challenge to lay a shop rag under the side cover to catch what little diesel runs out, check for rotation, then reinstall with no need to prime. Seems a safer and more foolproof route for a poster not used to working on pumps, as you said, to each his own.
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Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.
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