tryin to put the seal that goes on before the wheel bearing on the rear end the first seal that goes on before anything. i dont have a seal installer and need to figure out a way to sput it an anyone have any ideas?
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American by birth, Southern by the grace of God!
1991 F250 7.3l 200XXX extended cab long bed. 3.55's REDNECKED OUT!! 295/75/16 Bfg All Terrains 16 in billet rims. New front brake pads and rotors, rear shoes, glow plug controller, glow plugs, return line kit duralast batteries, mitubishi off set gear redution starter, altenator, valve cover seals, holley red pump,new injector pump, soon to be new injectors, new vacum pump. Removed soup bowl and drilled holes in air intake.
ok got the seal on think i destroyed the rubber all well have to wait till next pay day to fix. but the bearing goes on right after? the bearing doesnt sit right on the seal right. do i need to beat the bearing on or just slide it on, doe sit sit on a lip? im loking at the chilton manual and it says right after the bearing that the inner bearing cip goes in next thats just the one that goes into the back side of the hub right? because there isnt another one anywhere. Sorry would be asking thses quetsions but i pulled it apart in the form of shrapnal.
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American by birth, Southern by the grace of God!
1991 F250 7.3l 200XXX extended cab long bed. 3.55's REDNECKED OUT!! 295/75/16 Bfg All Terrains 16 in billet rims. New front brake pads and rotors, rear shoes, glow plug controller, glow plugs, return line kit duralast batteries, mitubishi off set gear redution starter, altenator, valve cover seals, holley red pump,new injector pump, soon to be new injectors, new vacum pump. Removed soup bowl and drilled holes in air intake.
how far back does that seal go right on the lip or all the way against the four bolts?
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American by birth, Southern by the grace of God!
1991 F250 7.3l 200XXX extended cab long bed. 3.55's REDNECKED OUT!! 295/75/16 Bfg All Terrains 16 in billet rims. New front brake pads and rotors, rear shoes, glow plug controller, glow plugs, return line kit duralast batteries, mitubishi off set gear redution starter, altenator, valve cover seals, holley red pump,new injector pump, soon to be new injectors, new vacum pump. Removed soup bowl and drilled holes in air intake.
ok got the seal on forgot the beaing greese and is the a gasket for teh rear pumkin or just use silicone?
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American by birth, Southern by the grace of God!
1991 F250 7.3l 200XXX extended cab long bed. 3.55's REDNECKED OUT!! 295/75/16 Bfg All Terrains 16 in billet rims. New front brake pads and rotors, rear shoes, glow plug controller, glow plugs, return line kit duralast batteries, mitubishi off set gear redution starter, altenator, valve cover seals, holley red pump,new injector pump, soon to be new injectors, new vacum pump. Removed soup bowl and drilled holes in air intake.
Oil bath bearings do not need to be greased before installing, that is an old wifes tale and I can tell you for a fact that grease can cause bearing failure due to the fact that it can and has stopped oil from reaching the bearing, don't ask me how I know how I know this. Before installing the bearing I always dip the bearing in rear end oil and then install. Now I know I have opened up a big debate............ Jim
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<font color="blue">[b]93-F250 (Super Duty), Extended cab, Long Bed, XLT, Gray & Black, 7.3L, New Injector Pump, New Injectors 4X4, ZF5 5 speed trany, 4.10 gears Limted Slip.</font>
This is off the topic a bit but, is there anyway to drain the rear end oil without taking the cover off?? And I silicone will work fine. On the rear bearings I always put a normal about of grease on them even though they are oiled with rear end fluid, but that's just me.
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1992 ford-250 4x4 supercab diesel straigh drive almost everything is original. 265,000 miles, just got this truck. I don't think the previous owner fixed a thing. Items replaced/repair so far: wiper motor, automatic locking hubs(they were lock all the time and installed WARN manual hubs, repaired door hinges, all tie-rod ends, drivers side window motor, new parking brake cable, 8 new glow plugs, LUK solid flywheel, all new u-joints, new fuel pump and the list of needed repair is endless...
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tryin to put the seal that goes on before the wheel bearing on the rear end the first seal that goes on before anything.
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You ARE talking about the wheel HUB am I correct? The seal is the LAST thing that goes on before you put the hub on the spindle. Is this what you meant? I have to admit, sometimes your posts are a challenge to decode! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]
lol yes i know but no its the first seal to go on. it has orange all aaround the outside edge of it thats the best way i can describe it. how many quarts of rear end lube do i put in. i bout 140 thats what the guy at the parts store told me is this right?
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American by birth, Southern by the grace of God!
1991 F250 7.3l 200XXX extended cab long bed. 3.55's REDNECKED OUT!! 295/75/16 Bfg All Terrains 16 in billet rims. New front brake pads and rotors, rear shoes, glow plug controller, glow plugs, return line kit duralast batteries, mitubishi off set gear redution starter, altenator, valve cover seals, holley red pump,new injector pump, soon to be new injectors, new vacum pump. Removed soup bowl and drilled holes in air intake.
does it go in the hub or what? i thought you just tapped it in on the sxle tube infront of the brake assembly. goes in just before the inner bearing its calle dthe hub oil seal. the directions with the seal said put it on the shaft. im still trying to figure out why the axle just pulled out of there.
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American by birth, Southern by the grace of God!
1991 F250 7.3l 200XXX extended cab long bed. 3.55's REDNECKED OUT!! 295/75/16 Bfg All Terrains 16 in billet rims. New front brake pads and rotors, rear shoes, glow plug controller, glow plugs, return line kit duralast batteries, mitubishi off set gear redution starter, altenator, valve cover seals, holley red pump,new injector pump, soon to be new injectors, new vacum pump. Removed soup bowl and drilled holes in air intake.
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