i have a 4x4 93 F350 single wheel one ton, with a 5 speed and factory turbo, whould love to make a lil badass idi, i have already turned the fuel up just a hair, but i dont have gauges yet so i didnt want to go wild with it without a pyro, the two piece flywheel came apart on me already so i have a south bend in it know but besides the fuel and the clutch its stock, so any ideas would be great
I just did the ATS turbo upgrade on my truck and it made a big difference. I haven't pulled the 5er yet but it "feels' alot stronger. I called ATS and when I mentioned this site I got a discount. When you pull out the factory DP it will make you wonder how your truck ran. Here is the pictures of my mod. chuckster57/truck turbo upgrade - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting . You really should get gauges, at least the pyro if you are messing with the IP. BTW when I got the turbo put back in and just the DP, I took it around the block and it allmost broke traction.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD, LB, Dually,
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco fifth wheel 323 RKS, Robins 16K dual axis hitch
Apillar pod with: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost
Hypermax Cowl induction, Flex-A-Lite 26K tranny cooler w/fan
K&N air filter (we'll see in a million miles)
Tekonsha "prodigy" brake control
Train Horns: Pictures here
thanks for the pics. i had heard that there was no difference between the turbine housings, only the exhaust outlet. but i see that the turbine housing is bigger.
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-03 6.0 f350 lariat crew cab long box 4X4: SOLD!!!!
-new truck: 90 f350 xlt lariat crew cab long box 4X4, 7.3 n/a- will be adding boost asap, just have to rebuild the 093, soup bowl mod and k&n for now, e4od-soon to be zf5, posi 3.55s, headlight relay mod, poly front/ rear swaybar and track bar bushings, monroe reflex shocks, let the poweradding begin
-87 turbo t we4 w/ astro roof
-05 chevy uplander-momma's
Get a pyro and boost gauage ASAP. Otherwise, bad things could be happening and you not know it. A Moose IP and Injectors will get you more fuel than you can imagine.
Heath
__________________ 1986 F250HD 4x4 7.3L IDI '95 PSD front clip, '97 bed, T19, D60/10.25 with 3.55's. Rebuilt from the frame up. Banks Turbo, DPS IP & Stage 1's, Isspro TTM, Banks Exhaust, Boost gauge, Pyrometer, Precharged Coolant Filter, Holley Red Pump. 16.5 x 37 x 12.5 Goodyear Wrangler's, Air Horns. 6in lift, Fresh Paint, On-board Air. Revamped Interior. Rhino Liner.
you got the ats turbo upgrades--now get the boost and pyro--after they are hooked up--take the boost to 12 under full load--then turn the pump up till almost no smoke under full load--i just had the shop that built my pump--take her to the most with just slight smoke------now the only ques in my mind--how much more boost could be run with a intercooler----without hurting the engine---as i dont need my daily driver breaking----and ya---i can break the tires loose easily--wonder how many powers they would have sold had the turbos been turned up more?????????
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
you got the ats turbo upgrades--take the boost to 12 under full load--
I have read here and on other web sites that these IDI's only need 2-4 lbs of boost at sea level for full combustion and about 6-8 at 3500 ft. I can get 6 or 7 lbs most anytime I want it. How do you "turn up" the boost on these things?
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD, LB, Dually,
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco fifth wheel 323 RKS, Robins 16K dual axis hitch
Apillar pod with: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost
Hypermax Cowl induction, Flex-A-Lite 26K tranny cooler w/fan
K&N air filter (we'll see in a million miles)
Tekonsha "prodigy" brake control
Train Horns: Pictures here
Crank the fuel screw on the IP and shorten the wastegate rod (via the adjuster). That'll get you more boost. Be careful, don't get crazy. Watch the EGT's and Boost gauge closely. Some have completely disabled the wategate and drive by the boost/pyro gauges, but I'm a bit leary of that approach.
Heath
__________________ 1986 F250HD 4x4 7.3L IDI '95 PSD front clip, '97 bed, T19, D60/10.25 with 3.55's. Rebuilt from the frame up. Banks Turbo, DPS IP & Stage 1's, Isspro TTM, Banks Exhaust, Boost gauge, Pyrometer, Precharged Coolant Filter, Holley Red Pump. 16.5 x 37 x 12.5 Goodyear Wrangler's, Air Horns. 6in lift, Fresh Paint, On-board Air. Revamped Interior. Rhino Liner.
I have the page about messin with the IP saved on my 'puter. I am always on the look out for more POWER but not at the expense of MPG. I didn't know about screwing around with the actuator rod. But it seems like you can adjust when it will "open" based on how much pressure there is against the diaphram (if that makes sense) When I did the upgrade I did use an air hose with a blower tip to test the action and IIRC it took about 6 or 7 psi to make the "dash pot" move blowing through the tube that attaches to the compressor housing.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD, LB, Dually,
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco fifth wheel 323 RKS, Robins 16K dual axis hitch
Apillar pod with: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost
Hypermax Cowl induction, Flex-A-Lite 26K tranny cooler w/fan
K&N air filter (we'll see in a million miles)
Tekonsha "prodigy" brake control
Train Horns: Pictures here
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Turnin it up, please give me all ideas
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