universal joints...

[welder79]

What are some symotoms of bad uv's? How tough of a job is replacing them? Where's the best place to get them?

[DLSF350]

a squeak at very slow speeds in the early stages (almost like a brake squeal). when they get bad it will have a vibration and a clunk when put into gear as the excess clearance from the hammered needle bearings are taken up. Go under the truck and see if you can turn the driveshaft at all when it is on level ground, if the joints move at all the joints are bad. You can try greasing them with a grease gun if they have a zerk fitting, but you are only prolonging the inevitable. Changing them is fairly easy but you will need to hammer them out if you don't have a press or large shop vise. A good shop manual can walk you through the procedure or check the link-

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d8004ff83.jsp

There is a difference in quality of U joints! Spicer brand or TRW are the better ones, If the parts store you go to only has off-brand or imports shop somewhere else. cheap ones are $10-$15, good ones are $15-$20 but will last a lot longer and take more abuse. Also price out having them done at a driveshaft shop (yellow pages). The shop by me will install 2 new name brand joints and check the balance for $50.

[bgfire]

I have found that you will often hear the u-joint "pop" or make a high pitched click sound as you initially start moving. You can get under the vehicle and grab both yokes, and try turning them in opposite directions. If you feel any play, they are shot. This goes for the ones in the front axle as well.

I just got done replacing all three in my front Dana 50 axle, as well as the two in the front drive line. They aren't too bad if you have access to a hydraulic press, or a C-clamp style ball joint press. I have also used a vise, using one socket that was smaller than the bearing cup, and one that was larger to push the corresponding bearing cup into. It works, but I currently use the c-clamp ball joint press. Whatever you use, lube the daylights out of the them with WD-40 or something like that; it makes it a bit easier.

The joints on the Dana 50 (at least mine) have standard clips that hold them in place, as do the driveline u-joints. These will sometimes rust in place, and will break if you pull on them too hard. One trick I use is to forget about pliers or vice grips on these clips; I use two slotted screwdrivers instead. I hook the corner of the screw driver against the curve of the clip, and twist towards the center, using the yoke as leverage for the other side of the screwdriver blade. Use the other screwdriver to gently lift the clip up out of the body and towards the center once it starts to loosen. They usually pop right out.

The U-joints on the Dana 60 are a little different style, at least the ones I have seen. I have no knowledge of them, other than I have heard they are tough. A mechanic that I know said that he normally uses a torch to cut the X out of the center of the Dana 60 u-joint, then pushes each cup out individually.

I picked my U-joints up at Napa; about $25 a piece. Try to get them with zerk fittings if you can. The Napa here offered two grades: standard and premium. Get the best ones so that you don't have to replace them as often.

Hope this helps,

Bill

[Greenie]

I'd suggest bringing the old u-joints with you as there are a few different and sometimes subtle differences.

[R0oster06]

dont waste your time trying to "feel them" spend five min and oull your drive shafts. not only do they get loose with play they can get tight as an sob and you wont know till you pull them off. teh first time you do u joints allow atleast 3 hours to be on the safe side. the first time i did mine it took me about 3:20 and i did them on my buddies truck that is identical to mine and the second time it took me all of 30 or so min. take your time and if you beat them out dont bend the shaft hit the weld. the best way to do it if you dont have a vise or press is:


get 2 2x4's and support 2 sides of the u joint your trying to remove. pull the clips and hit the weld downward hit hit hit hitiht lol ect. flip it and do it again. then theyll come out. when you put the new ones in be careful as to keep all the little pins inside the cap in thier place or youll be sitting there awhile. That should be enough to get you though as i probibly missed something and youll figure it out. also i always carry 1 spare u joint in my rig because you never know.



-Jeremy Roooster!

[cdnsarguy]

Before you do any removal of the driveline mark all joints for correct realignment..........