OK...As i understand it the heads on these engines are identical..meaning you could swap them from side to side.
I replaced the passenger side head with a good passenger side head i got. The old was degrading some and there was a stuck and broken glowplug in it as well as a ruined injector seat. Prechambers looked eaten up a little too. It ran great however, this was more of a "hey i got it torn apart why not?" deal.
The old head had a special fitting in the front threaded hole. Theres two of them on either side im talking about the passenger front. The fitting had a hose on it that is tee'd in with the heater core OUT line. I am fairly sure its out- it goes to the bottom of the radiator.
The new head..has a plug in both holds whereas the old only had the rear hole plugged. The plug is in so tight and its such soft metal that i cannot get it out with anything i have here. My uncle MIGHT have something that will work but i doubt it.
My question-
Can i just plug the hose and leave the plug in the head? I dont know if its engine critical or not. Just to help heat up the cab right? It would make life so much easier for me if i can just plug it. All i could think of is that heating capacity in cab would be brought down a tad MAYBE?? That wouldnt explain why its on the OUT line.
Anthony: That line to the Rad is so it heats the area around the tranny cooler faster during cold weather, it bypasses the thermostat, it goes thru a small orfice about 3/32" at the Rad. Not good to block it off. Has the plug got a hex or square hole or square lug on it ?
Its just as stated above. Here in Ca we really don't need that bypass line so I really don't use it. Besides my trans oil doesn't go thru the lower rad tank. Standard trans trucks don't have this setup either. those square plugs in the head need a square socket that can be bought almost anywhere. That fitting you are talking about in the front location on the passenger side heads is the heater hot feed directly from the heads. Without it you have no heat in the cab. Not too good in yous state.
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89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....
OK i will try and get it out but its in there so good. as i sais i cant get it out no matter what i try.
Yeah its 20 degrees right now havent had any snow for a long time now we justgot about a half inch in 2 hours supposed to get 5-6 ID LIKE HEAT!
Bill...it is a square lug a 9/16 wrench fits snugly on it but i tried that on the old head and the metals so soft it just rounds it. WHAT DO I DOOOO!!! I dont have anything that fits. I was going to come to your shop today and drop ur stuff off but this happened. I will call you tomorrow if i get it working.
I do not use my temperature switch for the high idle/timing advance. Can i take that out and run the hose there and still have the same results? On the new head it has a plug but its easier to get to and i think i can get it out with a pipe wrench if its OK to do this.
I do not use my temperature switch for the high idle/timing advance.
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High idle? Is this automatic or manually activated...... (didn't know have a high idle or do they?) Buddy has a 92 7.3, so I think he'd like to know how to activate the high idle.
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1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed
They have a fast idle solenoid thats what i meant by high idle.
Its usually automatic but I and a few others have rigged theirs so that they can control when its on or off. I did it because my switch just melted the wires when it was plugged in.
Ok i might go do that within the hour tonight see if it works. I dont know if i can get enough leverage with a cheater bar or not. Ill try both of the plugs but can i tap into the one up by the thermostat housing where the temp switch goes? It is before the tstat and would still be hot water.
try to weld a stud to it if a good solid grade 80r 11 bolt is welded to it then it will turn just pack on the pounds and have a seat!!
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
[img]/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/frown.gif[/img] that isnt really economical for me right now
#1 its up in our barn and i want to get all the coolant and motor oil in at one time and have it running and idle for a while up there.
#2 im not great with small welds like bolts. Bigger stuff im good at but the location of this plug is terrible i dont know if i could even get the electrode in at a good angle.
wow do you have a screw extractor kit they have ones for stripped bolt heads use that and it will not round off the head any more if the pipe wrench dont work
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
not physically possible with the pipe wrench. I have a 10" pipe wrench i cant even get it in there some of the head castings are in the way and the shock tower is in the way. i have a 6 inch but its so small i dont think ,with the amount of force i was putting on it before, that i could get it out.
I still think i can get the top one thats in the head just behind the t-stat housing out with a 16 point socket. Will this have same effect?
I DO have a large (1/4 inch to about half inch in one easyout) screw extractor but it would be so much easier if i could use the top one...
Theres a diagram of the cooling paths around here somewhere i know i printed it out but i cant find it. Its in the TDS gallery but thats down. Tom- think you could email it to me? Anthonyhbasinger@gmail.com
As ICAN said a four point socket is best but one of these will usually do the trick without rounding it off. It will allow you to get a good sized cheater bar on it. If you soak it down with some good penetrating oil for a while it may help also.
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1988 F350 CC 4x4 SRW, 7.3 Banks non-wastegated turbo, C6 w/ HD torque converter, Tru-Cool 4590 trans cooler, Highjacker 'softride' 4" lift, pre/post luber, coolant filter, Racor fuel filter/separator, pyro and boost gauges, Progressive 16x8 wheels, 285-75x16 rubber, 3" downpipe into 4" straight pipe over the rear axle and into 5" SS tip. 1994 Alpenlite 33' 5th wheel trailer
i have some eight points but the biggest i have is half inch....i got a sears craftsman gift card for christmas..maybe i try and go find a 9/16 4 point socket.
sorry anthony my low budget google site is excedeing its bandwith now
heres the link to the page its coolant flow im now searching my junk for the original http://oldforddiesels.googlepages.com/diagrams
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, 3:73 dana 80 rear, srw, dana 50 front, heavy duty leaf springs, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, 32" steering tires all around, ac power converter,jeep bucket seats, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, 2 trucklight worklights on front stake pocket each side,high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk