OK so i been messin with this truck because the voltage keeps running up to 18v while @ 2000RPM+ . It's not the voltage regulator , and its not a bad dash-volt meter , as ive checked the voltage under the hood .
The pan the voltage regulator is mounted on is kinda loose so i thought maybe a ground was failing . So i ran a ground wire from one of the bolts holding the regulator right to the NEG battery terminal .
Now my volts dont spike like that , but my batter light is on in the cab . Still seems like its charging , any idea what could be going on?
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1988 F-350 frame -- 90' E4od and 7.3 motor 130K -- 90'-95' Body paionted -- New Injection pump professionaly timed ,injector installation kit,Injectors - rear bearings in&out+seals - rear drive shaft /yoke-U-joints- controller/relay- glow plugs- drums- brake pads all around- power steering box- installed used fan clutch & blades- Installed used steering column with cruise - 2 new batteries- rear leaf springs- voltage regulator - Block heater/ pump(used)- used front tank (in perfect condition)- tranny cooling lines
If your voltage is at 18, then most likely your regulator is not grounded properly. A voltage drop test will reveal this. You could also have a bad regulator or a rotor shorting, winding to winding, with higher rpm.
If your idiot light doesn't go out and the alternator is still charging normally, then most probably the white/black wire is open between the alternator and the regulator. The other cause could be a bad regulator.
The best solution for these trucks is a 3G alternator, used on later model vehicles.
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alternator doctor
89 f-350 XLT cc, 4.10, E4OD, Banks Shift Comm. Warren reman. 7.3, US Gears Ex. Brake
No, no, do not assume, get a voltmeter, put the meter leads anywhere, the battery posts would be nice,!
Measure the voltage, don't believe the meter, if you truly had 18VDC, you would boil the batteries dry, and fry light bulbs.
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'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
No, no, do not assume, get a voltmeter, put the meter leads anywhere, the battery posts would be nice,!
Measure the voltage, don't believe the meter, if you truly had 18VDC, you would boil the batteries dry, and fry light bulbs.
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Like I said , I tested with a volt meter.......it's at 18 . It was like that for about a month my batteries are already kinda ****ty , never fried a bulb though .
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1988 F-350 frame -- 90' E4od and 7.3 motor 130K -- 90'-95' Body paionted -- New Injection pump professionaly timed ,injector installation kit,Injectors - rear bearings in&out+seals - rear drive shaft /yoke-U-joints- controller/relay- glow plugs- drums- brake pads all around- power steering box- installed used fan clutch & blades- Installed used steering column with cruise - 2 new batteries- rear leaf springs- voltage regulator - Block heater/ pump(used)- used front tank (in perfect condition)- tranny cooling lines
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You could also have a bad regulator or a rotor shorting, winding to winding, with higher rpm.
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What do you mean a rotor shorting?
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1988 F-350 frame -- 90' E4od and 7.3 motor 130K -- 90'-95' Body paionted -- New Injection pump professionaly timed ,injector installation kit,Injectors - rear bearings in&out+seals - rear drive shaft /yoke-U-joints- controller/relay- glow plugs- drums- brake pads all around- power steering box- installed used fan clutch & blades- Installed used steering column with cruise - 2 new batteries- rear leaf springs- voltage regulator - Block heater/ pump(used)- used front tank (in perfect condition)- tranny cooling lines
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