a shop is going to give me a price on a turboed 7.3 IDI. I now have an ATS turbo and was wondering what opinions TDS members have on getting this engine. Are these engines durable and how many trouble free miles do they deliever. Any opinions are certainly welcome.
Thanks
__________________
Sold! 1986 F-350 XLT, Crewcab 4x4, converted to Dually, AT, Axle 39, 3.55 ratio, 7500lbs empty, aluminium wheels, K&N filter, rebuilt IP, and injectors, tach, trans oil temp gauge, chrome headers 2-1/2" exhaust to glasspacks to Magnaflow to 4" single, new headgaskets, new radiator, Mitsubishi starter, Big alternator, Big batteries, Racor R26S water seperator, Folding gooseneck hitch. 97 Taurus electric arm chair front seats, PW, PDL, using Power Service additive.
New Truck. 2005 Dodge 2wd dually, 6 speed, gets 15 mpg with 4000 lb camper and pulls any hill easily!
i would rather have the 6.9l with the 7.3 glow system. it is the same motor minus the big C word. will last twice as long and is less likely to have the "pits"
I would sleeve all 8 cylinders so it should not cavitate, right? Same engine, everything should bolt up?
__________________
Sold! 1986 F-350 XLT, Crewcab 4x4, converted to Dually, AT, Axle 39, 3.55 ratio, 7500lbs empty, aluminium wheels, K&N filter, rebuilt IP, and injectors, tach, trans oil temp gauge, chrome headers 2-1/2" exhaust to glasspacks to Magnaflow to 4" single, new headgaskets, new radiator, Mitsubishi starter, Big alternator, Big batteries, Racor R26S water seperator, Folding gooseneck hitch. 97 Taurus electric arm chair front seats, PW, PDL, using Power Service additive.
New Truck. 2005 Dodge 2wd dually, 6 speed, gets 15 mpg with 4000 lb camper and pulls any hill easily!
In my opinion, the best way to go if sleeving would be to sleeve a 7.3 block to 6.9 bore diameter. This would eliminate cavitation and retain the big head bolts and other 7.3 goods.
__________________
Neal in MN
2005 F350 4x4 Crew Cab, short bed.
1980 Mercedes 300D
Sold - 1990 F350 [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
Chum, buy a 6.9 long block, alot cheaper than a 7.3, have them add headstuds to the engine and there you go, a bullet proof combo, that you will have no worries with. Going with a 7.3 for an extra 20 cubes is not really worth the extra money. A properly set up 6.9 will run just as strong as any 7.3, plus you don't have to worry about sleeves, and all the other stuff. Add a 7.3 turbo IP, GP system and whatever else, but a 6.9 block is a known good. Scotty
Thanks, hoping I wasn't the only one thinking it. Fairly cheap to build/buy a 6.9. Add Headstuds and late 7.3 fuel system and man, you would have a sweet set up. Scotty
AutoForums.com is the premier network of enthusiast-owned
enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
We operate more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share
experiences and opinions as a community.