The factory setup has a water 'filter'- called a water seperator. I've never had any water come out of the bottom of the filters on trucks I've had for awhile, but a couple had water in the filter when I got them. Could have been from sitting for years.
So not quite sure on the effectiveness of the stock setup.
I'm sure if you dumped a measured amount of water in the tank, you'd never get the same amount in your water seperator- most of it probably makes it through.
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1994 Ford F250 4x4: 7.3L IDI factory turbo, supercab longbed, E4OD *DEAD*. ZF5 swap,Dana 60 swap, GM 14 bolt rear w/ 4.10s, 4" exhaust from stock downpipe back to a 5" stack, IP maxed=1100 degrees max pulling uphill, "modified" wastegate=11psi max,99+ F450SD cab/chassis leaf springs in rear
--motor/trans sold--
1989 Ford F350 4x4: 7.3L IDI banks turbo, crewcab longbed, 5-speed, 3.55s. 37" Military Wranglers. Originally a Centurion flatbed out of Oregon. NO rust.
2000 VW Jetta TDI = 48+mpg
1997 Dodge 3500: 2WD Cab & Chassis, 12V Cummins, 47RE Automatic, Dana 80, 194,000mi. Parting out.
1989 12V VE Cummins out of Chevy C60? at the machine shop...going into the Ford.
I am installing one next week so i am also interested. I plan to tap the plug at the water pump (3/8 npt), run it to the filter mounted on the alternator and then output to the overflow bottle
Ahh I see. I figured you already knew what the water seperator was lol.
I know people on here have done it. It'd not entirely neccessary, but it would make keeping the SCAs at a consistent level easier (precharged filters) and it would surely keep the coolant a little cleaner.
I figure if the big rigs have them, they must be effective if you want to get lots of life out of the motor.
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1994 Ford F250 4x4: 7.3L IDI factory turbo, supercab longbed, E4OD *DEAD*. ZF5 swap,Dana 60 swap, GM 14 bolt rear w/ 4.10s, 4" exhaust from stock downpipe back to a 5" stack, IP maxed=1100 degrees max pulling uphill, "modified" wastegate=11psi max,99+ F450SD cab/chassis leaf springs in rear
--motor/trans sold--
1989 Ford F350 4x4: 7.3L IDI banks turbo, crewcab longbed, 5-speed, 3.55s. 37" Military Wranglers. Originally a Centurion flatbed out of Oregon. NO rust.
2000 VW Jetta TDI = 48+mpg
1997 Dodge 3500: 2WD Cab & Chassis, 12V Cummins, 47RE Automatic, Dana 80, 194,000mi. Parting out.
1989 12V VE Cummins out of Chevy C60? at the machine shop...going into the Ford.
ok thanks.the reason im asking is i put a new rad/coolant this week.the hose going from the cab heater hose to the bottom right side of the rad was plugged with sand.the previous owner used swamp water in the rad.i was wondering if a coolant filter would work for my truck
A coolant filter system with SCA additives internally that automatically dispense into the coolant work fine to keep the level correct.
As for your swamp water problem I would definitely do a good cleaning with a product like fleetguard restore. Then have the kit do the rest of the work for you regarding SCA.
I will post a pic of the kit on my photo link so you can see what is involved for parts...
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 200K miles 01July09.
Toys: 2006 36' Triple E Embassy coach (powered by Cummins), 18' Sylvan Pro Fish with Mariner motors.
well theyre worth it im going to add one someday wheni get money and i get the other projects done lol
its not hard run it parallel to the heater core with t fittings
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88 F-250 body,550 rear frame setup, 7.3 idi, back up camera, 20$ wallyworld fog lamps, class 5 bumper hitch welded to frame and gusseted, brush guard with front mount hitch and off road lights, headache rack, 33" mudders, ac power converter,factory buckets from quadcab, power windows and locks now, deezee runningboards (cab only),cobra 29 cb w/ 102" whip, high lift jack behind seat, toolbox for the junk, visor, running lights, 6600 lbs with all my junk
i plan to add propane kit, stake body bed, gn hitch,western style mirrors, holset turbo 100mm intake, and a lot more
new motto: use common sense its a great gift
and if that dont work overkill it
Just thinking out loud here, but wouldn't it be better to have it in line with the heater core? This way you would get a better flow through it. If you had no heat in the cab, you would know it was plugged. On the other hand, if the heater was shut off, you would have any flow either. Most everyone uses thier heater within 6 months, so wouldn't that be enough to keep the levels in check?
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Early 99 F-250 Superduty X/C SB, 6 speed, South Bend Con OFE clutch, 4" turbo back exhaust, Ebpv Brake Mod, DIY Tymar, Hutch Mod, 2" leveling kit, 315/75/16's, DP tuner ( 60tow, 80econo, 120race, 140extreme), Warn premium hubs, Autometer pyro, boost, tranny, and fuel pressure gauges. AE if anyone in the area needs.
76' (updated) E series 24' Motorhome - 94' 7.3IDI w/ATS turbo (Brand spank'in new turbo spec motor ) ZF 5 speed, LUK clutch, Borg Warner 1356 transfercase, dana 60 front, 3.73 gears, 245/75/16, and its a 4x4 too!
i thought the same thing plus it would be simple to install.i was talking to a friend/mechanic today and he said i should have used green antifreeze and not the red because it will plug the system up and blow a head gasket or water pump in change of temp.i used preston extended life diesel red antifreeze(it said good for all diesel application) is this true and should i replace it??? 4 gallons of green antifreeze is $44(cheaper the a head gasket) has anybody had a problem with red antifreeze.
I just put in the same antifreeze, but it's purple. I am looking at putting a charged filter on due to the block I have is quite rusty, and would like to clean the system up without doing many flushes. Just wondering what is the best way to install, in line or parallel.
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Early 99 F-250 Superduty X/C SB, 6 speed, South Bend Con OFE clutch, 4" turbo back exhaust, Ebpv Brake Mod, DIY Tymar, Hutch Mod, 2" leveling kit, 315/75/16's, DP tuner ( 60tow, 80econo, 120race, 140extreme), Warn premium hubs, Autometer pyro, boost, tranny, and fuel pressure gauges. AE if anyone in the area needs.
76' (updated) E series 24' Motorhome - 94' 7.3IDI w/ATS turbo (Brand spank'in new turbo spec motor ) ZF 5 speed, LUK clutch, Borg Warner 1356 transfercase, dana 60 front, 3.73 gears, 245/75/16, and its a 4x4 too!
tramps I belive youre friend mistook you for using dexcool. Prestone HD Diesel antifreeze is just fine but I would srill check the SCAs though just to be sure of the level.
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1992 F-350 7.3 IDI Non-Turbo 4door LWB Dually
I just finished this with Peak and Prestone. Both of their HD extended antifreeze (Organic) will work fine in our Powerstrokes. No SCA required for 350,000 miles
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) ZF 5 speed, LUK clutch, Borg Warner 1356 transfercase, dana 60 front, 3.73 gears, 245/75/16, and its a 4x4 too!
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