I would like to get a 4" lift kit with replacement front and rear springs but I can't justify the extra $600 for rear springs for a grand total of $1200 and I dont really have the money. So, what is this axle wrap I hear about with rear blocks and how will it affect me for $600 less? Thanks for all the help.
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Jimmy C.
89 F350 7.3 IDI Diesel, 110,000 miles, Black and silver, single cab long. 4x4 XLT Lariat. 5 Speed Manual, very clean truck. Banks sidewinder kit, 4" dual stainless magnaflow exhaust, 4" skyjacker suspension kit with rear add leafs. Chrome Pro Comp wheels, 35" Pro Comp Mud Terrains.
I have a rear block on my truck and I dont have any problem. If you drive your truck like most people and occasionally wheel on the weekends you will not have a problem with a lift block
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99 f-250 powerstroke XLT auto 4X4 35" pro comps, Dp-tuner 80 econ tune
Axle wrap is when the axle actually rotates forward (or backward) esentially "wrapping" itself in the springs. You get this under load conditions, ie. sled pulling or HEAVY towing. Lift blocks increase the axle wrap effect, I dont know the technical aspect of this, but I guess it is just because your adding distance between the spring, and axle itself. I cant list the pros and cons for your specific application, but for an example if you do sled pullin, it could actually break loose and do lotsa damage! besides that if you do quite a bit of heavy towing, it'll weak'n the u bolt's over time and eventually break that way. How do you acctually use your truck?
Where the heck r u getting ur lift from??? 600 seems way to high for 4 inch rear lift springs!
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My truck
* 1992 F-250 supercab XLT 4x4 7.3 auto 3.55 open rear 170K miles, Westin Nerf bars, Silvania Silverstar headlight bulbs (VERY NICE!) Mile Marker SS hubs, piped, cranked and cut! Dimondplate toolbox, Pioneer cd player. And 16-18MPG backroad/town/highway driving!
Friends truck
* 1988 (originaly) F-250 regular cab 7.3 C-6 auto 4x4 4.11 posi rear.
Custom mods: Dana 60 front, ZF-5speed, Banks Turbo kit with Boost, Pyro, and Oil Temp, F-350 Badging, 93 front clip, F-150 Lightning seats (oh those are nice seats!) CD Player, 2 10" subs, custom 4 inch exhaust, soon to be 5" stacks! Turned up IP
Ford makes it, International shakes it!
If you are short of money, why not just run it stock.
If you have a lot of money, keep your money and run it stock.
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'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
Well unless you know how to fit 35s with my stock setup without stuffing the wheel wells let me know, as far as what im doing with the truck, maybe light towing rarely, more of a daily driver mostly and I think its like $400-$450 more but then it like doubles the shipping so over it goes from like 600 something to like 1200 something.
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Jimmy C.
89 F350 7.3 IDI Diesel, 110,000 miles, Black and silver, single cab long. 4x4 XLT Lariat. 5 Speed Manual, very clean truck. Banks sidewinder kit, 4" dual stainless magnaflow exhaust, 4" skyjacker suspension kit with rear add leafs. Chrome Pro Comp wheels, 35" Pro Comp Mud Terrains.
It has to do with the physics of torque, fulcrum and pivot and much too difficult to explain on here. Just get a set of traction bars to limit the wrap-up. Go to this guys site. He has a good article on building traction bars. http://www.dzljim.com/ or they can be bought at places like www.summitracing.com OG
Per Arizona Driveline:
Axle wrap is the rotation of an axle opposite the circular torque created by acceleration. Axle wrap is normally a vehicles problem caused by soft or worn out springs. Axle wrap is one of the major drive shaft breakage problems in lifted vehicles and can be cured usually by ladder bars or traction bars that prevent the axle from rotating. If the axle rotates too much, the pinion yoke and the drive shaft yoke will hit and pry themselves out of position. That is when people say, "I keep throwing u-joints." People say the same thing when the U-bolts are over-torqued.
Axle wrap in the rear is up. This means that when you accelerate the differential tends to twist upward. Most lifts come with shim blocks that twist the pinion up in order to reduce angles. However, the provided shim block does not solve all angle problems. You must know and adhere to the rules for using two u-joints drive shafts or three u-joint drive shafts. A two u-joint drive shaft: the angle at the top is equal to the bottom within 1-2 degrees. Three u-joint drive shaft: (One with a CV) All the angle at the top, and the angle at the rear u-joint is within 3 degrees of zero. In other words, the drive shaft is a straight line with the pinion within 3 degrees.
It is a little wordy, but that's the definition. I just bought a Skyjacker lift with front and rear springs. My personal opinion, it is worth the extra money.
Heath
__________________ 1986 F250HD 4x4 7.3L IDI '95 PSD front clip, '97 bed, T19, D60/10.25 with 3.55's. Rebuilt from the frame up. Banks Turbo, DPS IP & Stage 1's, Isspro TTM, Banks Exhaust, Boost gauge, Pyrometer, Precharged Coolant Filter, Holley Red Pump. 16.5 x 37 x 12.5 Goodyear Wrangler's, Air Horns. 6in lift, Fresh Paint, On-board Air. Revamped Interior. Rhino Liner.
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