The Wild Goose's Maiden Voyage woo-hoo

[wildgoose]

Thanks to all who responded to my red flare for help!

OK, I lied - - total trip was 638 miles rt. I love my truck! woo-hoo. we are definitely bonded and more importantly - it loves me too. Right into the heart of LA traffic my truck was awesome!

I do have issues tho - -
needs a new clutch (but I did learn to smoothly go into 3rd gear)
needs brakes
adjust the steering or ?,
and, of course, the missing muffler/exhaust system - -

other than that - - I have a truck that got 17 mpg round trip & one quart of Dello - which also included 2 hours of idling while we loaded the camper. I'm impressed to say the least, oh yeah, and keeping the speed at 70 - 75 mph except when I hit stop and go a couple of times.

Looks like I need to spend a lot of hours reading posts here at DieselStop.com to learn more about this engine/truck.

Wild Goose says thanks!

1990 Ford F350, 7.3 IDI, AMT, 4x4, 5 spd man, tow pkg, (don't have a clue what the rear end ratio is), alloy wheels, brand new tires, bed liner and tool box (which I just took off) - - missing muffler/exhaust system - needs: clutch, brakes and a new left side rear mirror. Other than that, its A+ - oh yeah, could use a new paint job but the body is in great shape - . believe this: I've had 2 offers to sell it for more than I paid. woo-hoo

[88beast]

im glad youre happy with your new toy

hope you have fun and she treats you well over the years

best of luck

[Bill1013]

Hey Goose: Wild that is. Happy to hear you made the trip OK. How loud was the exhaust?

Why do you say it needs a new clutch? Is it slipping when starting out or having trouble grinding gears when shifting. Maybe it just needs to have the air bled out of the slave cyl. -- check fluid level in the master clutch cyl. .

Check your glow plugs for brand name, use only Beru/Motorcraft ZD9, any other brand will give you trouble down the road, like Champion or Autolite.

You said it took a Qt. of oil, when is engine cold, oil level should check about a QT. low, the large volumne of oil in these engines will expand to the full level when HOT.

Brake pads on the front are easy to replace, replacing rear brakes shoes is almost a major job, they are self adjusting, but maybe only have to be adjusted manually.

Adjust steering: Best to have the front end aligned, might be worn parts there, like ball joints.

Just a few suggestions.

[wildgoose]

Thanks for your support! I think it is going to be a good arrangement - me and my truck!

[wildgoose]

Bill:

Thanks for all your excellent advice. FYI - I have 4 sons - they say I can "talk boy".
I've been around Ford mechanics most of my life. But not diesel - other than an old GM bus a few years ago. So - I really don't know what I am doing. but . . . I know I can do it.

To answer your questions:
1. exhaust noise - - I don't think it was any noisier than any other diesel pick-up on the road - - (and I'm around them alot. Lots of seniors here who pull 5th wheels.)

2. clutch. when I bought the truck, the seller said it was hard to start. One of my problems is I am short & the seat in the truck is old and saggy and doesn't sit up or forward enough for my heighth. So . . . I used a pillow behind my back - - now I am forward enough and have enough leg to get into the clutch. So now, I don't have any trouble getting the truck started. But that clutch has to be really tight on the floor board. Before the use of the pillow - I ground 3rd gear - if I could get it in at all - most times I just went from 2 to 4th gear. Once I put that pillow behind my back and was able to get the clutch tight to the floor board - I can shift smoothly now. and no grinding. The seller adjusted the clutch before I took possession - - but I wasn't there with him when he adjusted it - - don't you have to bleed the clutch ???
Oh the other thing about the clutch is - it has to be wayyyy out before the gear engages.

And I have a question re: shifting - - Shouldn't I be "down shifting" and use my gears
as I come to a stop? go around corners, etc? - (like I would in a car with a manual shift) - - because I can't get back into 3rd gear very easily from 4th - - I haven't been doing it.

3. Thanks for the info re: Glow Plugs. My son in UK mentioned I would need glow plugs. So I am grateful for brand name and the only one that works well. That is such important knowledge.

4. re: oil - - and the one quart. (blushing red right now) - - I couldn't find the dang dipstick - - well, no truck manual ok - - so I pulled the info up on the on-line local library repair manual. The picture showed the dipstick to the right of where you put the oil into the engine. (and again that heighth factor is an issue - and I'm standing on a box mind you) - - ok - - so I couldn't find the dipstick (laughable, I know) - - so looking at the oil gauge inside the truck I noticed that the needle went from pointing at the letter "o" in the word "Normal" to the space to the left of the letter "N" - - I thought it would be better to be safe than to be sorry. So with my new best friend - a step stool - I got the hood open and put in a quart of DELLO oil (I remembered Dello from the bus) in the engine. Yesterday I had a "visual instruction" from one of my neighbors on where the dipstick is - and we all laughed. Well, it was not where it was suppose to be. It was on the left side of the engine - not the right! What's a Goose to do?

5. Brakes: I am prone to pump them because I feel like they are too low - I get a lot more pedal when I do - and the brake fluid container is full . . . hmmmm. .????
So that is what led me to believe I needed a brake job.

6. Steering. When I test drove this truck - the steering was way loose - - a 10 to 2 (on the clock) whobble. The seller put a shim in it - - and the steering was OK after that. I'll have the mobile mechanic lookee.

I have a Mobile Mechanic (that I trust explicitely) - look at the truck. He was suppose to be here last Tue - - but Kevin gets busy - - and prior commitments. Anyway - we will connect one of these days.

I will mention all of these things to him and I know he won't cheat me. He's a good person.

I have one son who is a master mechanic - but he doesn't like Diesel - and . . . he lives in another state. I do ask his advice. I just figure the more I ask - the more I will know. Another has diesels and works on them - but he lives in another country. They certainly aren't very convenient, are they?

Many thanks - - and I will always welcome your advice - - it really helps. WildGoose



1990 Ford F350, 7.3 IDI, AMT, 4x4, 5 spd man, tow pkg, (don't have a clue what the rear end ratio is), alloy wheels, brand new tires, bed liner and tool box (which I just took off) - - missing muffler/exhaust system - needs: clutch, brakes and a new left side rear mirror. Other than that, its A+ - oh yeah, could use a new paint job but the body is in great shape - . believe this: I've had 2 offers to sell it for more than I paid. woo-hoo

[88beast]

for you having trouble reaching the pedals look into a captains chair they are way more adjustable and the ride will be a lot easier enjoy the trip as muchas the stay then its all fun no work

[88beast]

[quote=wildgoose;1502827]



1990 Ford F350, 7.3 IDI, AMT, 4x4, 5 spd man, tow pkg, (don't have a clue what the rear end ratio is), alloy wheels, brand new tires, bed liner and tool box (which I just took off) -
[quote=wildgoose;1502827]


with a tow package its probaly a 4.10 or 4.88
all you need to do is post your rpms at any mph (highway speed is best) and someone can calculate that
it should be 2k to 2500 if its 4.10 higher if 4.88 and if its a 3.54 itd be 1500 to 1800 (not positive on that if im wrong ill be corrected)

[ltaylor]

5. Brakes: I am prone to pump them because I feel like they are too low - I get a lot more pedal when I do - and the brake fluid container is full . . . hmmmm. .????
So that is what led me to believe I needed a brake job.

Thats pretty common in these trucks. Since the truck is new to you check everything out, and if all looks good try manually adjusting the rear brakes up.

[wildgoose]

88Beast:
Oops, I forgot to mention the RPM gauge isn't working. So I only have a good ear to hear- for now. I'll replace it or connect the wire (whichever comes first, eh?). Then I'll figure out the rear end ratio. Also, in the side pocket there are 2 gauges (unmounted of course, but new) EGR gauge and a Boost gauge - - I'll get those hooked up and mounted on the driver windshield frame. When the RPM gauge is installed, I'll post the info. Hey, thanks a bunch. I am so grateful for your input.
WildGoose

[wildgoose]

ltaylor:

Thank you. . for that specific suggestion - - I will do that.

I use to help with the brake jobs over the years -(as a Go-For) so I have a general idea of what needs to be done.

It makes me feel better having specific knowledge. Thanks bunches, lt.

WildGoose

[wildgoose]

Yeah 88B - - I was thinking along the same lines. Go to a wrecking yard and find some good bucket seats (something classy with electrics) and mount them. (well, maybe I won't do the mounting - - but I know a particular son - that could do that for me. Right? (yep it says that in the "Good Things to do for your Mother Manual" I know, I wrote the book ) Then I could build a console/box/cup holder for between the seats. Cover it with foam and fabric - - wayyyy cool.
I know it can be done.
I have 3 months to get the work done here - - then on to son #2 & have him put in the seats; build the box and install. Then I should be good to go! woo-hoo
Thanks for your support! I appreciate it. Wild Goose

[wildgoose]

ltaylor:
On the bottom of your posting you say:
4" lift 35" tires, 4.10 3" exhaust straight pipe,
ATS nwg turbo, rebuilt and balanced

That ATS turbo is what is on my BOT (Big Ole Truck)! what does "nwg" mean? Anything specific that I should know about this ATS turbo???

Another question: on your truck you have a 3" exhaust & on the one you rebuilt you have a 4" exhaust. Why the difference? Would the length be important to me as I need to add a muffler and exhaust?

Apparently, on the newer diesel trucks Exhaust Meters are stock - - obviously, not so, with these oldies (but goodies) - - some one told me that I should keep the EGR's at around 1100 (once I can read them on an installed Exhaust Meter) - - and that it had to do with the temperature at the end of the exhaust system. So - what happens if you go over 1100 - - ??? I think I don't entirely understand why we need to keep the Exhaust at a specific level - and what that does for/or to the engine???
Thanks, WildGoose

[Bill1013]

WG: EGT is Exhaust Gas Temprature, usually measured at the exhaust going into the turbo NOT at the end of the exhaust pipe, 1100* is about max high, the pistons start to melt at 1250* (I think that temp. is correct) nwg -- means a Non-Wastegated Turbo, that is the exhaust is not restrickted but flows straight out the pipe,some going to the turbo. A wgt (wastegated turbo) has a spring loaded valve of sorts in the exhaust pipe that holds back the exhaust pressure making more go to the turbo making it spoil up (turn) quicker (faster)at lower engine RPM, this creates higher cyl. temps a lot sooner when you punch the peddle to the metal. A diesel needs alot of intake air (turbo does it) and a large exhaust to get rid of it, 3" is sufficient, don't need a muffler or use a flow thru muffler as the turbo will cut down the noise considerably, if you punch it, it gets a little loud, sounds sweet tho. Don't punch it next to a cop car, might be a ticket. Info credit goes to alot of the TDS members. Learned a lot from them myself this past year. They will sure correct me if I'm wrong .

Bill

[88beast]

hey goose another way to tell the gear ratio is to put a bright sticker on the drive shaft directly to the drivers side and on the drivers rear tire on the bottom of the side wall put another dot

then count the times you see the dot on the drive shaft till the dot on the tire gets around to its start point

this will give you an aproxamate ratio

ex. 3.5 times is a 3.54
4 times is a 4.10
5 times is a 4.88

you will need a younger helper maybe the neighbor kid

[Bill1013]

WG: I ground 3rd gear - if I could get it in at all - most times I just went from 2 to 4th gear.

Thought of this later: The shifting fork may be wore causing this, or the syncronizer is worn. One or the other or both would have to be replaced. You can try double clutching it when going from 2nd to 3rd, that is, clutch down back up down again and shift. You more than likely have ZFS-5-42 trans. check the fluid level , there is a pipe plug on the drivers side half way up toward the engine, if oil runs out its full, takes Mercon ATF for oil. Another thing DON'T run on dry pavement in 4-wheel drive, hard on transfer case and tires, you can either leave front wheels locked in or unlocked, you should cycle them at least once a month, lock -- unlock to keep them lubed. The transfer case 4H -- 4L is it electronic shift, like Borg Warner, or manual shift ? Either one takes Mercon ATF for lube. Check the rear & front end diffs. for lube also, there is a plug on the side, takes a 3/8" rachet drive to remove, not sure of the lube, think it's 80-140 gear lube.. one heck of a lot to learn EH.