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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 12-28-2010, 09:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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winter oil

I need to do an oil change on my 7.3 in the morning what weight do you guys recommend? I will only run Rotella T is 15w-40 good all winter?
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:25 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Thats what I do...not saying that its right though. I like to keep at least a 40w in diesels
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin 007 View Post
Thats what I do...not saying that its right though. I like to keep at least a 40w in diesels
I was running 30w and I blew through 4 qts in the last two snow storms. the 30w gets to thin.
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thats my opinion. A 5w-40 would be GREAT for winter, but that would mean you have to switch to synthetic; its the only one out there that I know of.
I apologize in advance if this starts a synthetic debate!!
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1984 F-250 6.9, T-19, BW1345, BB code injectors, low mileage, manual Beru Glow Plugs, D70 rear end. solid truck.

1985 Toyota Landcruiser BJ60, 5 bearing cam 3B 4cyl diesel, H55F trans. Best rig I have ever owned.

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Old 12-28-2010, 09:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I use 10-30 Rottella when the temp gets below -35F consistantly....... but right now I have 15-40 with temps going between +8F down to -25F. I do have a block heater that comes on 2 hours before I go to town.....

For the life of my truck I have started it with or without a BH, fast idled for 5 minutes then drove her 300' to the highway and put it up to 60MPH/100KM for the 6 miles to town....... Been doing that 5 days a week for 13+ years summer and winter..
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I just thing 4 qt low is excessive consumption of oil
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Old 12-28-2010, 10:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdnsarguy View Post
I use 10-30 Rottella when the temp gets below -35F consistantly....... but right now I have 15-40 with temps going between +8F down to -25F. I do have a block heater that comes on 2 hours before I go to town.....

For the life of my truck I have started it with or without a BH, fast idled for 5 minutes then drove her 300' to the highway and put it up to 60MPH/100KM for the 6 miles to town....... Been doing that 5 days a week for 13+ years summer and winter..
I bet the oil temp on your commute dont even get up to 170 Degrees.
you have any oil samples of this engine? love to see them
usually takes 10/15 miles to get our engines up to operating temps.
Our radiators are overkill when the truck is empty, I have to cover the whole radiator to get some heat into the engine and Im in Miami!
I like the 5W30 diesel oil year round on my truck.
Block heater is super nice the way you have it working!


Javier
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1988 F250 dually All New 7.3 IDI, Banks Sidewinder.
C-6 with GearVendors overdrive 3.55 ring gear
Synthetic SAE 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy-Duty Motor Oil,
Evans NPG coolant.
AMSOIL ATF in the transmission, AMSOIL gear oil in the diff.
20MPG city 25/28 hwy
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Old 12-28-2010, 10:05 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Block heaters are very nice, where can you get your oil read?
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Old 12-28-2010, 10:15 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PabstBlueRibbon View Post
I was running 30w and I blew through 4 qts in the last two snow storms. the 30w gets to thin.
It is not the weight of the oil that causes excessive use of oil it is the condition of the engine.


Quote:
Tapered and Out-of-Round Cylinders
In slightly tapered and out-of-round cylinders, the oil can be controlled by
the pistons and rings. However, with increased taper and out-ofroundness,
satisfactory oil control becomes more difficult to maintain.
This is due to a combination of many factors. The increased piston
clearances permit the pistons to rock in the worn cylinders. While tilted
momentarily, an abnormally large volume of oil is permitted to enter on
one side of the piston. The rings, also tilted in the cylinder, permit oil to
enter on one side. Upon reversal of the piston on each stroke, some of
this oil is passed into the combustion chamber.
For each revolution of the crankshaft, the pistons make two strokes - one
up and one down. When an engine is running at 3000 R.P.M.
(approximately 60 miles per hour) the rings in tapered and out-of-round
cylinders are changing their size and shape 6000 times per minute. Consequently, at high speeds, the rings
may not have time to conform perfectly to all worn parts of the cylinders on every stroke. Whenever this occurs,

the engine consumes higher amounts of oil due to what is commonly referred to as oil pumping.


Quote:
Dirty Cooling Systems
Rust, scale, sediment or other formations in the water jacket and radiator, or
corrosion of the water distributing tube, will prevent a cooling system from
performing its duties efficiently. This is likely to cause cylinder distortion with a
direct loss of oil as mentioned in #7 and #8.
A defective cooling system causes overheating of the engine with the
possibility of developing localized hot spots in some of the cylinders. This may
also lead to scuffing and scoring of cylinders, pistons and rings which results
in high oil consumption.
Quote:
Pistons Rings Stuck in Grooves
Obviously, oil cannot be controlled by piston rings which are stuck in their grooves, so every effort should be
made to prevent rings from becoming stuck. First, they should be installed with sufficient side clearance to
enable them to remain free while the engine is working under load at normal operating temperatures. Second,
every precaution should be taken at the time of assembly to see that all parts of the engine are clean of any
dirt particles which might cause the rings to stick. Third, a good grade of oil should be used to lessen the
possibility of carbon or varnish. Fourth, the oil should be kept clean by regularly scheduled oil changes
and proper care of the oil filter. Fifth, every precaution should be taken to keep the engine from becoming
overheated from any cause.

Quote:
Fuel Dilution
If unburnt fuel is allowed to enter the lubrication system,
the oil will become thinner and more volatile. Both
will result in higher oil consumption . Excess fuel can
enter and mix with the oil via a leaking fuel injector, fuel
pump problem, restricted air intake or through

excessive idling
Hey I could be wrong, but you would have to prove it.


Javier
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1988 F250 dually All New 7.3 IDI, Banks Sidewinder.
C-6 with GearVendors overdrive 3.55 ring gear
Synthetic SAE 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy-Duty Motor Oil,
Evans NPG coolant.
AMSOIL ATF in the transmission, AMSOIL gear oil in the diff.
20MPG city 25/28 hwy
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Old 12-28-2010, 10:19 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PabstBlueRibbon View Post
Block heaters are very nice, where can you get your oil read?
I use oil analyzers
here is my 7.3 using 5W30 oil
1000 miles on new engine no oil change.
http://www.ranchopower.com/wp-conten...97442-Sev1.pdf

Javier
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1988 F250 dually All New 7.3 IDI, Banks Sidewinder.
C-6 with GearVendors overdrive 3.55 ring gear
Synthetic SAE 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy-Duty Motor Oil,
Evans NPG coolant.
AMSOIL ATF in the transmission, AMSOIL gear oil in the diff.
20MPG city 25/28 hwy
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:16 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I have a feeling I have alot of blow by and could use an engine overhaul
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Old 12-29-2010, 02:01 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IDIABUSE View Post
usually takes 10/15 miles to get our engines up to operating temps.
Our radiators are overkill when the truck is empty, I have to cover the whole radiator to get some heat into the engine and Im in Miami!
I like the 5W30 diesel oil year round on my truck.
Block heater is super nice the way you have it working!


Javier
Either something is wrong with your thermostat or you're talking strictly about oil temp. I just got back, started my truck cold and about 20F, had heat in the first mile and up to temp about 1.5 miles later. 2 miles to the freeway so about 0.5 miles at 65mph and I was fully up to temp. My cooling is completely stock. I'm also running a turbo which supposedly has a cooling effect on the EGT's when not under load which should, in theory at least, keep the engine a little cooler. I don't know what my oil temps are, an oil temp and a voltmeter are my next two gauge purchases. I find I start getting warm air out of the vents right about the time my cold advance kicks off, from there it's not much longer until I'm fully up to temp.
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1986 F350 Crew Cab 2wd SRW. 1991 7.3 IDI, T-19 4spd Sterling 10.25 4.10 rear, kingpin D60 4.10 front, 12" HD clutch. A Banks waste gated turbo. Midwest rebuilt IP turned up. AC Delco 6.5 GM 12V GP's, working great. Running W80-W85 high performance zero-gel black diesel! 4wd and dually conversion is done. Washer mod on the D60 kingpins eliminated the death wobble. Custom 10" C-channel front bumper with military D-rings front and rear. Pintle hitch, receiver hitch, and goose neck hitch. 7800lbs full of fuel....
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Old 12-29-2010, 02:04 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Pabst, I'm in Northeast Ohio so about the same outside temps as you. I run 15w40 Rotella T year round, I get it from a local trucking company in trade for computer maintenance. They run all there trucks on it year round and drive all over the country in all sorts of weather.
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1986 F350 Crew Cab 2wd SRW. 1991 7.3 IDI, T-19 4spd Sterling 10.25 4.10 rear, kingpin D60 4.10 front, 12" HD clutch. A Banks waste gated turbo. Midwest rebuilt IP turned up. AC Delco 6.5 GM 12V GP's, working great. Running W80-W85 high performance zero-gel black diesel! 4wd and dually conversion is done. Washer mod on the D60 kingpins eliminated the death wobble. Custom 10" C-channel front bumper with military D-rings front and rear. Pintle hitch, receiver hitch, and goose neck hitch. 7800lbs full of fuel....
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Old 12-29-2010, 02:10 AM   #14 (permalink)
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BTW IDIABUSE, interesting illustration of the cylinder taper. It's the exact opposite of what I've seen on long stroke engines when tearing down and measuring. Usually I seem to see more taper close to the crank or even worse double taper with the wear at half stroke, I've always felt that was due to rod angularity on a long stroke engine, it puts a good deal of side load on the piston. Another thing that can cause excessive oil consumption is a bad CDR. Mines bad and haven't had the time to order a new one, oil gets past it and up into the tube and is sucked into my turbo. I got around it with a cone shaped flow restricter that causes oil mist to drop out of suspension with the air stream, an idea I got from the breather vent on my 911 oil tank.
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1986 F350 Crew Cab 2wd SRW. 1991 7.3 IDI, T-19 4spd Sterling 10.25 4.10 rear, kingpin D60 4.10 front, 12" HD clutch. A Banks waste gated turbo. Midwest rebuilt IP turned up. AC Delco 6.5 GM 12V GP's, working great. Running W80-W85 high performance zero-gel black diesel! 4wd and dually conversion is done. Washer mod on the D60 kingpins eliminated the death wobble. Custom 10" C-channel front bumper with military D-rings front and rear. Pintle hitch, receiver hitch, and goose neck hitch. 7800lbs full of fuel....
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Old 12-29-2010, 06:31 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsr911 View Post
Either something is wrong with your thermostat or you're talking strictly about oil temp. I just got back, started my truck cold and about 20F, had heat in the first mile and up to temp about 1.5 miles later. 2 miles to the freeway so about 0.5 miles at 65mph and I was fully up to temp. My cooling is completely stock. I'm also running a turbo which supposedly has a cooling effect on the EGT's when not under load which should, in theory at least, keep the engine a little cooler. I don't know what my oil temps are, an oil temp and a voltmeter are my next two gauge purchases. I find I start getting warm air out of the vents right about the time my cold advance kicks off, from there it's not much longer until I'm fully up to temp.
I will agree with you, But I was thinking about full operating temperature.
unloaded temp will be lower than full 10,000 lb load.
Our trucks are made for towing and the radiator is a big sob, when empty the engine will see 190 max coolant temp when loaded and towing the coolant temp will go as high as your right foot will allow usually 240F before we get nervous and slow it down or pull over.

Everyone has different stages of condition with thier trucks so the differences between our trucks can vary alot.

I wish my heater worked! Im freezing down here in sunny So Florida

Javier
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1988 F250 dually All New 7.3 IDI, Banks Sidewinder.
C-6 with GearVendors overdrive 3.55 ring gear
Synthetic SAE 10W-30/SAE 30 Heavy-Duty Motor Oil,
Evans NPG coolant.
AMSOIL ATF in the transmission, AMSOIL gear oil in the diff.
20MPG city 25/28 hwy
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