won't start in the cold

[clorine12]

I just bought a 88 f-350 with a 7.3 turbo. I just bought the truck for the engine but I want to drive it for a couple months. I live in Northern Indiana and it gets cold and wont start. It will start everytime I have the truck plugged in. It just drains the batteries if its cold out. I checked the glow plugs with a test light. Is there a way to test the starter without taking it off of the truck. Can someone tell me how to test the glow plugs (I am not sure if I did it correctly) Does anyone have any other ideas on what it could be. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

[OkieGringo]

Well, there seems to be different opinions on how to "test" GPs. Here is one from DieselDon....
If you have 2 or more bad GPs, the controller may not cycle at all.

Two problems that occur with the solid state ( 1987 to 1994 IDI engines ) GP systems. If a GP burns out ( circuit resistance goes up ), the controller cycles the GPs at a faster rate which doesn't let them get to max operating temp. If 2 or more GPs fail, the controller may not cycle the GPs at all ( very rapid or no clicking heard ). When you check the GPs, use an ohmmeter. A high resistance ( not necessarily burned out ) GP can cause circuit resistance to go up and the controller will then cycle the GPs too fast. You probably will not find this problem with a test light. Resistance spec for GPs = .5 to 1 ohm cold. Second problem. A poor controller ground ( black wire attached to valve cover stud ) will cause the controller to leave the GPs on longer, often damaging or failing them. If you are having mulitple GP failures, I would check closely the controller ground. Now the confusing part. Bad ground --> longer GP on time ( slower cycling ). Burned out GPs --> faster cycling If you have both situations, it may appear that the controller is cycling the GPs at the proper rate. Bad ground slows it up while the burned GPs speed it up ---> normal cycling. The system acts/sounds like it's working normally, but you have a hard starting concern.
DieselDon

Glow plug torque is 12 ft lbs, I always use anti sieze on the threads.

The BuilderBob way is ...... hook test light to batt+ then touch the TL tip to the top of GP. Lights up, good. No light, bad.

But THE NUMBER ONE thing to check is, are ALL the GPs Motorcraft, made by BERU(which is stamped on the hex part of each GP). If they are not Motorcraft, GET THEM OUT OF THERE, if you still can. Go here and read.. http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/

[swhitney133]

I suggest getting yourself a engine manual for $15.00 that will have ip replacement, gp, gpm(glow plug module)checking of functions, and a whole bunch of other useful information. I go to my main library here in town and get on Mitchell's On-Demand and print out any info I need for my vechile. If I had a scanner I would send you the diagnostics for the gpm and glow plug testing. A quick test for the gp's is to take a test light to each unplugged gp and see if it lights up but I have found burnt gp's after this basic test. Once your engine starts again take a ohms meter to each gp and check the resistance it should get higher as the engine warms up to operating temperature. There's a lot to check for with a no start cold engine. First off is the fss working, if not check the temp sensor which controls it, gp's of course, but I think it is your gpm. I just replaced mine for $115. Mine went bad by shorting out and totally drained my charging system. So if your batteries are discharging then I would pigtail between the a and f on the disconnected connector from the voltage regulator for a few seconds and see if your voltage is at around 14.4 for your charinging system if not disconnect the two power feed wires at the gpm and check again this will determine if the gpm is shorted out.

[BuilderBob]

[ QUOTE ]
The BuilderBob way is ...... hook test light to batt+ then touch the TL tip to the top of GP. Lights up, good. No light, bad.


[/ QUOTE ]

Not correct, the method desribed is the FORD way!!!!
Directly out of the Ford Technical Manual

The Ohmmeter method has no written or prescribed method, it has been authored by no one. Just a wild guess, and not based on fact.

[Coldstart]

I live in Fairbanks AK and have the same truck so I may be able to help. Every time I leave it outside and have to start it when it is cold it's an ordeal. It has to be preheated for at least four hours. I believe technique is a factor as well. Pump the throttle once so the control system can do its thing and no matter what do not pump the throttle again.
Hope this helps.

[OkieGringo]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
The BuilderBob way is ...... hook test light to batt+ then touch the TL tip to the top of GP. Lights up, good. No light, bad.


[/ QUOTE ]

Not correct, the method desribed is the FORD way!!!!
Directly out of the Ford Technical Manual

The Ohmmeter method has no written or prescribed method, it has been authored by no one. Just a wild guess, and not based on fact.

[/ QUOTE ]

BB, you're getting a little "touchie" on me [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif[/img]. Please put your gun away [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif[/img]. I gave you the "credit" for the "Ford way" and gave the man the way we Dumbies do it. Me personally, I do it both ways and will be checking my GPs here soon, cuz the engine is taking a little too many rpm to fire lately. But after 4 yrs on the Beru/Motorcrafts they might be due/giving up the ghost. They've got lotsa cold starts under their belts. I'll tell you if the Ohm values have gone up or not. Oh, just because "ford" wrote it, it doesn't mean it's the ONLY way. Ford might just have done it the easy way and charge the customer for the hard more costly way? Naw, they wouldn't do that to a customer. Just because the vom way can't be found easily, doesn't mean it doesn't exist. I'll bet you still believe the world is flat [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]. I better go get my body armor on and board up the windows. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]OkieGringo