won't start unless plugged in

[cloutierthedj]

I have a 1990 F-350 Crew Cab dually with 75,000 miles. Within the past 6 months I have installed new glow plugs, glow plug solenoid, glow plug controller, had the IP rebuilt, transmission flushed. I'm having 2 problems... 1) The truck is garaged most of the time now,(I bought a 4cyl ranger to drive back and forth to work) however I start the dually once a week and drive it at least 30 miles, just to keep things moving. I went out and the WTS light just blinks, like the glow plugs aren't cycling. If I crank and crank it will finally start, however now that the Indiana temperatures are down around 20 degrees I can't do that for obvious reasons. Any help appreciated.
2) After the transmission was flushed (E4OD) it chatters between 3rd and OD. Fluid is clean and full. The transmission shop that flushed it said there was quite a bit of metal shavings in the pan. This is the second transmission in the truck since new. Is it time to have it rebuilt or is it something simple. Thanks for all suggestions.....

[KevinIH73IDI]

i have no clue about the trans, but definitely check the ground on your glowplug controller. when i put my new one i had the same problem not too long after and sure enough it was loose

[OkieGringo]

Did you remember to ground the GP Controller to the drivers side valve cover bolt? Use ONLY Motorcraft ZD-9 glow plugs in these engines. NEVER put Autolite glow plugs in or YOU WILL BE SORRY!!!! And you'll just have to spend ANOTHER $90.00 to go get the Motorcrafts!!!
If you have 2 or more bad GPs, the controller may not cycle at all.
Two problems that occur with the solid state ( 1987 to 1994 IDI engines ) GP systems. If a GP burns out ( circuit resistance goes up ), the controller cycles the GPs at a faster rate which doesn't let them get to max operating temp. If 2 or more GPs fail, the controller may not cycle the GPs at all ( very rapid or no clicking heard ). When you check the GPs, use an ohmmeter. A high resistance ( not necessarily burned out ) GP can cause circuit resistance to go up and the controller will then cycle the GPs too fast. You probably will not find this problem with a test light. Resistance spec for GPs = .5 to 1 ohm cold. Second problem. A poor controller ground ( black wire attached to valve cover stud ) will cause the controller to leave the GPs on longer, often damaging or failing them. If you are having mulitple GP failures, I would check closely the controller ground. Now the confusing part. Bad ground --> longer GP on time ( slower cycling ). Burned out GPs --> faster cycling If you have both situations, it may appear that the controller is cycling the GPs at the proper rate. Bad ground slows it up while the burned GPs speed it up ---> normal cycling. The system acts/sounds like it's working normally, but you have a hard starting concern.
Glow plug torque is 12 ft lbs, I always use anti sieze on the threads.
Now, for the E4OD, Fluid level is VERY important on these trannies. They are VERY pickey. No more than +/- 1/2 qt. Having a transmission shop change the fluid is like asking a fox to take care of your chickens, especially on a E4pos. All they hafta do is adjust the line pressure screw a little bit while they have the pan off and you'll be back to have them replace it. Have you tried to adjust the FIPL on the IP? There are 4 sensors that MUST BE adjusted almost perfectly for the computer to make the shifts at the right times. If you trust the trans shop, print out the following info and take it to them and have them adjust the line pressure screw according to the specs given.
Electronic Pressure Controler

Line pressure on the E4OD is critical and too much will quickly destroy it.
There is a "main line tap" in which you can hook up a gauge. The "tap" is on the driver's side, forward of the MLPS by about 4 inches.
Gear Range-------- at Idle Hot-----------at Stall Hot
-----------------------------------------------------
Park&Neutral--------55-70 PSI--------------N/A-------
-----------------------------------------------------
Reverse-------------75-130 PSI-----------240-265 PSI
-----------------------------------------------------
Drive---------------55-70 PSI------------156-174 PSI
-----------------------------------------------------
2nd-----------------55-70 PSI------------156-174 PSI
-----------------------------------------------------
1st----------------75-99 PSI------------157-186 PSI

IMPORTANT
If you suspect a line pressure problem, make sure you hook up a gauge and check line pressure.
Once you've verified line rise, you know that the TPS/FIPL, EPC Solenoid, controller, and all wires and connections between them are good. Takes about 10 to 15 minutes to do but can save hours of diagnostic time.

NOTE
On early model controllers, once this transmission shifts to 3rd gear and the LU clutch applies, line pressure will cut back to base line and you will not get line rise unless you go to passing gear. This is a normal condition.

Remove the trans. pan and look at underside of the solenoid pack. You'll see a solenoid with either a socket head screw or a torx screw protruding from the bottom. Clockwise increases line pressure and counterclockwise decreases line pressure. Be very cautious with this adjustment. No more than 1/8 of a turn. There is a pressure tap on the left (driver's) side of the transmission. This is not a bolt but rather a plug. This same plug may also be replaced with a sensor for a trans. temp. gauge
--mlps--manual lever position sensor--on left side of trans--shift lever goes through this sensor switch......

OkieGringo

[Mr_Roboto]

Okie, are you saying there's such a thing as dishonest mechanics??!!

Usually the ones that do fluid changes are the most junior workers, and are the most likely to screw something up. (I started working as a professional mechanic at 16, and did a LOT of fluid changes).

[NGeorgiaTrucker]

Ground the GP controller directly to the ground on the battery. You shouldn't have any more ground problems.

[cloutierthedj]

I tried a ground wire from the GP controller to the neg post of one of the batteries, and basically the same thing happened. The wait to start light stays on for about 10 seconds, then the GP solenoid starts clicking on and off, the amp gauge drops up and down.. Any more suggestions...appreciated!

[Mr_Roboto]

[ QUOTE ]
I tried a ground wire from the GP controller to the neg post of one of the batteries, and basically the same thing happened. The wait to start light stays on for about 10 seconds, then the GP solenoid starts clicking on and off, the amp gauge drops up and down.. Any more suggestions...appreciated!

[/ QUOTE ]

That describes proper operation. On for a number of seconds, then cycles on and off for a number of seconds.

How long are you waiting to crank the motor? By the time the controller starts cycling on and off, the glow plugs are cooling down.

What brand of glow plugs did you install? Do you depress the gas pedal to set the high idle before cranking?

[cloutierthedj]

Sorry I should have been more specific.. I did depress the gas pedal before cranking, and as soon as the WTS light goes off I start cranking. It is 28 degrees outside today and the truck was not plugged in overnight. Shouldn't the GP's warm for more than 8-10 seconds? I'll be shunned for this but the glow plugs in the truck are Autolite. I tested the GP's and I have one out,(I used a test light I left my amp meter at work). Should I order the motorcraft gp's or wait until the autolites go out completely?

[GuitarDan]

Man, I'd get Motorcraft/Beru plugs in there as soon as possible! You're risking having to pull the heads if you melt one of those Autolites and can't get the tip out! Cheap insurance to my way of thinking.

[Mr_Roboto]

We don't care what you use, it's your @$$.

Pull those Autolites post-haste, and install the proper glow plugs. My bet is your starting problems will be solved.

[Snotzalot]

Autolites have been known to be defective sooner than yours stopped working, get rid of them.

[waterdude]

[ QUOTE ]
Sorry I should have been more specific.. I'll be shunned for this but the glow plugs in the truck are Autolite. I tested the GP's and I have one out,(I used a test light I left my amp meter at work). Should I order the motorcraft gp's or wait until the autolites go out completely?

[/ QUOTE ]

No shunning, just do the right thing, remove the Autolites and replace with Beru and report back that your truck is starting again.

Our Ford GP controllers were designed with the Beru Motorcraft GP's as compatible plugs. Too bad that more stores sell Autolite than Beru GP's.

The fact that your truck starts right up when plugged in is a good sign, as it is not using the GP's to start with...

--Hugh

[cdnsarguy]

Be aware Autolites can swell and be a problem ..... so visit for some info before starting.

http://www.members.shaw.ca/k2pilot/