Yet more Glow Plug Troubleshooting - 1992 F250 IDI - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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7.3L IDI Diesels (Not Power Strokes) Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 7.3 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 02-27-2010, 01:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Yet more Glow Plug Troubleshooting - 1992 F250 IDI

OK, I have been limping along with no functional GP system for a couple of years and have finally decided to fix this if it kills me.

Today I have just replaced the GP controller and solenoid with a brand new unit from NAPA. I know this is good. The harness from the controller to each GP was replaced as well. I ohmed each GP, and each of them reads between 0.6 and 1.0 ohms. COntroller is grounded all the way back to the battery.

I ran a jumper from the battery to the small terminal that energizes the solenoid, and the the solenoid cycles about once/second. Glow plugs are not getting hot.

Any idea what could be causing this? Batteries are a little weak, but they still crank the engine. I don't think it is the batteries.

I read somewhere else that the plugs should ohm at 0.6 to 2.0 ohms. Is the fact that all of them are down around 0.6 enough resistance to make the controller cycle like this? Glow plugs are the only thing left to replace, but I wanted a second opinion before I spend another $100 on a set when they appear to be OK.
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Last edited by Burdizzo; 02-27-2010 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 02-27-2010, 04:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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you need to replace those plugs. You want btwn .5 and 1 ohms.
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Old 02-27-2010, 06:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Replaced the plugs. No dice.
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1992 F250 S/C XLT
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Bought it brand new in 1992. Fisher-Vincent Ford in Belton, TX
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Old 02-28-2010, 03:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You can take each plug out and use some jumper cables. Put the ground of the jumper cable to the bolt part of the plug, where you would put the wrench, and then touch the positive of the jumper cable to the connector of the plug for only a second. It should get real hot real quick. Set it down gently and go onto the next. This is what I've done in the past. If you have a good relay and box, it should click when you turn the key on to heat up the plugs. I had a bad mount where the relay sits. (it's the box that mounts to the head) I replaced the relay, still didn't fire up, replaced the box and cranked right up after replacing a few plugs. Hopes this helps a bit.
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Old 02-28-2010, 08:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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All the plugs are good.

I think I have it licked. I replaced the two yellow 10 gauge wires coming from the terminal on the left fender. The fusible link had burned out some time back, and I had made several attempts to replace it with limited success. However, there was still power on the hot side of the GPR. I assumed the circuit coming from the yellow wires was still good, but then I read somewhere else that these wires can build up resistance over time and cause weird things to happen (and the fusible link to blow continuously).

I replaced the entire length of wire with new fusible links from the fender to the GPR, and it seems to have solved the problem.
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1992 F250 S/C XLT
7.3L IDI, 5 SPD
321,000 miles
Bought it brand new in 1992. Fisher-Vincent Ford in Belton, TX
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