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Old 07-13-2011, 07:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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85 dually brake drum removal help

Got a 85 f350 dump 2WD. I wanted to check the rear brake system, but I cant get the drums off. PB blased em and beat on them for a while before i looked into my haynes manual. They made it sound like i needed to remove the axle shaft and hub assy first. Drums look to me like they should come off like a typical SRW drum, maybe i just need to beat on them some more? I believe the axle is a DRW Sterling 10.25. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
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Old 07-13-2011, 09:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Most likely the drum is mounted behind the hub, with the wheel studs running through both. I believe there are exceptions to this but not sure which cases.
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Old 07-13-2011, 11:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I am sure you have to pull the axles. Also back the brake shoes off with a brake spoon. I cannot count how many times that I have had customers bring a rig in that they couldn't remove the drums and it was because the shoes were hung in the groove in the drums and with a simple few turns of the adjusting wheel the drums came right off.
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Old 07-14-2011, 06:35 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Make sure you have removed the keepers off the studs. There are usually two and the drum should then slide off. There is no need to remove axle shafts if it it the full floating axle.
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Old 07-14-2011, 03:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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When you say "keepers" on the studs, do you mean like a thin push nut type deal? I dont recall seeing anything but i will check before i remove shafts. I have never removed full float shafts. Do I just need to remove the 8 or so bolts on the hub then slide it out? Then brake drum would be bolted on the inside to hub assy.? Speacial tools? Thanks for the help
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Old 07-14-2011, 03:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Any chance you can take some pics of what you have? Pics of the brake drum area and the pumpkin section will help us identify the axle and make it easier to help. You may have a one piece drum/hub assembly. In that case you need to remove the axle shafts and then the wheel bearings to be able to slide the hub and drum off. Also, in this case you'll need the proper socket to remove the wheel bearing nuts. Some of the older units use a 2 9/16" socket while others use a 4 or 6 prong socket. This is where pics help! Any reputable auto-parts store should have these sockets and help with which one you need.
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Old 07-14-2011, 05:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ill get some pics on here tomarrow afternoon,thanks
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Old 07-15-2011, 04:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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here are those pics. sorry there not the best. it has 12 bolt cover with two on the driver side being studs. no 60,70,80 in the web casting like a Dana ID#. There is another plate/hub derectly behind the drum where the wheel studs go through. Any thoughts?
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Old 07-15-2011, 05:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Did you try backing off the shoes?
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Old 07-15-2011, 05:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
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yes, shoes are backed off. I will soak in oil and beat on them some more, but I would like to make sure there not bolted to the hub. we'll see.
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Old 07-15-2011, 05:51 PM   #11 (permalink)
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from your photos, it looks like mine does. The drum will slide off.
Problem is most likely they are "glued" to the hub.

Use a propane torch to heat the drum where the lug studs are. then spray a good amount of penetrating oil (Pb Blaster or Kroil) into the space where the lug studs come through the drum. then with a large flathead screwdriver, pry gently at the back of the drum against the backing plate. at the same time use a good hammer and hit the drum between the lug studs.
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Old 07-15-2011, 06:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
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sounds like a plan. Ill pull wheels off tomarrow and heavily soak it in PB overnite. then ill heat and beat. Thanks for all the help
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Old 07-15-2011, 09:21 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yup, definitely a Sterling rearend and the drums should slide off the hubs. Like it was said before, back the shoes off and lots of penetrating oil...and a big brass hammer!
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