Trying to get my 6.9 international step van back on the road after a couple years. Putting in new Napa batteries. Hooked the positive up first and went to connect the negatives. Sparking occurred on. I have the positive cable connecting to the positive post and then the first positive to the second positive. The negative is hooked to the negative post and then to the second negative post or at least I tried until the sparking. Do I have the battery connected wrong or is is there something else going on here?
If it is just a small spark, say the size of the spark from a spark plug, that is probably normal because the radio/clock and interior lights (if on) create a small load at all times. If it's big sparking...there is probably a short in your cables somewhere.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
That is why safety glasses should be worn, battery might explode. You can take a test light between the cable and the battery terminal and see if it lights and goes out, or stays dim. Anything other than going out indicates a constant drain on the battery. I have found that the test light may stay on dim due to the radio clock/memory battery, turn the radio on and off (test light still in circuit) and it should go out.
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The full loath honey, but to the hungry- even what is bitter tastes sweet.
Yes the test light stays on once touched to the neg post and clamped to the neg cable. I pulled all the fuses under the dash ( funny they squeezed it in -- considering the amount of room in the truck - I digress) but the light still stays on -- any hints on where to look next? There is no radio and all other items are off and fuses pulled -- something is drawing where is still a mystery.
Yes the test light stays on once touched to the neg post and clamped to the neg cable. I pulled all the fuses under the dash ( funny they squeezed it in -- considering the amount of room in the truck - I digress) but the light still stays on -- any hints on where to look next? There is no radio and all other items are off and fuses pulled -- something is drawing power from is a mystery.
I dont know if these will still operate without fuses: Key off and out of ignition..
1) Is your dome light on/ door open when you are checking this?
2) Hood light above engine?
3) Consider removing the fusible links one at a time, then look in repair manual wiring diagram to identify area.
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The full loath honey, but to the hungry- even what is bitter tastes sweet.
Never trust wire colors -- that's my lesson. Someone in the trucks past replaced the black ground lead to the solenoid with a red one. The batteries were being installed with the polarity reversed. When I turned them around things were great. You would think that the negative cable being connected to the chassis would be enough of a clue for me. The starter turned -- next I need to add some fuel.
I had to reinstall the tank -- it was out when I got the truck -- will I have a problem bleeding the system or do I need to?
My apologies -- I just assumed that the cable was black instead of red. The lead goes from the bottom pole of the solenoid to the negative clamp/post on one off the batteries.
If you're talking about the solenoid on the passenger side fender well, I say again, there's NO negative lead going to or from it.
Oops, I see it's a van so I can't say where it's mounted.
My truck is a 1985 international Grumman Olsen step van with a 6.9 international diesel. The lead does go from the solenoid to the negative post. The reverse was causing all the sparking which started this thread.
First I'd disconnect the glow plug relay so you're not cycling your GPs during this procedure. To bleed fuel system, remove the schrader valve core from the fuel filter header and crank engine until fuel runs out there, then reinstall the valve core. Then loosen all 8 injector lines at the injectors and crank with the throttle held wide open. Only crank for 10-20 secs at a time, then let the starter cool for a couple minutes. Do this until you start getting fuel wetness around the top of the injector line nuts, tighten them up as they begin to show fuel (some will get there faster than others). Once you have fuel at everything, reconnect your glow plug relay and attempt to start engine as normal. It might idle rough for a few minutes, but should clear out. Good luck.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Beru ZD1A glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
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battery ground sparks on hook up
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