What did you do to this engine?
You are surprised that there was not more damage!
__________________ Red 86 F250 Supercab XLT: Longbed, 6.9l, 4 speed with DNE-2 Overdrive, 2WD, 10.25 Sterling 4:11, Reclining Highback Captains chairs with arm-rest, Holly Red pump, push-button glowplugs, Racor 645 water separator with fuel heater, K&N Air Filter, Headlight Relay Upgrade, Fog Lights, lots of extra lights, Isspro EV series: Pyro, Oil Pressure, and Voltage in a Autometer 3 pod A-pillar. Bulldog Security System with remote entry. Offset Mirror Upgrade, Remote lube TOB. Road Watch System coming soon. PB PS PW PDL CC AC IW BOOB man - Brotherhood of Oil Burners
1995 Toyota Camry DX: 2.2L, Bolt-action 5-speed, AC, PS, PB, CC.
135,016 miles: Rear-ended and totaled by an uninsured kid having a temper-tantrum 1999 Rav4 AWD 5-speed, AC, PS, PB, CC, Sunroof.
i drove through a swamp and ingested quite a bit a water. then i drove it around for a year in that condition so i am suprised that it didn't do more damage. My buddy figures that the cylinder might be out of round a little bit because of the extra stess from the bent rod. Is that possible. And if so is there a way to find out with out me going out and having to buy a feeler gauge or micrometer. I'm going to get new piston rings and connecting rod and put motor back together. There is some rust in the other three cylinders but i'm gonna turn it upside down and clean it out with lots of diesel fuel and maybe a real fine sand paper.
hello there is no other way to check for out of round ans taper, other than a inside dia bore gage these are not costly around 35.00 for a set from 1.00 to 6.00 dia and a dial vernier caliper at a parts store will get you to within one one thousands of an inch (.oo1) ok? if the rod was bent and the wrist pin area of piston was cracked or broke it more than likely scraped up the wall some you can rent a flex hone a a auto parts stoe and clean up the cylinder this wont tru up the dia much but it will help check the dia and make sure your not going to have to use an oversive piston and ring set
If you're rebuilding your own engine, you better have your own micrometer and snap gauge set (or dial bore gauge like mentioned above, but that's more money). If you want your engine to last at all, you MUST check all of the clearances, and repair anything that's out of spec.
1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Wellman G088 glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
Take the block to a machine shop. Most will be able to measure the bore and tell you if it's okay. Also, you need to check crank journals, head condition, valve guides / seats, etc.
It's enough work to rebuild one of these, you may as well do it right. It really really REALLY sucks having to rebuild a motor you just worked on, trust me. And it's even worse when you're stuck by the side of the road because you did a half-***ed job of rebuilding. I know this from experience. It is not fun.
Just do it right. You'll be happy later.
BTW, pm me if you need a rod still. I have 7 good used ones. (had a set, but needed one to replace the bent one after ^....)
85 F250 4x4 w/ 6.9 diesel, ZF5 trans, custom wastegated turbo, rebuilt engine (twice) exhaust brake and lots of other stuff. Noisy, ugly and most of the time it even all works.
Any rod from either a 6.9 or 7.3 non turbo motor will work for you. They are exactlly the same part number. The piston is differant from these 2 motors. No cylinder is perfectly round. You can measure it down to the millionth and find it out of round. It all depends on where you want to stop the measurement. If its within 1/2 of a thousands I would say thats perfect. They don't come closer than that from the factory. You can look at the wear pattern and tell if its bad. Checking the crank is going to be the important area. Look at the bearing wear. If its worn off to copper on one side or the other you know which way the bend made it wear. The space between the rods on the crank is 0.012 to 0.024. The rod bearing on the crank is 2.5001 to 2.5016 wide. The running clearance on the rod bearing to crank is 0.0011 to 0.0036. The rod bolt torque is step one, 38 lbs. The step 2 is 51 lbs.
89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....