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Old 08-10-2005, 09:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Bleeding Clutch Master Cylinder

Hi guys.I've been lurking for a bit but this is my first post---
so bear with me if I screw up.
Have an 86 and the cracks on the firewall have been repaired, master cylinder reinstalled but can,t figure how to bleed it.
Anyone have any advice?

Thanks guys

Bill Gibson
Tees , alberta , Canada
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86 F250 bone stock 4x4 in Tremclad grey with rust accents.Used for pulling stock trailer with up to 50 sheep at a time and a flatdeck trailer pulling my antique Allis Chalmers tractors.
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Old 08-10-2005, 02:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Bleeding Clutch Master Cylinder

I was able to bleed a slave cylinder, by myself twice by filling the master, leaving the cover off the master and slowly and gently pumping the clutch pedal 8-10 times, then top off the master. I repeated this about 10 times and it worked. I did this on a '91 F350 and I also did this on a '96-'97 Corvette.
If you have a partner, you can bleed it as you would a brake wheel cylinder. Tim
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Old 08-10-2005, 02:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Bleeding Clutch Master Cylinder

I took the advice of someone on here the last time. Elevated the front end, push the clutch fork forward (into the slave cylinder) crack the bleeder. Once collapsed, tighten the bleeder screw and repeat. Took about 10 minutes which included climbing out from under the truck each time to top off the master cylinder. The master cylinder does not hold much fluid, so make sure to keep it full. About 4-5 times of doing this and your done, well at least if the bleeder screw isn't stripped as was the case in my first attempt, was even a new slave cylinder. Started thinking the person who posted this method of bleeding the system must be nuts! Then I realized the slave cylinder bleed screw was bad, replaced it (again) and 4 to 5 bleeding sessions as described and it was done. Elevating the front end puts the bleeder screw high so that the air moves toward it. Worked great.
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1987 F250 6.9 4X4 - T19 Trans, 4.10 Dana 60 Front/Ford 10.25 rear, Dual Rear Wheels, Carter P4594 electric fuel pump, Restrictive air filter opened up, Firewall repair kit installed, new clutch m/cyl and pedal bracket, bushings etc.,7.3 fuel filter conversion, Solid state controller OEM (new controller and Motorcraft GP's), Headlights converted to relay system with 65/100 Watt Cold Ice bulbs, Class V Hitch (10,000lb WC/15,000lb WD), Air Horns, Cadet 7' X 9' flat dump bed, 5 ton grainmaster dump hoist.
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Old 08-10-2005, 03:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Bleeding Clutch Master Cylinder

the ford manual states to open the bleeder screw, keep it open till you have a clean flow of brake fluid without any air bubbles. retighten the bleeder, and go into the cab of the truck. THEN slowly press the pedal to the floor. hold it there for 4-5 seconds, then with all your strength pull the pedal up as fast as you can. do this till the last bubbles exit the top of the master cylinder, or a solid pedal is felt. i usually do this till i can get it into reverse without grinding, then take it for a short trip. i have been doing this for years without fail. it only takes one man, and half an hour. the other option is to reverse bleed it with a Pheonix type pressure bleeder. i have also done it this way, but it seems to take longer than the way ford lists to doing it..
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Old 10-29-2005, 12:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Bleeding Clutch Master Cylinder

what happens when you have no bleeder screw?
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Old 10-29-2005, 06:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Bleeding Clutch Master Cylinder

Check for a small allen screw beside the line going into the slave cylinder. There has to be one or I would think bleeding air next to impossible! It should be on top when the cylinder is mounted to the trans.
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1987 F250 6.9 4X4 - T19 Trans, 4.10 Dana 60 Front/Ford 10.25 rear, Dual Rear Wheels, Carter P4594 electric fuel pump, Restrictive air filter opened up, Firewall repair kit installed, new clutch m/cyl and pedal bracket, bushings etc.,7.3 fuel filter conversion, Solid state controller OEM (new controller and Motorcraft GP's), Headlights converted to relay system with 65/100 Watt Cold Ice bulbs, Class V Hitch (10,000lb WC/15,000lb WD), Air Horns, Cadet 7' X 9' flat dump bed, 5 ton grainmaster dump hoist.
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Old 10-30-2005, 07:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Bleeding Clutch Master Cylinder

there is none!! i was a bit taken back when i seen it too.

if it aint one thing its another. after i got the motor in, the slave went, starter exploded and the radiator mysteriously started leaking.

now i have a hole in my firewall.

WHAT NEXT??????

btw the motor runs beautifully
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Old 10-30-2005, 08:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Bleeding Clutch Master Cylinder

Sounds familiar! I would take it back to where you got it and find a different one. I used a Wagner, it had a flush mounted allen screw. Someone had overtightened it, must have been the factory and it leaked. I replaced it, used the push it forward and open bleeder and it worked fine. I spent three weekends trying to bleed a 1994 Ford Ranger system, talk about JUNK! You have to remove the transmission to change the slave, the same as the newer F series gas (not sure about diesel). My dad bought Ford, put it all together and the slave cylinder leaked, so I had to pull it all back out! We then bought a Wagner. In our efforts to bleed it, we also found the master to be weak, so we replaced it, as well as a new clutch, PP and throwout because Fords better design leaked brake fluid into the bell housing. The truck is going up for sale, dad bought a Chevy.

I have been through what you are going through. I got to a point where if I hadn't already spent so much money, I would have junked my truck and been happy with scrap money for it. I would have done it under the condition I got to watch it be crushed!!! Now that I have been all through that crap, I am starting to enjoy it. I still need to replace my clutch and I have gathered up everything to do the heads. Will be replacing the injectors, IP and doing a valve job when it gets done. The guy I used to work for at the machine shop said I could come in and do my own heads and just pay for electric, so I am looking forward to getting back in there as well. I left on great terms for a state type job that he just couldn't match the benefits of!

Anyway, I am not sure you would would bleed that thing with no bleeder screw, good luck! I would say try to fill the slave with as much fluid as possible with the line off, then try to work the air out by getting the line end of the slave as high as possible, then just cycle it and hope the air passes up through the master cylinder. That is how I ended up bleeding the ridiculous system on that Ranger!
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1987 F250 6.9 4X4 - T19 Trans, 4.10 Dana 60 Front/Ford 10.25 rear, Dual Rear Wheels, Carter P4594 electric fuel pump, Restrictive air filter opened up, Firewall repair kit installed, new clutch m/cyl and pedal bracket, bushings etc.,7.3 fuel filter conversion, Solid state controller OEM (new controller and Motorcraft GP's), Headlights converted to relay system with 65/100 Watt Cold Ice bulbs, Class V Hitch (10,000lb WC/15,000lb WD), Air Horns, Cadet 7' X 9' flat dump bed, 5 ton grainmaster dump hoist.
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Old 10-31-2005, 05:47 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Bleeding Clutch Master Cylinder

thing is i like to know BEFORE it breaks, same way with farm equipment. keep stuff running good so when you need it theres no downtime.

this motor is a rebuild, i took the heads off anyway to inspect it, then strapped them back down with the studs i bought for the other motor. i used the heads that came with the rebuild, they looked rebuilt, instead of using the heads i rebuilt for my old motor.

once i get this truck ironed out i can start pulling broken head bolts from my old motor....

i have three k into this truck. and i know i couldnt replace it for that. thats the way i look at it and im stickin with it!
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Old 10-31-2005, 08:41 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Bleeding Clutch Master Cylinder

I hear you on that.. I've got between 3 and 4g's into it and I know I cant replace my truck for that... I'm planning on dumping about another 3 into it before its "finally" (quoted cuz it'll never be done..) done.I have an 80's f-350ish reg cab 4x4 dually that I built. 85 f250 6.9l motor and cab, 87 (soon to be a 96 for 500) bed, 86 f350 frame and drive 81 1 ton dually (d70hd) 84,88,and 89 interior parts and a 95ish dodge front bumper.. its wild and loud (straight pipes out the pass. side, true dual). I'm going to put a 4" lift on it 35x11.50 ground hawgs on the rear and 35x15 groundhawgs in the front. along with 6" s.s. straight stacks in the bed. possible 7.3 psd in the future.
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'85 Ford F-350 Dually 4x4 w/3.73's 6.9L XLT Lariat 7" lift w/ 36x12.50x16 super swamper tsl "Restoration" project since 2001.
Always looking for info on making my truck better and any advice anyone has. I've replaced most of the electrical system already and most of the feul system. Turbo is go'in on soon hopefully.. and 6" stacks are on
Visit this site below to see where I have my truck featured.
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Most of the build up
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