Found the plug for my block heater today. I can tell it hasn't been used in years. I was reading online that the block is thin where the block heater is installed and the block can crack if you use the heater in the winter???? Any truth to this statement? I am going to be running this truck in the snow (it is a plow truck after all). So do I plug this sucker in, try and start it dead cold, or add an "aftermarket" block heater somewhere in line (or somewhere else). If anybody can clear this misunderstanding up I would appreciate it.
It makes no sense for the block to crack if you use the heater. After all...that's what its there for. Now, I could see that happening maybe if it was WAY cold out and you plugged in while the engine was cold (i.e. forgot to plug in last night). Frankly, I'd probably just clean up or replace the plug and plug her on in.
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86 F250 Extended cab, 4x4, T-18/T-19, custom drive shafts. Time for axle upgrades.
I have seen three that have cracked. Since then we have always plugged them in for a couple of hours and had no problem. The ones that the guys cracked were plugged in overnight.
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86 F-250, 4 speed, 460 to 6.9 swap, hypermax turbo, bradford built flatbed
It affects the 6.9s only and it's only a certain production run of them. I don't have the serial numbers involved but other guys on here do. Probably one will post the numbers as soon as they see this thread.
Don't know about the cracks but those things are like 1000 watts, that's a lot of electricity to waste when plugged in overnight. I put mine on an outdoor timer. Last winter my GP controller wasn't working so I had no power to the glowplugs, but I could start it in as little as 1 hour. I've got the timer set to 2 hours before I have to leave in the AM. I also wired in a 110 lightbulb in the cab, this way I can peak out my bedroom window before I get up and have my morning coffee and make sure I didn't forget to plug it in or got a bad connection. Prior to the timer I plugged it in all the time and I've got no cracks but I've also got the 7.3.
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1986 F350 Crew Cab 2wd SRW. 1991 7.3 IDI, T-19 4spd Sterling 10.25 3.55, 12" HD clutch. A Banks waste gated turbo. 5" cut down Peterbilt stack. Midwest rebuilt IP turned up. AC Delco 6.5 GM 12V GP's, working great. Running W85 high performance zero-gel diesel! D60 front conversion, 4wd conversion, dually conversion, and steel flatbed conversion now underway. Man those frame rivets are a pain!
1966 Porsche 911. 1983 911 SC engine with modified Zenith carbs, headers, 911S brakes, custom fuel rails, MSD 6al box with timing computer, 1974 IROC body kit. 1850lbs, 200rwhp, total blast to drive.
According to the update I have, the updated casting was implemented starting with block number 173828 (which translates to roughly halfway through the '85 model year).
Before this number(173828) the casting was thinner around the block heater.
I use a timer to turn-on the block heater about 4 hours before I want to leave, I also have the heating system set to defrost and full heat on the temp slider, this defrosts the windshield and warms the cab. Another nice feature of using the block heater is instant heat.
__________________ Red 86 F250 Supercab XLT: Longbed, 6.9l, 4 speed with DNE-2 Overdrive, 2WD, 10.25 Sterling 4:11, Reclining Highback Captains chairs with arm-rest, Holly Red pump, push-button glowplugs, Racor 645 water separator with fuel heater, K&N Air Filter, Headlight Relay Upgrade, Fog Lights, lots of extra lights, Isspro EV series: Pyro, Oil Pressure, and Voltage in a Autometer 3 pod A-pillar. Bulldog Security System with remote entry. Offset Mirror Upgrade, Remote lube TOB. Road Watch System coming soon. PB PS PW PDL CC AC IW BOOB man - Brotherhood of Oil Burners
1995 Toyota Camry DX: 2.2L, Bolt-action 5-speed, AC, PS, PB, CC.
Triple A-pillar pod: Isspro EV voltage and oil-pressure gauges.
Road-Watch System (Air and road-surface temperature gauge).
Chicken Lights Gone.
yes, they will crack boys. i bet joe mc has the scoop. i always heard 83,84 and half way through '85. my '84 cracked. block is very thin on those years, about 1/8" at the block heater location. i have heard of guys with those years using their block heaters with no problems though......i would never have plugged mine in if i would have known.........
You could get one of the different style aftermarket heaters. The farm/ranch supply near here stocks a lot of them, I think the name is KIP or something like that.
Check your block number, the 85 actually came out in the fall of 84 so March could be a late build.
__________________ Red 86 F250 Supercab XLT: Longbed, 6.9l, 4 speed with DNE-2 Overdrive, 2WD, 10.25 Sterling 4:11, Reclining Highback Captains chairs with arm-rest, Holly Red pump, push-button glowplugs, Racor 645 water separator with fuel heater, K&N Air Filter, Headlight Relay Upgrade, Fog Lights, lots of extra lights, Isspro EV series: Pyro, Oil Pressure, and Voltage in a Autometer 3 pod A-pillar. Bulldog Security System with remote entry. Offset Mirror Upgrade, Remote lube TOB. Road Watch System coming soon. PB PS PW PDL CC AC IW BOOB man - Brotherhood of Oil Burners
1995 Toyota Camry DX: 2.2L, Bolt-action 5-speed, AC, PS, PB, CC.
Triple A-pillar pod: Isspro EV voltage and oil-pressure gauges.
Road-Watch System (Air and road-surface temperature gauge).
Chicken Lights Gone.
i believe it is the stamped numbers on the front of the block in front of the left cylinder head directly behind the injector pump housing. got it? front left corner of the block. right and left is always like you are sitting in the vehicle. i just went out and looked at mine and mine have letters in it........6.9du2u061104.....mine's birthday is november of '83
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