Brakes Failed, but then work again? - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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6.9L Diesels Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 6.9 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 03-09-2010, 04:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Brakes Failed, but then work again?

Dad was pulling our livestock trailer to our new place while we were moving and we went up a fairly steep hill in 4th (we have a late 70's T-18 in our truck) well, we didn't make it and came to a complete stop so we shifted down to first and it wouldn't pull up the hill, so we ended up pulling it the rest of the way with a truck and chain while my dad held the brakes on hills. The brakes quit working and we ended up going about 70 trying to keep the chain tight down hill and the truck from hitting us. Did the brake pads just heat up too much and lose friction? Once we got it there and parked, it sat for 2 years. Recently we started working on it and moved it, now the brakes seem to be working again. We only drove it in our driveway, not at highway speeds. Do I need to take a look at the brake pads?
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Old 03-09-2010, 05:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Could have had either brake fade from the friction material overheating (no loss of pedal) or brake fluid boil (pedal to floor). Both happen with the brakes being held on like that.

Once cooled, the brakes will return to normal, although with friction material fade some wearing of the glazed surface would be necessary to fully recover. It is possible to get the pads so hot that they start to delaminate from the steelbacks, so it would not hurt to examine them before going out on the road. Shucking a pad is no fun either.

Brake fluid should be changed as well.
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Old 03-09-2010, 06:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help, correct if I'm wrong but to change the fluid do you have to disconnect the lines from the brake hub end and pump fluid out with you brakes, and then put lines back on and refill and bleed the lines of air? Thanks in advanced.
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Close but you don't disconnect the lines. Each wheel has a bleeder valve, looks like an open nipple. Have someone stand on the brakes while you un-screw the bleeder about a quarter turn, after the fluid squirts out close the bleeder, then have your helper pump the pedal a couple of times then stand on the pedal while you do your bit again. Don't let the master cylinder go dry, check it often.
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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thanks joe, I will be getting after it in a week or so.
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