Hey folks,
I am currently having problems re-charging my batteries. So far I have replaced my alternator, voltage regulator and both batteries. As it happens my ignition doesn't work fully, so lately I have just been starting my truck by putting it in run position, cycling the glow plugs, and then jumping the solenoid with a screwdriver, and the truck runs like a dream. I got the ignition switch module thingy I plan on putting in tomorrow. In the mean time if that doesn't solve the issue what other things might it be? The orange wire to the the alternator doesn't seem to be getting power, and I was wondering if there was any safe way I could jump that with a wire or something temporarily to see if that would help. Any info would be greatly appreciated seeing how my primary vehicle is on the fritz. Thanks for the help......
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(96 Ford F-250 XLT) Extra Cab 2 Wheel Drive
7.3 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel
PAC Brake
you mentioned in your original post that you were going to replace the "module thingy" today. I for one am waiting to see what happens after you do that. There are contacts inside that complete circuits depending on the position of the key.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco 323RKS fifth wheel w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
If the large orange wire going to the alt isn't getting any power, then that is your problem. This is the charge wire and should be connected to the always-hot terminal on either the start solenoid or the glowplug relay. There is a roughly pencil-sized wire going from wherever the orange wire connects over to the battery positive, this is how the battery gets charged. I believe there is a fusible link in the orange wire somewhere, which could be blown.
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1986 F250 2WD Super Cab XLT Lariat w/ 1996 front clip. Dually bed & van rearend (2" wider, allows spring clearance). 6.9 w/ approx 120,000mi. Banks non-wastegated turbo system, Wellman G088 glowplugs, Delphi BB injectors, Kenworth pyrometer, vac/boost gauge, electric water temp/oil psi/voltmeter mounted in dash. 3" Mandrel-bent open exhaust. C6 trans, 3.54 gears. Okiegringo idler pulley. R134a A/C conversion. WMO/diesel blend in one tank.
you mentioned in your original post that you were going to replace the "module thingy" today. I for one am waiting to see what happens after you do that. There are contacts inside that complete circuits depending on the position of the key.
Well, I am in the process I got the bottom plastic "cowl" off, and checked the rod which seems in order, any advice on dropping the steering column? From what I saw I couldn't quite figure on how to do it.
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(96 Ford F-250 XLT) Extra Cab 2 Wheel Drive
7.3 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel
PAC Brake
IIRC, there should only be two large bolts that hold the column up. I haven't ever had to replace the ignition "switch" down in the column, just the key cylinder a few times for people.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco 323RKS fifth wheel w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
Yeah, 2 bolts and it should just lay down on the seat.
Do you have a 7.3 in your 86?
__________________ Red 86 F250 Supercab XLT: Longbed, 6.9l, 4 speed with DNE-2 Overdrive, 2WD, 10.25 Sterling 4:11, Reclining Highback Captains chairs with arm-rest, Holly Red pump, push-button glowplugs, Racor 645 water separator with fuel heater, K&N Air Filter, Headlight Relay Upgrade, Fog Lights, lots of extra lights, Isspro EV series: Pyro, Oil Pressure, and Voltage in a Autometer 3 pod A-pillar. Bulldog Security System with remote entry. Offset Mirror Upgrade, Remote lube TOB. Road Watch System coming soon. PB PS PW PDL CC AC IW BOOB man - Brotherhood of Oil Burners
1995 Toyota Camry DX: 2.2L, Bolt-action 5-speed, AC, PS, PB, CC.
Triple A-pillar pod: Isspro EV voltage and oil-pressure gauges.
Road-Watch System (Air and road-surface temperature gauge).
Chicken Lights Gone.
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