Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Windham, ME
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
You have to fill the slave cylinder before installing it. It's a fun little job, hold the cylinder at an angle and dribble brake fluid in the line port till it's full. Then tap the cylinder to dislodge any air, and repeat many times. When you're certain it's full, tap it again and a big air bubble that's been sitting in there since you started will come out and you can keep filling & tapping.
Once the slave cylinder is full, put a pan under the hose and fill the master cylinder. Allow fluid to drain out of the hose until a solid stream with no bubbles is coming out. Fill the master to the top, quickly get under the truck with the slave cylinder, the roll pin for the line, and a small hammer. Insert the line in the port and install the roll pin.
Now for the most fun part of all. Clip the bracket halfway onto the mounting ear, and using some kind of pliers grasp the pushrod and force it into the slave cylinder until you can slip the pushrod into the pocket in the release fork. Then seat the slave cylinder fully on its mounting ear, and try your clutch. If it doesn't grind going into reverse at idle you're good. You may have a small amount of air in the system, that should bleed out with normal use.
Check my lists of common part numbers in my photos! Updated often!
1991 F350 Lariat XLT, 7.3l, 5-speed, crew cab, SRW, 3.55, 2WD.
1990 Jeep Wrangler Sahara, in the process of a major overhaul/upgrade. OM617 on the horizon! Front & rear Dana 44s from a Wagoneer till I get some 1-ton axles built & narrowed, and eventually a front shackle reversal. Diesel YJ, bay-BEE, and not a cookie-cutter 4BT conversion!