DOA after return hoses replacement...

[MrData]

Wanted to enumerate what happened this week, just so another rookie like me has something to reference... But also to see if anyone had the same happen...

I replaced the fuel return lines and the injector caps/washers last weekend. Didn't pull the injectors, cuz I figured I'd be more likely to foobar one of them and I think they work fine... so, I used all the parts in the kit but for the copper o-rings.

Over time, I had watched the hard starting get worse, and the fixes to the hoses just didn't seem to do much good to the air leak problems, so it was time.

It took about an hour. The truck - still cold - lit immediately, and I thought to myself that I was one damn lucky rookie... I restarted it several times, and let it run for a good 20 minutes while I put all the tools away and cleaned up. Shut it down and took the kids to the park for the day.

Next day I was driving it to the video store, it died on the way home. Drove about 1/2 mile, idled for 2 minutes while I put the movies away, drove across the lot, step on the gas to turn left - and it just stopped dead. DOA.

Some hard starting later, it lit for 2 seconds, died. It did this three times, then it just would not light - tried until the battery gave up. Had AAA tow it home. I figured there was an air bubble in lines or something unrelated really broke.

Charge up the batterys, no go. Nothing. With a fresh charge, the starter is really, really turning. No help. Bleed the pressure from the fuel filter - nothing. No fuel smell from the tail pipe - I think I'm screwed, something else in the fuel system broke... In an act of desperation I disconnect the glow plug relay, dispense with my better judgment, and down the throat goes a bit of ether.

It starts. It was a bit wobbly, clearly not firing on all cylinders, but after a minute or so, it settled down to a burble and runs and runs and runs. So, while it was doing this, I took the opportunity - which I should have done in the first place - to bleed off the lines while it was running. The odd thing is - none of the lines bubbled as previous posts have said they would. They all sprayed and fuel ran clear.

I don't know what happened, but I thought if someone had something similar happen, they could enumerate what they figured out.

[cdnsarguy]

What fuel level in the tank selected...... over 1/3 full. If there are any of the orings that did NOT seat fully, air will replace the fuel in the IP and lines. Not uncommon.... to have this happen.

Visit...... Ford diesel 6.9 7.3 IDI read up on air leaks in the fuel filter/system........ think to do the clear hose test. How old is the fuel lift pump....

[Joe Mc]

Just a guess but it sounds like you did a good job with the return lines. Minor air leaks in the return lines don't kill them while running, look for an unrelated problem that just happened to show up now.

[MrData]

To finish this out, the tanks were both topped off. I let it sit for two days, it started immediately - cold. I'm out of town for a week, so when I get back and start it, I'll know.

[MrData]

Ok, it was two weeks. It started right away, ran for about 15 seconds, and then died. Since it was only going for 2-3 seconds prior, I'll take that to mean I've fixed the upper air leaks, and still have some below the fuel pump. sigh.

I learned something else. The "it just died" problem manifested. Turns out that the ignition switch actuator is not keeping the switch all the way open - and it only happens very occasionally. Figured this out when the switch was in the "on" position, and no accessories came on... Sigh. I'm such a rookie.

I took the ingition cylinder apart to figure out the problem was below the cylinder. When I checked, I noted that one of the bolts was loose, but it is clear I have to tear the lower dash out to do a good job. Since I'm going to be in there... I might as well replace some things, so parts on order...

Thank you everyone.

[icanfixall]

Gees... Aren't those ignition switches in a great place..... Just be sure you have the new one set correctly so this doesn't happen again. If, when you get things fixed and the problem stays with you try this. Run a jumper wire from the positive side of either battery directly to the injection pump shutoff solenoid terminal. This will bypass the ignition switch. If the motor stays running and not die as it did in the previous times then the ignition switch is not set correctly. If you have the jumper wire in place and try to shut off the motor the ignition key wont do it. You will have to remove the jumper wire. Really not so hard but some owners do forget this...

[MrData]

Replaced the Ignition Switch, starts fine now. I think I set it too close tho, since the spring will rotate the key lock back to off if you let go in the start position... I'm going to leave it alone for a while, and adjust next time I have to get into the dash.

That said, this was much easier than I thought it would be. I still had the steering wheel off, and all the rest of the upper column parts from the diagnosis phase, none of which is needed. It's much easier to pull off the instrument panel face plate, which exposes the center lower shroud, and you have access to everything you need. It's easier than changing the turn signal switch...

One note, the engine idles rough, which it has never done before. It races slightly every minute or two, I'm going to guess it's about 100 to 150rpm additional at idle. It clearly misses too. Even after I took it out and ran it for a while. I'm assuming the lines need a bit more bleeding... hopefully the new glowplugs didn't fry in the fray of the ignition switch reseting the glow plug controller continuously.

Good news is, the truck is back on duty, contributing to projects rather than being the project.