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6.9L Diesels Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 6.9 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

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Old 01-24-2012, 07:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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fuel water separator

where is the fuel water seporater located on the fire wall.
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Old 01-24-2012, 07:57 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What is the year and model of truck?
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:00 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Edit your signature so we know what kind of truck you have, including the year!
From 83-87 they were just beside the clutch master cylinder tucked into the corner. Im assuming u have an 83-87 since you are in the 6.9 forum. They are known to be problematic, mine is one of the few around these parts that isn't knock on wood. I will be replacing it with a Racor 120A in the spring with a 30 micron filer.
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1984 F-250 6.9, T-19, BW1345, BB code injectors, low mileage, manual Beru Glow Plugs, D70 rear end. solid truck.

1985 Toyota Landcruiser BJ60, 5 bearing cam 3B 4cyl diesel, H55F trans. Best rig I have ever owned.

1981 Honda Trail 110.
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Old 01-25-2012, 12:23 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Its an 83 its hard to start

1983 f350 flatbed
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:54 PM   #5 (permalink)
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This image is from elsewhere on this site, shows a bypassed (nonfunctional) fuel-water separator on a 1983 6.9L diesel
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Ok how can I tell if its bad and what can I do to bypass or replace this part

1983 f350
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:04 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Don't have time for a full response, but as far as I recall, the following are the problems which may result from failure in the fuel-water separator:
  1. Fuel leakage from bad connections
  2. Air intrusion from bad connections
  3. Failure to separate water from fuel (have never heard of this happening)
I used to have this, checked it every few months by opening the valve at the bottom, and letting a little fuel or water out. Then one day when the truck had passed the age of 15, the plastic valve mechanism disintegrated & the bottom started leaking. At that time I was still able to buy a replacement device, the cost was exorbitant, well over $200. I bought the hardware for a 1990 7.3L diesel and a Racor 829 type filter - which replaced my OEM fuel filter and the fuel-water separator all at once, and have been running this ever since. There are other solutions now.
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1983 F250HD 6.9L Diesel getting 22 mpg empty, bought it new for $11K. Still going after 160K miles
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:35 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hmm I havent bothered to check the valve then if that's the problem then I might just do a motor swap or the upper parts

1983 f350
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Old 01-28-2012, 12:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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You do not need to swap motors, just the filter head and filter. The newer 7.3 filter water seperator has the same intake, outlet, and bypass connections. They also have the fuel heater in the top of the filter head, the 6.9 if the wires are still connected are between the fuel transfer pump and the filter head. The 7.3 fuel heaters do leak and are about $80 to replace.
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Old 01-28-2012, 10:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I have heard that the pumps fail aswell im aliminating one problem at a time I put new injectors and injector pump as well and still hard to start

1983 f350
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Old 01-28-2012, 10:31 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by f-350daddy12 View Post
I have heard that the pumps fail aswell im aliminating one problem at a time I put new injectors and injector pump as well and still hard to start

1983 f350
"Hard to start" has many causes. In a vehicle as old as 1983, I would suspect air intrusion or poor glow plug operation as the major causes, more than pump failure. If you can turn off your warm engine for 5 minutes, and then re-start it without difficulty, that suggests your injection pump and fuel injectors are in reasonable working order. You don't need glow plugs to start a warm engine. Mild to moderate air intrusion takes time to show up. Severe air intrusion will often result in rough idling & rough running, not just a hard-to-start condition.
Have you fixed your fuel return lines? Air intrusion often results from deteriorated / leaking fuel return lines.
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The 83 usually come with the straight drive starter, and after time will crank the engine over slower resulting in a hard start problem. The main problem with this is that it is gradual and you do not notice it until it will not crank over anymore. I recently switched from a direct drive the the mitsu gear reduction starter and was impressed with the cranking speed.
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Old 01-30-2012, 12:10 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Ok i put new glow plugs and the glow plug syl i also replaced the injector pump aswell

1983 f350
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Old 01-30-2012, 12:11 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Didnt think about the starter

1983 f350
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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What can i do to tune the injector pump to help it get a little more power on the road

1983 f350
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