Hello,
I have a 1986 F-250 with a US Gear overdrive unit and a four speed tranny. I have never owned one of these overdrive units. I was wondering if anyone could give some pros and cons to both Gear vendors and US gear overdrive units?
First, search for this topic. It has been brought up many times and with good information.
Second, why are u asking about GVs, when you already have a USG?
In a nutshell the USG is more solidly built/designed, but not as user friendly.
The GV is very easy to use/better shifting, but has some annoying limitations.
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02 CC 4x4 auto, AIS, DPTunerF5, FTVB, 4" Banks Monster SS Exhaust, HPOXover, AirDog soon
I just installed a GV yesterday. I now have 8 forward gears. My trans is the BTS E4OD. The GV is a more expensive unit but if it breaks you continue down the road. You just loose the extra gears... If the US gear breaks that as far as you go. They also are a direct drive gear mesh unit where the GV is a clutch engagement type unit. The GV is a smoother shift than the US gear unit. The GV is qiutier than the US gear. My GV cost me $3200.00 shipped to my door. I'm about 123 miles from their shop in El Cohon.... Keep what you have.. Its a fine unit to have.
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89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....
andddd--the only thing i have read about the gv--is dont try a lot of compression braking--as it will break them--
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94 f250 idi turbo sc e4od alum fac rims 149,289 --dana 60 frt with posi--10.25 rear w/posi--shouldnt get stuck!! ats turbo 3" parts on--what a diff from stock turbo!!!!!--- also 96 F250 with 305,000 is fixed!!-- 7.3 rattler-also 85 6.9-needs new engine!! tired!!
That limitation is the same part of the design comprimise that allows you to shift into Overdrive at full power. That's something you can't do with a USG. Generally speaking in practicle use, there is no need to use deceleration braking in overdrive. While it is the GV's achelies heel, there is no realized impediment.
in practicle use, there is no need to use deceleration braking in overdrive.
Maybe not in flat PA. Try towing in the far western states. Dropping down +/-7000ft. on 15 mile 6% grades at various speeds and various gears off and on during a long trip and having to check to be sure you were'nt in OD all the time would get old real quick.
Quote:
In a nutshell the USG is more solidly built/designed
For sure, comparing the two different designs there's no doubt.
I now have 8 forward gears. My trans is the BTS E4OD.
The GV is a more expensive unit but if it breaks you continue down the road. You just loose the extra gears... If the US gear breaks that as far as you go.
I have seen others that claim 7 forward gears with the GV, something about it not having enough speed or rpms to shift right in first. This is just what I have heard and not first hand knowledge.
MY DNE-2(a US Gear style unit) has quit twice, once it just quit shifting losing the extra gears, but it was still drivable. The other time it did stop between gears, but it only takes 3 minutes to slide under and manually shift it in to a range and it is back to being a 4-speed.
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Red 86 F250 Supercab XLT, Longbed, 6.9l, 4 speed with DNE-2 Overdrive, 2WD, Reclining Highback Captains chairs with arm-rest, Holly Red pump, push-button glowplugs, Racor 645 water separator with fuel heater, K&N Air Filter, Headlight Relay Upgrade, lots of extra lights, Isspro EV series: Pyro, Oil Pressure, and Voltage in a Autometer 3 pod A-pillar. Bulldog Security System with remote entry. Remote lube TOB.
BOOB man - Brotherhood of Oil Burners
Joe... Once I get up to 20 mph the internal pump has enough pressure to shift. So I can be in 1st, then 1st over and so on till I'm in double overdrive... Thats 8 forward gears.... I sure like it...
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89 7.3 crewcab w/ Banks Sidewinder Wastegated Turbo. 4 inch straight piped. BTS E4OD trans with 2 extra gallons of ATF in a Mag Hy-Tec pan. Gear Vendors. Rodney Red custom aluminum radiator. Moose Pump with "G' injectors. Motor rebuilt with new after market ported heads. Mahle low comp pistons milled 12 thousands. Balanced to 1/4 to 1/3 gram. Lined bored. Block decked and sleeved on all 8. Shimed oil pump for higher pressure. Intake and exhaust logs ported too. Hypermax in shop waiting to be installed later....
Everyone pretty much covered it. The GV is 'automatic' while the USG unit, you have to manually engage/disengage (last I heard it's not auto....could be wrong.)
The USG unit is like an old two speed axle truck. Takes some time to get use to, but once you do, it is no issue.
Here is how I drive an two speed axle truck (upshifting). Start in the gear, get going. Pull up on the controler and wait like 3 seconds, clutch. The split shifts when you clutch (some say just let up on the accelerator... it works too, but clutching seems more positive)- we'll say you're in 1st OVER. When you want to switch gears, push the controler down, wait 3 seconds, shift the tranny to next gear. The unit should shift down and you'll be in 2nd gear. Accelerate, pull up on the controller, wait 3 seconds, clutch.... now 2nd OVER. And you keep dong that until you get to high gear (or OD). The other method (when not loaded), is to leave the splitter in low, shift 1 to 4 and when in your last gear, shift the OD. You're treating it like a 4 speed w/ OD instead of a splitter.
Now, down shifting, its suppose to be the exact opposite, but I never got it down w/ a two speed axle. I was always grinding gears down shifting. Could never get the ground speed, engine RPM right w/ what gear I was going to. I could down shift normal, but not split shift downshifting....
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1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed
Ive had both,the us gear unit is strong,way strong,but noisey compaired to the GearVendor.The us Gear unit can be used in 4 wheel drive,only one application can the gear vendor be used in 4 wheel drive,all the rest 2 wheel drive only.I build rebuild gear vendor/lay**** units at home,so i lean towards them.
I like beingable to shift under power and letting the wife take the truck knowing she cant blow it up.Gear vendor units can only handle 30k weight for a short time,and in reverse,they have issues above 20k,where the us gear units have no issues in reverse.Also: icanfixall-- if you shift the gear vendor at 20 mph[dont do it! it will decrease the life of the cone clutch] and you will be stuck somewhere.The reason GEAR VENDORS have an issue in reverse is they have a one way bearing[like a sprag bearing]but the thing has a PLASTIC bearing cage,yes plastic!! i dont know why they still use this but it allways breaks in the reverse mode,under heavy loads. And then chews up the rest of insides.keep your US GEAR UNIT,it will last forever if it is shifted correctly....just my 2cents worth
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