HELP! F250 6.9 won't start, very sudden bizarreness...

[joshuarstuart]

I've got a peculiar one for you all and need some immediate advice since I love my truck but can only do so much work/troubleshooting on my own!

I live in Alaska - just drove home from Anchorage to Fairbanks this afternoon (about 350 miles). It sat cold over the weekend without being plugged in (block heater, pad heater, battery warmers) because Anchorage isn't quite as cold as Fairbanks, and it started fine this morning. No problems on the drive. I got into Fairbanks, pulled into my local bar for a hamburger, went back out to my truck maybe 20-30 minutes later and it WOULD NOT START! DC charge looks happy, glow plugs seem to be warming up but NOTHING! A friendly guy tried giving me a jump and nothing. It sounds like a starter problem to me but I really don't know....so, before I pay a ridiculous amount of money to bring a mechanic out to the parking lot where my truck is now sitting forlorn can anyone give me some advice on what else to check?

-Joshua

[farnereinar]

try jumping the starter selonoid on the wheel well, pull the little red wire thats covering the little post and take ANOTHER piece of wire and jump it from the batter positive to that post, see what happens.(the selonoid ur messing with will give a distict "click" if its working right...no click then that selonoid is bad)..if the starter makes some noises then its prolly an ignition switch.....if nothing then id say connections (usually when a starter dies the selonoid on the starter will still click), in alaska id think salt would ruin the connections on the starter under the truck pretty darn quickly....

[pnose]

It is spinning over,right? If so how fast is it spinning,look at the tach when cranking.If its cranking ok,pull the wire off the ip with the key on and listen for a click from the fuel shut off sol,its the wire furthest towards the front on the pump.

[cdnsarguy]

Check the filter schrader valve for air or fuel if the engine is rolling over. What is the fuel status in the tank selected above 1/4 full.

[Joe Mc]

If the starter is not doing anything at all, then slide under the truck with a hammer. First check that the wire from the solenoid is still connected and tight, if all looks good then give the starter 5 or 6 sharp raps with the hammer. Then get out from under and go through the starting procedure, you may need to do this a couple of times. If the starter died because of worn brushes this will shake them down and give you 2 or 3 more starts. That should allow you to take it to a shop.

[Spencnaz]

Sounds like the Fuel Shutoff Solenoid in the top cover of your IP. I had that happen to me last September.

It's a simple fix, but make sure you get the linkage that goes from the FSS into the IP properly setup, or you could have a run away.

If you jumper 12V to the solenoid terminal and don't hear a click then the solenoid is bad. I picked up a new one from a junkyard and got the IP with it for 50 bucks.

[Fred Hemer]

Its not clear if your truck is cranking but! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
IS THE TRUCK AUTO ?
Nutral saftey switch or clutch switch on a standard!
Try putting it in nutral to start if its auto.

cheap and easy stuff first!

[joshuarstuart]

thanks everyone for the suggestions....

I tried jumping from the solenoid by crossing the terminals with a screwdriver and the solenoid clicked by the starter just puttered out. I also tried giving the starter a few sharp wacks with a hammer and nothing. I bought a new starter and tried to install it but managed to strip one of the bolts down and now I am completely stuck....any suggestions on how to get a stripped bolt out???

-joshua

[farnereinar]

im guessing you got the top bolt to strip, i hate that bolt more than anything, needing darn different size extensions and all. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/vomit.gif[/img] id say just use a shallow 6-pointer with extensions, hammer it on if need be....if its a bottom side bolt an awesome pair of vice grips put on SUPPPPPER tight (it might take 2 pairs of hands) might crack it lose....a sure fire way to get it is sears sells these craftsman sort of sockets or bolt extractors that you turn with a wrench (theyre really really sharp that "cut" into the hex head of the bolt, but if i remember right you need to turn it with a wrench...so iff its the top bolt i doubt youll be able to get a wrench up there (if alaska has any sears stores anyhow [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img])...and i guess being youre not near a welder to tack another nut on it (again...bad location as well youre working in) i was able to use pc-7 (that nasty 2 part epoxy) let them get cold....(put them in the freezer for an hour or so, so the consistancy is thick as heck)and stuff the next size up metric socket on the cap and give it the day to harden, takes awhile but it worked once for me in a situation like that and of course you need a new socket and bolt....but hey if its craftsman, no biggie...

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]

get some nice grade 8 or 9's

[BullHauler]

If the truck is a 4- or 5-speed, get someone to pull-start it. This will get you to a shop.

Weak batteries will act like a bad starter and more times than not, the batteries are to blame.

[hweaver]

We got a Sears in Anchorage. I was just about to suggest the Bolt Out myself. I went and looked at the sets that I have and they make a shallow and deep set. A socket can be used to turn the bolt out, but I would suggest the shallow ones so that you can force the bolt out to get a bite on the rounded off bolt head. I think this will work very well.

Man, as cold as it has been here lately, I hope you have #1 diesel in your tanks, or you will have another problem when you try to start up.

hweaver
Anchorage AK

[joshuarstuart]

[ QUOTE ]
If the truck is a 4- or 5-speed, get someone to pull-start it. This will get you to a shop.

Weak batteries will act like a bad starter and more times than not, the batteries are to blame.

[/ QUOTE ]


I've never done this with a truck before...especially on an icy parking lot - any suggestions?

[jmjames]

It (pull starting) won't work on ice!!! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] You will have to find a place where it is dry in order to pull start your truck otherwise the wheels will just slide on the ice/snow. I would be looking for a buddy to tow you with a rope to someplace you can work on it or at least to a shop. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif[/img] Sorry to read about your troubles but these are really great old trucks. Still cheaper that a new truck payment and insurance.

Best of luck!!

[Baar]

This is is a bit late, but I had the same thing happen and got lucky. My TU bearing was starting to hang up a bit. When all else checked out I wound up just pushing down hard on the clutch. It went about 1/4 inch further and the truck started just fine.
Jusr my two cents worth.
John

[BullHauler]

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
If the truck is a 4- or 5-speed, get someone to pull-start it. This will get you to a shop.

Weak batteries will act like a bad starter and more times than not, the batteries are to blame.

[/ QUOTE ]


I've never done this with a truck before...especially on an icy parking lot - any suggestions?

[/ QUOTE ]

You need to learn how to do this - ice or no ice.

Have someone hook to the truck in order to pull it.

Put the transmission in 3 or 4 or 5th with the switch/key turned on.

Have them pull you and when you get to moving about 8 mph or there-abouts, let out the clutch such that the turning of the wheels will turn over the engine.

Listen and pay close attention and when she fires, depress the clutch and quit pulling.

Make sure not to rearend the pulling truck; this has a tendency to make them not want to help anymore.

Sometimes, it will start right off; and sometimes, you may have to pull one a 1/4 mile or more.

The ice would have to be awfully slick for this not to work.