how do you time an injector pump

[mikeproeder]

i have a 1984 6.9 it smokes alot and with a manual only gets about 13 to 15mpg and the guy i bought it from replaces the injector pump so im guessing its most likely timed wrong how can i check the timing and reset it the correct way. thanks

[chuckster57]

the "PROPER" way to time it is with a special tool that uses a luminosity probe in the #1 cylinder or a special pick up device on the #1 injector line. Best take it to a shop that has the equipment to do it.

There are other reasons for it to smoke. Is the smoke white or black and under what conditions does it smoke. ie: at start-up, hard accelleration, all the time....

[mikeproeder]

under load its black, when unloaded and excelleraating its a grey ish black , start up its a very small poof of blue and grey

[Matt0987]

If that is your miledge around town it might be correct. That is what I got out of my 83 6.9 F-350. It, too, had a manual tranny. But then, I believe that it had a lower rear end than the 250. It also had 175 BHP compared to the 150 BHP of the 250. Mine was a 2wd. It also had lumber racks.

I did not see the specfications about your truck. Have you had it long? Is it your first diesel?

What color is the smoke? If the IP was a really recent change the system may still be purging the air from the system. The smoke would be white. You will have the same white smoke after a fuel filter change. But the purging would not take more than several miles.

[mikeproeder]

i have had the truck for just over a month and yes its my first diesel i stated what the smoke is doing above. i dont think its purging because i have put at least 800 miles on it so far

[Njellison]

Originally Posted by mikeproeder

under load its black, when unloaded and excelleraating its a grey ish black , start up its a very small poof of blue and grey

Black is unburned fuel. Typical to see it more under heavy load than idle if the pump is turned up a bit. You can turn pump down slightly to try and eliminate it but any adjustment of pump effects timing to some extent. Still I would probably adjust it to minimize fuel waste and ovoid overheating the piston heads which is what happens with to much fuel under a load. Do you have a pyro on it?

Small poof of blue at start up is probably a slight bit of oil leaking past your valve stems as that was a problem on the original design. As long as it is minor it is probably not worth changing them out for the newer design. As long as you have no oil/water mixing in engine or coolant then most likely not a major (to some) issue such as head gasket or ?

I get better MPG than this but I run a manual 4x4 reg cab mostly at 45 mph (no freeways). These rigs rev a wee bit at 65 mph or more (highway speed) as they where designed in the 55 mph days. If you can run it at 55 then you will probably see 17 or 18 mpg.

[Matt0987]

These rigs rev a wee bit at 65 mph or more (highway speed) as they where designed in the 55 mph days. If you can run it at 55 then you will probably see 17 or 18 mpg.

Excellant thought

[mikeproeder]

i dont have a pyro and i dont know what that is can you please tell me

i usually do about 55 maybe 60 at times i dont like to rev it up

i have done valve stem seals b4 its not to bad on a gas motor thats what i figured that was

as for the oil in coolent i have that but it was because the owner b4 me did a oil cooler rebuild and put the wrong gaskets on the motor so it leaked and i havent gotten it flushed all the way out but there is no water in my oil so that is good

and how do i adjust the pump ?

thanks alot !

[Matt0987]

A pyrometer is a thermocoupler installed before or after the turbo. Your decision depending on the thermocoupler and gauge design. It measures the temperature of the exhaust gases. It is more accurate than the idiot light or the factory gauge. It also tells you the temperature of the engine quicker than the idiot light and the factory temperature gauge.

I have driven down the road with the pyro telling me that the engine exhaust gases were 200 degrees up to 1300 degrees. All the while the factory temperature gauge just remained within the normal parameters. At the same spot on the factory gauge.

With the pyrometer I knew to back off long before the engine over heated. Long before the factory gauge ever would have indicated a problem. And my gauge actually defuels the engine if the temperature gets to a point that I pre-set. That way I avoid overheating, again, long before it becomes a real threat.

Besides, it's cool!!!! GAUGES-GAUGES-AND-MORE-GAUGES!!!!

[mikeproeder]

haha thanks but i dont have a turbo and my turck is to old for idiot lights haha

and if you know of anyone who has a turbo for a idi let me know

[Matt0987]

The pyro can be installed on a truck w/out the turbo. It will still give you great info. But on a 25 year old truck? Only for fun, I suppose.

[mikeproeder]

once i get more guages that will be one i buy and put in thanks alot !

[LMJD]

A pyrometer and engine temp gauge have nothing in common with each other. Exhaust gas temp (pyrometer) can go sky-high, even cause engine damage, and engine temp will stay in the normal range. The opposite can also occur, engine temp can be high enough to grenade an engine and exhaust gas temp (pyro) will be in the normal range.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by LMJD

A pyrometer and engine temp gauge have nothing in common with each other. Exhaust gas temp (pyrometer) can go sky-high, even cause engine damage, and engine temp will stay in the normal range. The opposite can also occur, engine temp can be high enough to grenade an engine and exhaust gas temp (pyro) will be in the normal range.

Got that right
On our road trip I could pull a good grade and watch the temp gauge go to 230 and the EGT's stay at 1100. And some short steep grades I could see 1200 EGT and the temp stay at 200-205.

And my gauge actually defuels the engine if the temperature gets to a point that I pre-set. That way I avoid overheating, again, long before it becomes a real threat.

the IDI isn't computer controlled so the only way to defuel is to take your foot off the go pedal

[LMJD]

Yep, generally even the resulting damage is different between the two in bigger diesels. Excessively high EGTs=scored piston skirts and sleeves, overheated engine=cracked heads.

I liked your vacation pics after I finally smartened up and linked correctly. But by that one pic, you're not going to convince me your cat was having a lot of fun!