If you use nylon kingpin bushings, you can put it all together yourself. If you use the better bronze bushings, they need to be pressed in and reamed to the proper dimension of the kingpin (don't ask me why).
Although really, if all you have is up-and-down play, that's not really wear. Once your wheels are on the ground, that play is gone (gravity is wonderful).
You need to check your kingpins just like ball joints by checking for play horizontal to the ground.
1997 Ford F350 SRW 7.3L PSD
1985 Ford Ranger 2.3L 5 speed
1966 Mustang 200 I6, auto, 4 wheel disk, power brake retrofit, Corvette master.
Former vehicles, 1994 E350 7.3L IDI, 1985 International 1654 rollback, 6.9L IDI, (2) 1994 Ford E350 7.3L IDI, 1985 Ford F350 DRW 6.9L IDI, 1985 Ford F350 wrecker 6.9L IDI.
*dual ASE Master Certified, Automotive, Medium & Heavy trucks*
Owner / operator, Patriot Automotive, N Ridgeville OH
Use the bronze bushings, take the spindles and kingpins down to an automotive machine shop have the bushings pressed in and reamed doesn't cost all that much. If you buy the pins from the same place that installs them they may make you a deal to install the bushings if not for free. The rest of the job is pretty much just R&R.
91 F350 reg.cab, SRW, 4x4, Powered by a '98 Cummins 12v. BHAF, #10 plate, 3k gsk in the near future, Di-Pricol pyro and boost gauge and VDO oil pressure gauge in a custom A-pillar mount, 4" straight exhaust, PSD intercooler, 4.10's, ZF 5spd, 4" superlift, 305/70/16's
i had same problem, all i did, went and got king pin kit at autozone(50$) pulled king pins out, put in new bearing and shims, then put old king pin back in. since the bushings had no play, no need to replace. the hard part was getting the king pins out. after than all went easy
that probly is your problem, the bearing is gone. look at the good side then the bad side. u will see it missing.
1986 F250 6.9,ATS turbo, np435, BW1356, hp 60,welded up sterling 10.25.
converted from 2wd to 4x4
sittin on 36x12.5 goodyears
GETTING CONVERTED TO SHORTBED AS WE SPEAK!
Nearly every kingping I've had to repair has been a real PITA to get out. Hammers, tongs, torch, the pins frequently also require talking to God. In an earlier thread, somone mentioned that the F350s were somewhat easier than that.
Yea just be glad that your kingpins are a little loose and not seizing up lol. My first truck they were actually soo bad that if the truck was idling and you went to turn the wheel that you could almost stall the motor from the work of the power steering pump. It took quite some time with torches and large hammers to enventually get them free. Had to heat up all around them to get it red hot and expand the area then Pound on the pins to get them to come out. After that I always made sure that I would get in there and put a little bit of greese to em every now and then.
86 Ford F250 4x4 with 4in Rough Country lift and poly bushings all around converted from 351W to 6.9L Diesel (rolling chassis at the moment)
wish they made a nylon kit, it would be an easier job. the only nylon kits they make are for the lighter front axle found on the f100 and LD f150. these were .884" diameter. the HD f150 and all 250-350 used a 1.084" pin. besure who ever does the pressing and machining of the bushings uses a "Sunnen Honer" otherwise, they will likely never get the pins aligned right, and you will have either a camber or caster problem, or possibly both. that is if you can even get the pin in. i always sub mine out to a local machine shop. noway i would even try this at my shop. this is a delicate job that requires the best of machining tools..
Yep, that Sunnen machine will do them true everytime, granted the operator does his/her job. We did all our work like this on an old sunnen. We mostly resized the big end on rods and put wrist pin bushings in and floated them with the sunned. Now that I don't do any machine work I miss that machine! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
1987 F250 6.9 4X4 - T19 Trans, 4.10 Dana 60 Front/Ford 10.25 rear, Dual Rear Wheels, Carter P4594 electric fuel pump, Restrictive air filter opened up, Firewall repair kit installed, new clutch m/cyl and pedal bracket, bushings etc.,7.3 fuel filter conversion, Solid state controller OEM (new controller and Motorcraft GP's), Headlights converted to relay system with 65/100 Watt Cold Ice bulbs, Class V Hitch (10,000lb WC/15,000lb WD), Air Horns, Cadet 7' X 9' flat dump bed, 5 ton grainmaster dump hoist.
I used to hand ream motorcycle rod bushings as well when I was young and STUPID. I am amazed that I never had a failure. Actaully, all the motors I built ran great. Some are still being raced many years later.
1983 F250 6.9IDI 2WD, Reg cab. New Headgaskets, Heads re-done,ARP studs, Dual exhaust. Gauges-Oil press., trans oil temp., water temp, and EGT, New Paint/Rust repair.
2000 VW TDI 200HP 370TQ