I am trying to replace my u joint at my rear axle, I have the driveshaft disconnected at the axle, and I have removed those clips. But how do I get the ujoint out of the driveshaft? I can't figure it out. Please help.
Luke
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87 Ford F-350 4X4. 4 speed manual.
You will have to take the driveshaft out and press it out and the new one in. Some use a hammer, and if you know what you are doing you can drive them out, but I don't recommend it unless you know how to support things so you don't bend the ears that the u joint presses into. I usually use a vise with one socket slightly smaller than the ujoint end caps to push with, and one that is larger to push into. Getting this all in line in the vise can be fun, but you just shove the whole ujoint out in one direction, then remove the cap that is outside the ears of the driveshaft. Then, you will have room to wiggle the rest of the ujoint out. To replace, take the cap off one side of your new ujoint. Be careful not to lose any needle bearings. They will be packed in grease and will stay put unless you bang the cap around. Anyway, put the end without the cap through one ear and re-install the new cap. Then just reverse press the whole thing back together. If it is inside clips, go ahead and install the c clip on the side that you didn't remove the new cap from.
Hope that all makes sense. It is quite easy and I have never compressed a set of "ears" that way. Good luck.
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1987 F250 6.9 4X4 - T19 Trans, 4.10 Dana 60 Front/Ford 10.25 rear, Dual Rear Wheels, Carter P4594 electric fuel pump, Restrictive air filter opened up, Firewall repair kit installed, new clutch m/cyl and pedal bracket, bushings etc.,7.3 fuel filter conversion, Solid state controller OEM (new controller and Motorcraft GP's), Headlights converted to relay system with 65/100 Watt Cold Ice bulbs, Class V Hitch (10,000lb WC/15,000lb WD), Air Horns, Cadet 7' X 9' flat dump bed, 5 ton grainmaster dump hoist.
Using sockets to push the ujoint, another socket to support the opposing ear, and a vice as a press, it can be done.
Before you get too far, you may consider reassembling and taking it to someone.
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'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
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Before you get too far, you may consider reassembling and taking it to someone.
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But then what would he learn? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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1987 F250 6.9 4X4 - T19 Trans, 4.10 Dana 60 Front/Ford 10.25 rear, Dual Rear Wheels, Carter P4594 electric fuel pump, Restrictive air filter opened up, Firewall repair kit installed, new clutch m/cyl and pedal bracket, bushings etc.,7.3 fuel filter conversion, Solid state controller OEM (new controller and Motorcraft GP's), Headlights converted to relay system with 65/100 Watt Cold Ice bulbs, Class V Hitch (10,000lb WC/15,000lb WD), Air Horns, Cadet 7' X 9' flat dump bed, 5 ton grainmaster dump hoist.
But then what would he learn? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
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I 100% agree !! The great part about my truck is that I get to tinker, the entire front clip has been on the ground for a week while I find my way around, prior to engine removal.
Oh yeah , Hi ! Newby here ! ( as if you hadn't noticed already)
welcome to the site shazaam. and yes that is the fun part to tinker!!
i second the part about a vise and sockets, i've even tried sockets and hammer under the truck that was fun! i'm going to try a c-clamp and sockets next time?
This is going to be a cheap word diagram on how to do it. You will use a large diameter socket on the back side, this will allow the Ujoint cap to slide into it. Then on the other side you will select a smaller diameter socket that is smaller than the Ujoint cap itself. This way it will fit into the ears as you use your vise to press it out. Then simply sandwich this in a vise and tighten away watching the joint move toward the larger socket. Do not use a deep well socket and most vices have a hard enough time opeing that far. Again I apoligize for the crappy word diagram but I cannot find a nice picture.
VISE BACK
Big Socket
U-Joint Cap
U-Joint Cross ----------------------Driveshaft Itself
U-Joint Cap
Small Socket
VISE FRONT
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First mark the driveshaft for correct realignment to the axle ...........always do that first.
Unless you want a shop to do it.....the way stated above is about the best for a shadetree mechanic. Use lots of release agent... If the new universal has a grease fitting ensure you install universal in correct position on the driveshaft so you can grease it.
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Thank you for all the help everyone. I used a large C-clamp and the sockets that people mentioned. It all went in well and I test drove my truck for a bit and all sounds great.
Thank you again.
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87 Ford F-350 4X4. 4 speed manual.
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