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6.9L Diesels Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 6.9 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

       
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Old 08-22-2008, 02:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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rebuild

next month ill be turning 16 and ive been looking at a friend of mines 84 F-250 6.9l. ive wanted the truck forever, it was my grandfathers service truck untill he bought his 02 a cupple years ago

the truck has 330k on it and still is running strong but since over 200k of those miles were put on with a minimum of 12k pounds in the utility body should i rebuild the engine or leave it. i will be putting a ats non wasitgated turbo on it if i get it (already have the turbo)

and if i should rebuild it where is a good kit that dosent cost to much
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Old 08-22-2008, 03:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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oh and it has a T-19 tranny in it
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1987 ford F-350 xlt lariat, full leather interior, 7.3L idi, banks turbo, E4OD, MBRP muffler, 6" lift, 38" superswampers for summer, 35" BFG all terrain for winter, bronze pearl paint

CURRENT PROJECTS
1979 ford F-350 custom 351m C6
soon to get a 7.3idi, ats non-waistgated turbo, 6" lift kit, Saphire blue paint, and much more

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2008 ford F-250 XLT with a 6.4L and a zf-6
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Old 08-24-2008, 11:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I would start by droping the oil pan and at the minimum, replace the lower rod bearings. While the pan is off, you can also check the oil squirters and make sure they are still in place.

Also take a look at the cylinder wall, you should be able to get a decent look at them. If none of the cylinders are scored or pitted, then you might be able to replace the pistons and rings, or just the rings.

On the upper end, I guess just pull the valve cover and check to make sure that you don't have excessive wear on the rollers for the valves. That usually happens after excessive idle time.

E-bay has some good master Kits, with .30 over pistons if you have to bore and hone the block. I think they are about 900 dollars.

I would take a look at the cylinder walls first, if you don't have to bore and hone the block, then you'll save some good money.
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Old 08-27-2008, 04:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
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WhiteGardens hit the nail on the head, one thing to add even if the walls are good and you dont pull the block at least reseal the motor. Some if not all of those gaskets have seen better days.
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Old 08-27-2008, 09:40 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Totally agree B-rad. I don't think I've seen an older diesel that didn't leak something.

Another thing I though of was to also replace all the glow-plugs and injectors. If you break one of them off, you've got the motor out to pull the heads easier.
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Install a set of ARP head studs or be ready to pull the motor again because the turbo caused a head gasket failure. Summit sells the 6.9 stud kit cheaper than ARP who makes the studs. Funny isn't it.
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