replacing a burnt valve - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Ford Diesel Forum / Powerstroke Forum
Go Back   Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > Ford Diesels > 6.9L Diesels

6.9L Diesels Technical discussion of topics related to vehicles powered by the 6.9 Liter In-Direct Injection Navistar engines.

TheDieselstop.com is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-27-2013, 01:24 PM   #1 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: alaska
Posts: 7
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
replacing a burnt valve

greetings from alaska and thanks in advance for any advice. been addicted to this forum since i bought a 86 F350 4 speed with the 7.3. I just came across another F350 6.9 c6 quad cab with a great body and am interested in swapping the engine and transmission into the new truck. However, the seller says "Has a burnt valve, runs but blows exhaust out the intake. Easy fix for the right mechanic or DIYer." The truck is about 100 miles from where i live so i don't want to have it towed. Are exhaust valves doable in a driveway in the winter time?
northernford is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-27-2013, 01:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Central Valley, Ca.
Posts: 15,648
My Photos: (7)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
Welcome to the Diesel Stop

You could do it under the right circumstances. Not snowing or raining would be the first thing. Freezing temps would probably deter you from grabbing a wrench, but you could wear gloves.

I would figure a trip to the machine shop in the total cost of the job, as you won't have any idea how much damage there is until you take the head off.

Then BEFORE you put it back together, you need to figure out WHY it happened, and address that issue so it doesn't happen again. If the seller has an idea, I would take it with a grain of salt.
__________________
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

PM please not visitor message
chuckster57 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-27-2013, 01:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: alaska
Posts: 7
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
so much to learn

thanks chuckster57. forgive my ignorance, when you say a trip to the machine shop would that be to have the burned valve reconditioned? If i'm not interested in keeping the 6.9 would i be better off loading the truck on a trailer and hauling it home?
northernford is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-27-2013, 02:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Central Valley, Ca.
Posts: 15,648
My Photos: (7)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
If all you want is the truck and not the drive train, I would drive it home. If you plan on repairing the 6.9, then I would trailer it home to avoid possible further damage.

What I meant by a trip to the machine shop is, yeah they can inspect the valve itself and the seat and guide. They will have the tools and equipment to replace/repair the seat and or guide and reface the valve if it can be saved.
__________________
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

PM please not visitor message
chuckster57 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2013, 08:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Cody, Wy
Posts: 9,991
My Photos: (27)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
thanks chuckster57. forgive my ignorance, when you say a trip to the machine shop would that be to have the burned valve reconditioned?
I wasted the better part of my life doing valve jobs and it's never standard procedure to grind or replace just one valve. All the valves are removed from the head, carbon removed, head checked for cracks, all valves are refaced at the proper angle. After grinding if the lip left on the valve edge is within specs it's OK to use. The seats are ground at 3 seperate angles ( e.g. 15, 45, and 60) and how the angles are done governs the contact area of the seat in regards to where it contacts the valve, which has to be correct---not too far out towards the lip. Also the contact area has to be a certain width, not too wide, not too narrow. There's way more to it than that, but thats some of the basics, point being a valve replacement isn't like changing a tire.
On Edit: If I remember right, flat rate labor for a complete valve job for two V8 heads (already removed) was right at 4.0 hours. Not including any special valve guide work.
__________________
Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.

Last edited by LMJD; 01-28-2013 at 08:55 AM.
LMJD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2013, 09:08 AM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Central Valley, Ca.
Posts: 15,648
My Photos: (7)
Feedback Score: 1 reviews
replacing a burnt valve

I agree, work on one valve is not the norm. Since I have a great relationship with my machine shop, I bet he would do just one.

One or sixteen valves, a proper complete valve job isn't something the average person can do at home. I have done benchtop valve jobs using nothing more than compound and a drill, but those were for customers that didn't have the funds for a trip to the shop.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
__________________
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
2012 Copper Canyon 273 FWRET w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here

PM please not visitor message
chuckster57 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2013, 09:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Cody, Wy
Posts: 9,991
My Photos: (27)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
One or sixteen valves, a proper complete valve job isn't something the average person can do at home.
Yep, there would be that $30,000+? valve grind machine.
Northernford, if you're interested you can probably search on YouTube and see videos of a working valve/seat grind machine. Kind of hard to describe with words and no pics.
__________________
Heavy truck and diesel mechanic (thankfully retired after 30+ yrs)
'91 F-250 SC 4X4, 5spd. ATS Turbo, 3:55 diff.
LMJD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2013, 12:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Pablo, Montana
Posts: 409
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Before you condemn a intake valve you should check and make sure that the exhaust lobe or the lifter is not worn for that cylinder.
__________________
Alvin Mitchell
Pablo Montana
1983 F250 4X4 4.10 gears 4 speed dana 50 center/44 outers Dana 70 rear
Mitchalvin is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 01-28-2013, 01:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: alaska
Posts: 7
My Photos: (0)
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
thanks for the info guys. in the end i really don't want the 6.9 but to get the truck home i would either have to drive with valves as they are or trailer it 100 miles north. i'm always cautious when someone trying to sell me something says it's an easy fix. the truck was owned by a church group and never driven so the body and interior are cherry. i have another 86 4door 4x4 that has the 7.3 in it but the truck looks like something out of mad max. i think i'll low ball an offer and try trailering
northernford is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com > Ford Diesels > 6.9L Diesels

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



Wheel & Tire Center

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:09 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.