smelled chicken and rice - burnt rubber - then shut down. now won't start
Title pretty much says it all.
87 F250.
I was on my way home, smelled chicken and rice then burnt rubber, then the truck just shut off. no weird sounds or anything....tried to crank and just get jud-jud-jud-jud-jud but won't turn over.
little background info - the engine was supposedly rebuilt 40,000 miles ago and the tranny was def rebuilt 3,000 miles ago.
I've only had it a month or so...just changed the fuel filter and put on a new starter (old one was apparently hanging by one bolt and had one crank to many like that)...
can't think of anything else that may help...
I thought maybe a belt of some sort broke but there appear to be no naked pulleys.
Make sure you are getting power at the FSS (fuel shut-off solenoid) both when you turn the key on and during cranking. Also check to see if any other circuits are dead. Sounds like you cooked something.
__________________
Red 86 F250 Supercab XLT, Longbed, 6.9l, 4 speed with DNE-2 Overdrive, 2WD, Reclining Highback Captains chairs with arm-rest, Holly Red pump, push-button glowplugs, Racor 645 water separator with fuel heater, K&N Air Filter, Headlight Relay Upgrade, lots of extra lights, Isspro EV series: Pyro, Oil Pressure, and Voltage in a Autometer 3 pod A-pillar. Bulldog Security System with remote entry. Remote lube TOB.
BOOB man - Brotherhood of Oil Burners
Last edited by Joe Mc : 07-31-2008 at 02:09 PM.
Reason: to run the spell check
If I disconnect and then reconnect a connection on the FSS while the ignition key is turned on, should I hear the FSS click or engage at all?
b/c I dont...
thanks
Yes you should. To be sure, it is the one to the rear on the drivers side of the IP. It will "click" ...time to start backtracing the wire if you don't have 12V at the connection.
__________________
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD, LB, Dually,
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco fifth wheel 323 RKS, Robins 16K dual axis hitch
Apillar pod with: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost
Hypermax Cowl induction, Flex-A-Lite 26K tranny cooler w/fan
K&N air filter (we'll see in a million miles)
Tekonsha "prodigy" brake control
Train Horns: Pictures here
Last edited by chuckster57 : 07-31-2008 at 06:23 PM.
Welcome to the forum UG! Glad to see you made the trip here! Hope you track down your electrical problem. One way you could easily check to see if that is the only problem stopping the engine from running would be to hook the terminal the red wire goes to up to the battery and try starting it. If it fires up then you know for sure its an electrical issue.
__________________
1984 F250 6.9 C6 2WD Pushbutton Wellman GPs, True Flow air filter, 7.3 IDI air cleaner Cover with no Soup bowl.
Yes you should. To be sure, it is the one to the rear on the drivers side of the IP. It will "click" ...time to start backtracing the wire if you don't have 12V at the connection.
The FSS is the front (lg) spade connector on the drivers side (USA) of the IP, the timing advance is the (sm) rear connector ..... see my photo link. Your truck should have the Solid State GP system so ensure the schematics you search for wiring info reflect that system.
__________________ http://photos.thedieselstop.com/show...0/ppuser/28329
93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93 has 160K+, it's basically a stock truck with all the Ford options, just no disc player.
Toys: 26'Jayco FK TT, 18'Sylvan Pro Fish.
Proud Canadian BOOB man too!!
Last edited by cdnsarguy : 07-31-2008 at 11:30 PM.
The FSS is the front (lg) spade connector on the drivers side (USA) of the IP, the timing advance is the (sm) rear connector ..... see my photo link.
Thanks for the correction. I was looking at your photo and then running outside to the driveway and trying it. I must have been standing on my head when I looked at the picture, Or I'm dyslexic (sp), or MOST PROBABLY I am getting old and suffering from short term CRS
__________________
1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD, LB, Dually,
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco fifth wheel 323 RKS, Robins 16K dual axis hitch
Apillar pod with: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost
Hypermax Cowl induction, Flex-A-Lite 26K tranny cooler w/fan
K&N air filter (we'll see in a million miles)
Tekonsha "prodigy" brake control
Train Horns: Pictures here
Thank you all! I'm really glad that I found this forum!
So I used a jumper wire to engage the FSS and I could hear it click, but it still wouldn't crank....
any idea what to look for next?
It seems weird that the FSS wasn't engaging - but that apparently isn't the problem?
my glow plug, or "wait to start" light isn't coming on at all when I turn the key....the guy that I bought it from had new gp's put in and a new gp relay...
I don't have a schematic of the wiring, but that doesn't sound right at all...
Depending on the type of fuses (the old style glass or blade), I'd put in a CB instead. If the fuse is the blade type, getting a CB to fit the holder is no issue (I did that w/ my tail/park lights on my pickup).
But the thing that bothers me is, what caused the fuse to blow???
__________________
1999 E-350 Cub Wagon, 7.3L Power Stroke, E4OD, 3.55
1990 E-350 Club Wagon, 7.3L IDI, E4OD, 3.54LS
1983 F-150 2x4, 4.9L, C-6 w/GV-OD, 3.55 Farm pickup
1981 C-8000, 3208 CAT, RT-6510, Rockwell SSHD Tandems (Swap)
1977 K100C, NTC-350, RT-1110, Tandem
1977 Transtar II, NTC-290, RT-9509 Single
1977 Transtar II, Formula 290, RT0-9513, Tandem
1974 C-750, 391CID, Clark 5 speed, Eaton 2 speed
1997 F350 4door 2wd long bed white 7.3L Powerstroke, E4OD, C5 4:10LS diff 326K miles on org engine
Linear Mode
