Hello again everyone [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
I just started to use my rear tank and I think there may be some old diesel in there or maybe I got some water in my fuel. And I am curious as to where the water/fuel seperator is. I thought it was near the rear firewall on the driver side, there is a filter there with what appers to be a knob on top (a plastic one that kinda looks like a cog) and on that filter there is what appers to be a drain on the bottom, and maybe a knob on that drain. Is that my water/fuel seperator?
Let me explain my problem. with my fuel problem the other day I decided to put some fuel in my rear tank. And my truck runs fine on the rear tank but sometimes it acts like it is either running out of fuel or like there is water in the fuel or something that is making it hessitate. Then all of a sudden sometimes it will move like it is turbo charged. But most of the time it just runs fine. So I think either there is water in the fuel, or there may have been some old diesel left in there and it isn't really fresh so it is having a harder time burning it. I switched back to my front tank until I hear some advice from you all.
What would happen if I put something like HEET into the rear tank? Don't worry I didn't do it, I was curious if I could [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] I seem to think I can't [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] Would it be benificial to put some sort of additive in the tank? Something like Canadian Tires three in one fuel conditioner? Or is there soemthing else that would be better. My truck runs great on the front tank so I am not in a hurry to run the other tank [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] But I just want my truck to run as good as possiable [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
Any info you all can provide is greatly appreciated [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] thank you again.
Luke
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87 Ford F-350 4X4. 4 speed manual.
i think you are talking about the water/fuel seperator on the fire wall, i belive if there is alot of water so sort of sock on the pick will not let in out? why don't they put a drain on the tank? and what would dry the water up? these are good questions i think? monday i will be the new owner of a 87 f250!!!! so these are the things i need to know? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]
Get some Stanadyne fuel additive from your local Stanadyne dealer, unless CTC stuff stated FOR DIESEL on the bottle don't trust it works in our trucks.
Is the rear tank anywhere near 1/4 full, there is a problem with the fuel sender pickups breaking off at 1/4 full and you run out of fuel.
Water is very bad for our systems, drain any water from the fuel filter with the spigot on it. Catch it in a margerine tub.
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93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93
Toys: 2006 37' Triple E Embassy coach (powered by Cummins), 18' Sylvan Pro Fish with Mariner motors.
Proud Canadian BOOB man too!!
Please PRIVATE MESSAGE only!! ...
Please DO NOT.....visitor message me...
To successfully avoid those repairs I would dump 3-4 bottles of PowerServe, then Standyne, also Fred's Hair Tonic.
MoreBetter
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'93 F-250 IDI, 4x4, K&N, no soup bowl, stock, with 265,XXX miles 5 speed, 3.55, kind of new LUK clutch, runs great, starts great, it is great. The truck is getting old.
1 WICKLIFF DIESEL SERVICE BOWLING GREEN KY Service Dealer X
2 DIESEL INJECTION SERVICE CO., INC. LOUISVILLE KY Central Distributor X
3 DIESEL POWER, INC. PADUACH KY Service Dealer X
4 DIESEL POWER SYSTEMS SOMERSET KY Service Dealer
For BC Canada
9 VALLEY FUEL INJECTION LTD. ABBOTSFORD BC Service Dealer X
10 C.R. DIESEL AND TURBO CAMPBELL RIVER BC Service Dealer X
11 KOOTENAY FUEL INJECTION INC. CRANBROOK BC Service Dealer X
12 NORTHERN DIESEL SERVICES, LTD. DAWSON CREEK BC Service Dealer X
13 KAMLOOPS FUEL INJECTION LTD. KAMLOOPS BC Service Dealer
14 THOMPSON VALLEY DIESEL INJECTION KAMLOOPS BC Service Dealer
15 DYNAMIC FUEL INJECTION & TURBO LTD. LANGLEY BC Service Dealer
16 ACTION FUEL INJECTION NANAIMO BC Service Dealer
17 FRED-HOLMES FUEL INJECTION PRINCE GEORGE BC Service Dealer
18 FRED-HOLMES FUEL INJECTION RICHMOND BC Service Dealer
19 N.W. FUEL INJECTION SERVICE, LTD. SURREY BC Service Dealer X
20 OKANAGAN DIESEL INJECTION VERNON BC Service Dealer X
I forgot to mention that the tank is full of fuel (or nearly full). The additive that I talked about does say Diesel fuel conditioner. But I want to do it all right.
Thank you all for your help.
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87 Ford F-350 4X4. 4 speed manual.
I should warn you that if you pull the ring on the firewall there you may find yourself with a bad air leak if you can't get it to completely reseal. I think Mel (Agenem) and a couple of other members have found a way to fix it for cheap. The best fix is an aftermarket water sep. Pete is right...water is death on these fuel systems....since I knew the factory sep system was bad I bypassed it pretty quick so I can't tell you that much about it. I would say though...avoid stuff like HEET or anything that has alcohol in it. It is generally very bad for diesel fuel injection systems.
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J.D.'s Fords: 1986 F-250 6.9 diesel Solid State Glow Plug System 3.55 gears C-6 2WD 178,960 miles.... it still runs pretty good!
Wishlist H-max turbo, T19 tranny,
1989 Ford Ranger ga$$er, non runner, soon to be donated or scrapped!
[ QUOTE ]
....since I knew the factory sep system was bad ....
[/ QUOTE ]
I've been wondering, is the stock system ineffective or just prone to leak? If it is simply prone to leak, the best way to fix it would be to put a small petcock in the drain line and be done.
I've been thinking about re-installing mine with a petcock if they are effective but prone to leak. Does anyone know?
Thanks,
Devo
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Work like there is a tomorrow and play like there isn't.
87 F250 Lariat SC LB 4X4 with an NA 6.9, C6 with deep pan and 4.10's. Dana 50 IFS up front. 263K mi. 3" exhaust, Ram air. New aluminum radiator and coolant filter Sep 09.
96 F350 CC LB 4X4 AT 292K- creamed by Brain Dead Cager turning left 02/18/10 RIP
The main problem was, when you pulled the ring to drain the separator it would NOT shut compleatly consequently air would be sucked into the fuel system. So the fix was to put a bolt and clamp on the drain line. A petcock on the line would serve the same purpose as the bolt and be easier to work with. You would still have to pull the ring though.
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93 F250 7.3 IDI S/C XLT 4X4 E40D 3.55LS, Captains chairs, Tutone Mocha, Leer 48" Hiboy cap, FR & RR hitches, full DeeZee running boards. Factory ordered/delivered Jan 93
Toys: 2006 37' Triple E Embassy coach (powered by Cummins), 18' Sylvan Pro Fish with Mariner motors.
Proud Canadian BOOB man too!!
Please PRIVATE MESSAGE only!! ...
Please DO NOT.....visitor message me...
Mine leaked around the pin that the ring attached to. I got a water in fuel light once, pulled the ring knowing the possibilities for a leak, and knowing the bolt/clamp trick and planned on doing that. Unfortunately, when I pulled the ring, fuel came rushing out around the pin and I could not get it sealed.
As my signature says, I now have the 7.3 system installed and it works very well. I also have a Permacool filter/separator before my Carter P4594 fuel pump as well. I have drained it once, but found no water (drained into a glass jar and let sit). Since removing the stock separator, I have had a fuel in water light on, I need to determine which wire on that separator is the one for the fuel in water light and wire it to the 7.3 unit. Just haven't had/taken the time to do it yet! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
If you have access to a salvage yard that will sell them, I highly recommend switching to the 7.3 system. It is very simple, the 7.3 head bolted right to my 6.9 head, lines are the same (inlet/outlet) and then it is just a matter of hooking up the wires. I have my heater hooked up, but need to get the water in fuel and filter wires hooked up.
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1987 F250 6.9 4X4 - T19 Trans, 4.10 Dana 60 Front/Ford 10.25 rear, Dual Rear Wheels, Carter P4594 electric fuel pump, Restrictive air filter opened up, Firewall repair kit installed, new clutch m/cyl and pedal bracket, bushings etc.,7.3 fuel filter conversion, Solid state controller OEM (new controller and Motorcraft GP's), Headlights converted to relay system with 65/100 Watt Cold Ice bulbs, Class V Hitch (10,000lb WC/15,000lb WD), Air Horns, Cadet 7' X 9' flat dump bed, 5 ton grainmaster dump hoist.
From the symptoms you describe it sounds like an air leak in the rear tank. It could be a cracked pickup tube or a leak in the gel bypass valve. The bypass valve is located at the 1/4 tank level, have you noticed if the problem happens at, or below a certain fuel level?
Your description of the separator sounds different from the stock one, a picture is worth a thousand words. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]
__________________ Red 86 F250 Supercab XLT: Longbed, 6.9l, 4 speed with DNE-2 Overdrive, 2WD, 10.25 Sterling 4:11, Reclining Highback Captains chairs with arm-rest, Holly Red pump, push-button glowplugs, Racor 645 water separator with fuel heater, K&N Air Filter, Headlight Relay Upgrade, Fog Lights, lots of extra lights, Isspro EV series: Pyro, Oil Pressure, and Voltage in a Autometer 3 pod A-pillar. Bulldog Security System with remote entry. Offset Mirror Upgrade, Remote lube TOB. Road Watch System coming soon. PB PS PW PDL CC AC IW BOOB man - Brotherhood of Oil Burners
1995 Toyota Camry DX: 2.2L, Bolt-action 5-speed, AC, PS, PB, CC.
Triple A-pillar pod: Isspro EV voltage and oil-pressure gauges.
Road-Watch System (Air and road-surface temperature gauge).
Chicken Lights Gone.
I was wondering if it could be air in the system as well. The tank is full (it was totally full and I ran it for just a little bit, so it should still be at least 80% full). The front tank runs flawlessly though.
And I will get a picture of everything under my hood today, my gf is comeing with her digital camera so I can send pics of my truck back to my family in Colorado.
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87 Ford F-350 4X4. 4 speed manual.
With that much fuel it is not the bypass valve, the valve is down at the quarter tank level. It could still be a cracked pickup tube or an air leak in the line from the selector valve and the rear tank. Naturally it is harder to get to the top of the rear tank, on most of these trucks.
__________________ Red 86 F250 Supercab XLT: Longbed, 6.9l, 4 speed with DNE-2 Overdrive, 2WD, 10.25 Sterling 4:11, Reclining Highback Captains chairs with arm-rest, Holly Red pump, push-button glowplugs, Racor 645 water separator with fuel heater, K&N Air Filter, Headlight Relay Upgrade, Fog Lights, lots of extra lights, Isspro EV series: Pyro, Oil Pressure, and Voltage in a Autometer 3 pod A-pillar. Bulldog Security System with remote entry. Offset Mirror Upgrade, Remote lube TOB. Road Watch System coming soon. PB PS PW PDL CC AC IW BOOB man - Brotherhood of Oil Burners
1995 Toyota Camry DX: 2.2L, Bolt-action 5-speed, AC, PS, PB, CC.
Triple A-pillar pod: Isspro EV voltage and oil-pressure gauges.
Road-Watch System (Air and road-surface temperature gauge).
Chicken Lights Gone.
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