What part is this? - Diesel Forum

Eep · 09-22-2012, 06:35 PM

Can someone please tell me if the part in this picture -

http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/...1&d=1348356522

Is the same part as the one below, from rockauto.com?

More Information for MOTORCRAFT SW1507B

They look similar, but not identical. And I am not sure if the new one, if correct, would have to be mounted differently.

dieselnoob4 · 09-22-2012, 09:30 PM

To me they look the same, except for the new one has 2 small terminals instead of just one. I think the way they have the photo angled makes it look different. When I bought a starter relay for my truck, it was just like the pic of the new one you posted. It also has the 2 small terminals, and you just don't use one of them (the instructions should say which one to use). Also, I believe some trucks use a relay with the 2 big terminals coming out from the front, instead of facing away from each other on the sides, so you might see some being sold that look like that too. I would go with the one that is similar to what you already have though.

LMJD · 09-23-2012, 06:07 AM

They're not quite the same. The one with two small terminals is an old style starter solenoid. While cranking, the extra terminal shoots 12 volts to the dristributor points bypassing the ballast resistor. That one is not made for constant duty, whereas the other style is available in constant or non-constant duty.

Eep · 09-23-2012, 06:16 PM

Thanks for your reply's. LMJD - I cannot (yet) find one just like the one currently in my truck. So, you would not recommend the one I found for sale through rock auto? I do not understand if you are saying that the one I have currently is for constant or non-constant duty. And I should only get one that is identical to the one currently in the truck? Rather than just not using one of those small terminals on the new one, if that would make it run similar to the one I currently have?

LMJD · 09-24-2012, 07:29 AM

You're welcome. The one on your pickup would not be constant duty. I've run into the constant duty ones in years past used on certain weirdo specialized equipment on trucks where the solenoid stays energized for hours but doesn't overheat. (Can't think of an example right now) The one with the two small terminals, which is not constant duty, should work just fine. Just make sure you hook the small wire to the correct terminal, one will energize it but the other one won't.

Eep · 09-25-2012, 07:50 PM

Thanks. I really appreciate the help. Would I be correct in guessing that I would know if I have the small wire connected to the right terminal and thus energize it, by the engine turning over? If I connect the small wire to the wrong terminal would I do any damage to anything?

LMJD · 09-26-2012, 05:20 AM

Quote:

Would I be correct in guessing that I would know if I have the small wire connected to the right terminal and thus energize it, by the engine turning over?

Right, and if connected to the wrong one no damage but the solenoid will not be energized.
If I remember right most of them had a tiny letter under each small terminal, might have been S for starter (the one you want to use) and I for ignition.

Eep · 10-28-2012, 10:57 AM

The rockautoparts link I gave above no longer carries this part. Doing a search using the OEM part number given in the out of stock rock auto page, I came up with this supplier:

OEM Ford E7HZ11450A

But they do not give a picture of the part...Would I assume it is the correct part? Has anyone here used this Ford Parts store before with good success? Could not find this part at The Diesel Store. Thanks

leyrret · 11-13-2012, 06:05 PM

Those come in several internal wiring variations. If your using it as a simple starter relay and have a NAPA close by, try #ST82. It should look exactly like the one pictured.

NH2112 · 11-13-2012, 07:12 PM

Sometimes a solenoid will have 2 small studs if the mounting base isn't grounded. The 2nd stud simply grounds the coil, and it doesn't matter which one you connect to the switch. The older GM 6.2l glow plug relays were this style. But like LMJD said, 1 stud should be labeled "S" for switch, and the other "I".

LMJD · 11-14-2012, 06:15 AM

Beg to differ. If you have an S and I, the "S" small terminal stands for "starter", in other words it, and only it, energized the solenoid to send juice to the starter (or whatever component the solenoid is used for). The "I" terminal stands for "ignition", it shoots a straight 12 volts to a distributor while the engine is cranking (solenoid is energized) for easier starting on ancient ignition systems, bypassing the 9V ballast resistor that feeds primary juice to the distributor once the engine is running. You don't want to ground EITHER small terminal.

Of course there's all different kinds. Ran into a lot of them on self contained hyd units like above, IIRC they're constant duty and only have the one energizing terminal.

NH2112 · 11-14-2012, 03:16 PM

No, definitely don't ground the "I" terminal, but what I was saying is that some relays don't ground the coil through the mounting bracket. Rather, one of the small terminals is B+ and the other is the ground. The old NAPA electrical book had schematics for the relays, which told you how they were wired internally. Of course, the new & improved book doesn't have them.

Eep · 11-17-2012, 10:46 AM

Thanks for the follow-up reply's. I bought the OEM relay from the parts supplier I gave in my post on 10/28, and it looks identical to the picture for the part I gave a link for from rock auto site on my original 9/22 post. But it is not identical to the one that is currently in my truck, like I said in that first post... The one in my truck now for the one and only small stud is labeled "s". The new one, like in the pic, has 2 small studs, one "s" and one labeled "i".

I am about to leave and have my mechanic friend do a few things to my truck - my return injector lines are visibly leaking fuel, so all of them will be replaced from a kit with clamps, while I may tackle this starter relay replacement. I/we will only hook up the new relay to the "s" small stud. Also plan on removing rear diff. cover, draining the gear oil, re-seal cover w/Ford silicone, and re-fill with fresh gear oil.

Next on the list another day is an anti-freeze flush to get the current green prestone/yellow bottle coolant out, and change to Fleetcharge (been reading another topic here about how to do that...). And also may tackle the front diff. gear oil change, although my friend says that may be trickie due to possible damage to the front axle parts - more on that later after a better evaluation... Also need to replace the turbo

Eep · 11-18-2012, 05:37 PM

Some of yesterdays projects went well, one not so good. The return fuel injector lines were replaced by my friend no problem. Just did the lines and new clamps, not the plastic T parts, so he did not remove the steel lines. Rear differential cover was removed, oil drained, cleaned cover, which did have a fair amount of metallic particles unfortunately... resealed cover and added oil.

Starter relay on fender was replaced. Engine cranked and turned right over first time. But then it would not crank the next time. Should have done this earlier I know, but it was not until this point that my mechanic friend got underneath the engine and took a close look at the starter motor. Apparently there is a strap that connects from inside the starter to the solenoid that is attached on top of the starter motor. This strap was worn out and partially broken and not making a good connection. While my friend was underneath pushing the strap into the starter and me trying to start the engine in the cab with the key we eventually got it to crank and turn over. My friend said the starter installed now is a GM part. He said this is rare, but he has seen it before...

Is ACDELCO considered a GM brand part? I found this new acdelco starter motor on rockauto.com:

More Information for ACDELCO 3371076

But the same site also had a Motorcraft Remanufactured starter for this truck:

More Information for MOTORCRAFT SA740ARM

My friend recommended getting new, not remanufactured and like the one that is on it now - meaning a GM brand. So, can someone please help me out and recommend what stater motor to get for my '84 F250 6.9L engine? Thanks!

LMJD · 11-18-2012, 06:33 PM

Your friend is right, these early engines originally came with Delco (GM) starters. Their failure rate was extremely high and it didn't take FoMoCo or Navistar long to switch to Mitsubishi and Nippondenso high quality starters. That's what you want to get for a replacement.
I'm having a brain fade. I think your second pic is the Mitsubishi. I should recognize it since I had mine off for an overhaul summer before last. If I'm right it will have the tiny Mitsubishi car emblem stamped on the housing somewhere.