i have a 6.9 and it wont charge. i took it to advanced and got an alternator and went through 3 in the past week. they put some kinda tester on my truck and said there was a problem with my truck drawing current. what could this be? what could be going on? all this electrical is not my kind. any help would be appreciated.
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1984 Ford f250, recent 7.3 swap, 4x4, 4 speed, 35"s, 5" stack , turned up fuel and advanced timing
1994 Ford f350, 7.3, 4x4, auto, crew cab long bed, strait piped.
I know yours is not a powerstroke but here is the procedure to test for current draw. (copied from another thread)
I do it with the negative leads off and use test light between the negative cable and the negative post on battery.
This is the procedure I follow:
If no other electrical accessory are causing the battery to drain over night a manual draw check of the electrical system will need to be performed. What this means is you will be checking the electrical draw the battery has on it when the car is locked up, with the key in the "off" position". First open the hood and disable the under hood illumination light, if equipped. Next, with the key off and the doors locked wait 15 minutes, then disconnect the battery cable on the negative side. (The 15 minute wait allows the computers to go into "sleep mode" and shuts down all electrical). Attach a test light between the negative battery cable end and the negative battery terminal. The test light should illuminate dimly or not at all. If the test light is on brightly there is a strong electrical draw in the system. To locate this electrical draw start removing fuses one at a time. When the test light goes out the circuit in question has been located.
Note added:
when disconnecting the battery cables, the test light (or better, a good quality ammeter) should be installed across the first cable and the battery post, then the second battery disconnected. If you totally disconnect and reconnect, the GEM and other electronic modules "wake up" and draw more current. In normal "sleep mode" the total amp draw should be less than 50 milliamps.
A fairly common battery drain point is back thru the alternator if a diode goes bad. That usually kills the batteries in short order, but there may be a lower level leakage. Be sure to include disconnecting the alternator lead as one of the steps in finding the drain.
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1994 F-350 7.3 IDI Turbo, crew cab, E4OD,4:10 L/S, LB, Dually Photos
ATS Turbo upgrades: 3" DP with 3" exhaust Magnaflow XL muffler: Pictures Here
1997 Jayco 323RKS fifth wheel w/2 slides, Air Lift 5000 bags
Pillar pod: Autometer C2 Series gauges: pyro,trans, boost, water, oil pressure
Hypermax Cowl induction, K&N air filter, flex-a-lite 26K trans cooler with fan,Tekonsha prodigy
Train Horns: Pictures here
Next step would be to have them test the batteries, a bad cell would kill both overnight. Also check the small ground wire that goes to the voltage regulator, it should be tight under one of the two bolts that hold the regulator to the fender-well.
__________________ Red 86 F250 Supercab XLT: Longbed, 6.9l, 4 speed with DNE-2 Overdrive, 2WD, 10.25 Sterling 4:11, Reclining Highback Captains chairs with arm-rest, Holly Red pump, push-button glowplugs, Racor 645 water separator with fuel heater, K&N Air Filter, Headlight Relay Upgrade, Fog Lights, lots of extra lights, Isspro EV series: Pyro, Oil Pressure, and Voltage in a Autometer 3 pod A-pillar. Bulldog Security System with remote entry. Offset Mirror Upgrade, Remote lube TOB. Road Watch System coming soon. PB PS PW PDL CC AC IW BOOB man - Brotherhood of Oil Burners
1995 Toyota Camry DX: 2.2L, Bolt-action 5-speed, AC, PS, PB, CC.
Triple A-pillar pod: Isspro EV voltage and oil-pressure gauges.
Road-Watch System (Air and road-surface temperature gauge).
Chicken Lights Gone.
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