Ive been having fuel supply problems lately due to a weak after-market electric supply pump and parking on inclines. but the other day I was parked flat, and it started up fine, but died halfway through the glow-plug cycle, which is typical of this fuel supply problem. but being parked flat I didn't think it was a big gap in the fuel line, and so I kept cranking, and ended up shorting my auxiliary battery ground in the back.
since then I replaced the old broken cam pump, and re-routed the fuel lines to normal, I bled them, being sure to get all the air out of the fuel filter, but the thing still won't start, Ive been charging the battery more or less constantly for the last two days, and I try to start it until it dies. then charge it again, the battery seems to be holding its charge just fine, it reads 12.9V after charge and cranks at normal rpm, but the thing still won't start. any ideas what the problem might be?
Was your new lift pump(cam pump) the new straight-arm style and if so did you follow the install instructions that should have came with it exactly? The new improved style is very easy to install wrong. Do a flow and pressure test on the new pump, not all new parts are good. 4 to 6 pounds at the Schrader valve and a 3rd of a pint or more with 10 seconds cranking.
When it would die shortly after starting sounds like an air-leak in the fuel system.
Like Justin said, check the glowplugs.
__________________ Red 86 F250 Supercab XLT: Longbed, 6.9l, 4 speed with DNE-2 Overdrive, 2WD, 10.25 Sterling 4:11, Reclining Highback Captains chairs with arm-rest, Holly Red pump, push-button glowplugs, Racor 645 water separator with fuel heater, K&N Air Filter, Headlight Relay Upgrade, Fog Lights, lots of extra lights, Isspro EV series: Pyro, Oil Pressure, and Voltage in a Autometer 3 pod A-pillar. Bulldog Security System with remote entry. Offset Mirror Upgrade, Remote lube TOB. Road Watch System coming soon. PB PS PW PDL CC AC IW BOOB man - Brotherhood of Oil Burners
1995 Toyota Camry DX: 2.2L, Bolt-action 5-speed, AC, PS, PB, CC.
Triple A-pillar pod: Isspro EV voltage and oil-pressure gauges.
Road-Watch System (Air and road-surface temperature gauge).
Chicken Lights Gone.
yeah, lift pump is working well, and I checked the glow plugs, they all read at 1 ohm. which from what Ive read is still a good reading, Im going to check the IP, could it have failed as a result of air in the system? the glow plug relay and glow plugs seem to be working normally, so I don't think there are any problems there, but could another system failed from an electrical overload? further, my batteries hold their charge, and read 12.8-9V at full, but completely lose cranking power after a few cranks, whereas I used to be able to crank for what seemed like days before they would lose power, would this be a battery problem or possibly a problem somewhere else?
Make sure the red wire on the injection pump is getting power and if it is check for fuel to the injectors by loosening one of the lines at the injector
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-Justin
1984 F250 6.9 C6 2WD Push Button Wellman GPs, No Soup bowl. Wix 33439 Water Separator, Carter P4594 fuel pump, Custom 3" Exhaust, NTZ Oil Bypass Filter, VDO Vision water temp gauge, ISSPRO EV Pyro
Your batteries are undoubtedly toast at this point. To check them, do the following.
Disconnect them from the truck AND each other. Charge them up. If you have a regulated charger, wait for it to click off. You'll want to measure voltage during the charge cycle and immediately after. Most chargers should give you 13.5 or so. When the charger clicks off, voltage should immediately drop to around 12.9. Let the batteries cool and rest for about an hour, then go back and check them again. You should see something like 12.2v if they are fully charged and in good condition. If they are not fully charged, but are in good condition, you might see something more like 11.9v. Anything less than that and its time for a new battery.
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86 F250 Extended cab, 4x4, T-18/T-19, custom drive shafts. Time for axle upgrades.
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