Just wondering if there are any major differences between pulling an 18 foot vs a 16 foot car trailer. I realize turning corners will be a bit more tedious, but does a longer trailer add anything else to consider while towing? I do not intend to have the trailer weighing even over 5000K loaded so going over max capacity is not a problem, only length.
I am primarily using the trailer to haul four 4 wheelers, fire wood, and related equipment. I will be towing this with my 2002 signature truck.
Thanks for any comments!
Dan
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2002 F350 4x4 CC V10 4.30
Custom Y pipe, Flowmaster 70, SCMT
I would go for the 18' thinking that the dovetail on the back will be longer than the 16ft one.
Loading racecars in the past for me has been an issue bottoming out on trailers with a short dovetail.
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Remember, this is the internet, where everyone's a diesel mechanic and has 500+hp/1000+lb/ft under the hood! Read up, form your own opinions, then do your own real-world testing!
'01 PSD F-250 XLT SC LB 2WD 6SPD 3.73LS, Alliant AC's,ARP Studs, Stealth Dual HPOPs, GTP38R, Forged Rods balanced, Fluidampr, South Bend CON OFE, 6.0L Intercooler, Volant Intake, 4" SS MBRP Exhaust, A-Pillar mounted Lunar Series Boost/Pyro Gauges,4 pos. Chip with Stealth burns from Twildman, playing with Minotaur Tuning software too, heated Racor 900FH 2 micron, Hutch mods, harpoon mod, DIY Regulated Return, 203 T-stat, coolant filter, AIH gone, CCV Mod, boost pressure relief valve, 100 gallon tank/toolbox combo...AutoEnginuity diagnostics for all Domestics
18' all the way. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] I stared out with a 16' then to a 18' now I have a 20' open car trailer and think that it is perfect for me.
I've been contemplating the same thing and have pretty much the same needs as you. I'm currently looking pretty hard at <font color="red">THIS</font> trailer from H&H. I figure it will do anything I need and more at this time. I don't think you'll even notice the extra 2 feet back there.
I've never heard of a trailer being "TOO BIG". The bigger & longer they are the easier they are to maneuver, load, and they pull & ride nicer. Only problem is the extra couple hundred pounds of empty weight detracts from payload cap.
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Denny
'96 F-250 Reg. Cab 4X4 5-sp POWERSTROKE
294,000 mi & NO Problems, LUK Clutch
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I would go for the 18' thinking that the dovetail on the back will be longer than the 16ft one.
Loading racecars in the past for me has been an issue bottoming out on trailers with a short dovetail.
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99% of the time, the dovetail is going to be the same length. on a 16' trailer you have 14' flat + 2' dovetail ... on 18' you have 16' flat + 2' dovetail. but you can special order anyway you like, most trailer mfg. will build to suit. a "true" car hauler is built lower so bottoming out usually isn't an issue.
as for 16' or 18', you won't notice much difference in maneuvering. its better to have too much, than not enough!!!
99% of the time, the dovetail is going to be the same length. on a 16' trailer you have 14' flat + 2' dovetail ... on 18' you have 16' flat + 2' dovetail. but you can special order anyway you like, most trailer mfg. will build to suit. a "true" car hauler is built lower so bottoming out usually isn't an issue.
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Around here trailer dealers have 2' and 4' dovetails all the time. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif[/img]
My tubbed and narrowed race car is pretty low and did scrape on my buddies 16' with 2' dovetail. Not on the 18 w/ 4' dovetail. Guess I need to raise my racecar. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]
__________________
Remember, this is the internet, where everyone's a diesel mechanic and has 500+hp/1000+lb/ft under the hood! Read up, form your own opinions, then do your own real-world testing!
'01 PSD F-250 XLT SC LB 2WD 6SPD 3.73LS, Alliant AC's,ARP Studs, Stealth Dual HPOPs, GTP38R, Forged Rods balanced, Fluidampr, South Bend CON OFE, 6.0L Intercooler, Volant Intake, 4" SS MBRP Exhaust, A-Pillar mounted Lunar Series Boost/Pyro Gauges,4 pos. Chip with Stealth burns from Twildman, playing with Minotaur Tuning software too, heated Racor 900FH 2 micron, Hutch mods, harpoon mod, DIY Regulated Return, 203 T-stat, coolant filter, AIH gone, CCV Mod, boost pressure relief valve, 100 gallon tank/toolbox combo...AutoEnginuity diagnostics for all Domestics
LOL! I realize that. I actually knew a salesman that hauled them the east coast.
__________________
Remember, this is the internet, where everyone's a diesel mechanic and has 500+hp/1000+lb/ft under the hood! Read up, form your own opinions, then do your own real-world testing!
'01 PSD F-250 XLT SC LB 2WD 6SPD 3.73LS, Alliant AC's,ARP Studs, Stealth Dual HPOPs, GTP38R, Forged Rods balanced, Fluidampr, South Bend CON OFE, 6.0L Intercooler, Volant Intake, 4" SS MBRP Exhaust, A-Pillar mounted Lunar Series Boost/Pyro Gauges,4 pos. Chip with Stealth burns from Twildman, playing with Minotaur Tuning software too, heated Racor 900FH 2 micron, Hutch mods, harpoon mod, DIY Regulated Return, 203 T-stat, coolant filter, AIH gone, CCV Mod, boost pressure relief valve, 100 gallon tank/toolbox combo...AutoEnginuity diagnostics for all Domestics
I have a 20ft steel deck, with a 4ft dove, pull-out 6ft ramps, 4500lb winch, built-in recessed-in-bed tool/supply box, spare tire front-mounted, stake pockets, 6 d-rings, elec brakes and nice alum diamond plate trim so my Cobra looks pretty sitting up there! It really depends on what you want the trailer for, I haul my race car, and pickup & deliver cars/trucks I buy, I haul hay and my tractor on it, and use it for all types of general purposes. If you are hauling a race car, get a 20-ft with low mounted fenders so you can open your car doors while the car is on the trailer. The things that make it so very nice are the in-bed tool box for all your tie downs, staps, little odds & ends like fuel & air battery for the winch (to pull the car up after you have broke in a 10-sec run down the strip, or to pull up that 2000lb round bale of hay...) the spare tire mount on the front so it doesnt block access to the car... etc, etc. This is my third car-haul trailer, and every time I change out I add on extras to make it that much easier to use, and then use it that much more. I started with a 16 wood deck, then to a 20 steel that was nice, then to a decked out 20. Watch out for things like the ramps that slide out of side, when you are at the races and someone pulls besides you, you cant get the ramps out (or back in) without moving the trailer. You cant have too many d-rings. Having a multi purpose trailer you will have lots and lots of friends who always seem to be in-need...
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2001 F350 CC Dually, PSD, auto, billet grill, APC Projector Headlights, euroclear corners, 04 lighted/heated TT Mirrors, CD6, DVD system, Sony Speakers, Walker BTM, Isspro 3-gauge, 05 emblems, home made intake
2003 F350 CC Dually, FX4 4X4, auto, 7.3 just getting started...Banks 3-Gauge A-Pod, Banks Big Head, Banks Exhaust Brake, Banks Ottomind, Stinger Exhaust, Jensen Flip-up DVD/Stereo, Sirus receiver, 7" monitors in head rests, Boston speakers in all 4, 2-12" Boston subs, amp.
[ QUOTE ]
I have a 20ft steel deck, with a 4ft dove, pull-out 6ft ramps, 4500lb winch, built-in recessed-in-bed tool/supply box, spare tire front-mounted, stake pockets, 6 d-rings, elec brakes and nice alum diamond plate trim so my Cobra looks pretty sitting up there! It really depends on what you want the trailer for, I haul my race car, and pickup & deliver cars/trucks I buy, I haul hay and my tractor on it, and use it for all types of general purposes. If you are hauling a race car, get a 20-ft with low mounted fenders so you can open your car doors while the car is on the trailer. The things that make it so very nice are the in-bed tool box for all your tie downs, staps, little odds & ends like fuel & air battery for the winch (to pull the car up after you have broke in a 10-sec run down the strip, or to pull up that 2000lb round bale of hay...) the spare tire mount on the front so it doesnt block access to the car... etc, etc. This is my third car-haul trailer, and every time I change out I add on extras to make it that much easier to use, and then use it that much more. I started with a 16 wood deck, then to a 20 steel that was nice, then to a decked out 20. Watch out for things like the ramps that slide out of side, when you are at the races and someone pulls besides you, you cant get the ramps out (or back in) without moving the trailer. You cant have too many d-rings. Having a multi purpose trailer you will have lots and lots of friends who always seem to be in-need...
[/ QUOTE ]
HOLY COW can I buy your trailer next time you upgrade? [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]
__________________
Remember, this is the internet, where everyone's a diesel mechanic and has 500+hp/1000+lb/ft under the hood! Read up, form your own opinions, then do your own real-world testing!
'01 PSD F-250 XLT SC LB 2WD 6SPD 3.73LS, Alliant AC's,ARP Studs, Stealth Dual HPOPs, GTP38R, Forged Rods balanced, Fluidampr, South Bend CON OFE, 6.0L Intercooler, Volant Intake, 4" SS MBRP Exhaust, A-Pillar mounted Lunar Series Boost/Pyro Gauges,4 pos. Chip with Stealth burns from Twildman, playing with Minotaur Tuning software too, heated Racor 900FH 2 micron, Hutch mods, harpoon mod, DIY Regulated Return, 203 T-stat, coolant filter, AIH gone, CCV Mod, boost pressure relief valve, 100 gallon tank/toolbox combo...AutoEnginuity diagnostics for all Domestics
we have a 16' right now and its nice but would rather have a 18'. the good news is that were looking to buy a 30' duall wheel tandam axle 8'wide goose neck trailer to hall biger tractors on and big round bales and also our watter tank for spraying and what ever else fits our fancy. itll be pretty nice in the spring the water taink on the 30'r and 2 pallets of seed on the 16'r and mabe even a pallet on the truck pulling the 16'r and well be ready to go to the feild.
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Early '99 excab long bed with a 7.3 and a six speed 4X4 Ultra lite pryo, boost, eng oil temp, tranny temp, diff temp DP 5po stock, hi idal, 80, 100, 120 BDP domminator turbo, 4" turbo back, open air intake, WARN hubs, '03 head lights, Recon led tail & third brake lights,. Dads is a '03 regular cab w/flatbed 7.3 w/auto tranny 4X4, Edge evulation open air intake.
--Also drive a '05 378 Peaterbilt w/C15 525hp Twin turbos 13speed 3 drive axels 55'long w/a Haybuster haygrinder mouted on it w/650hp C15 Cat powering the grinder w/flued cuppler clutch and hydra boom True diesel power
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