does any one know now to run two brake plugs in a weather proof plug?
meaning i have a 97 F250 with factory trailer towing and have a plug in the rear bumper for my bumper trailer with brakes and want to put a plugin in the bed for pulling my gooseneck without breaking into the factory harness in a half butt way(meaning cheap scotlock connectors). would like a weatherproof or close to it connection. have racked my brain(a little one at that)trying to come up with an idea.
dont like the idea of a harness from the back into the bed. and also pull a trailer with a harness TOOOOO short to go to the rear bumper to plug in the connector i already have.
any help would be helpful.
Rob
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2008 GMC 2500 HD Duramax Crew Cab 4x4
SOLD
1997 F-250HD , 4x4, auto 3.55 LS gears
TYMAR intake,
3" downpipe,4"exhaust
285/75 BUCKSHOT MUDDERS
B&M turnover ball
DMI quickcushion II rear bumper
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When I wired mine I spliced into the factory harness along the frame rail by bareing the wires and soldering them, then used some brushable electric tape to waterproof them and then wraped each one individualy with regular electrical tape then wraped everything together with more electrical tape. Everything is 4 years old now and have had no problems.
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99 (8/98) F350 XLT CC LWB SRW 4X4 6spd ZF, Hide-a-ball Gooseneck Hitch, Line-X Bed Liner, Custom Running Boards & Camper Tiedowns, 11.5 ft Caribou by Fleetwood Camper, 24 ft Haulmark Elite 10,000 lb Car Hauler, Superchips Tuner, Toyo 305/70R16 Tires on Weld Typhoon's, Bushwacker Fender Flares
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When I wired mine I spliced into the factory harness along the frame rail by bareing the wires and soldering them, then used some brushable electric tape to waterproof them and then wraped each one individualy with regular electrical tape then wraped everything together with more electrical tape. Everything is 4 years old now and have had no problems.
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That's exactly what I did too.
I also had a 6 pin plug in my bed for a gooseneck but I removed that wiring since they had used Scotch Locks on the harness. Instead I ran a short piece of cable from the 7 way to the 6 pin. On the 7 way there was room to place the extra wires under the screws.
Eighteen months and no problems.
Capt Ron
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May 2003 F-350, CC, DRW, 6.0L, 6sp man, LB, Al Wheels, Moon Roof, 52gal tranfer tank. Hitches: Draw-Tite 16K 4X and B&W GN, 8040lbs GVW. Towing 35' Newmar Kountry Star 5th Wheel Camper, 14,000lbs GVW, or Wells Cargo 24' Car Hauler, 12,000lbs GVW.
I agree with you on the Scotch or 3M "taps". They are crud. The only time I ever touch them is to take them off of something. To easy for water to get in and cause problems. The tap nicks the host wire which could intorduce a whole host of problems. The connections generally are junk as well. Way to much trouble in the long run for the quick benifit of a fast connection.
I tend to think I would do as the previous poster and wire in a second plug. Personnaly I would be more inclined to take apart the current bumper plug then add 2 leads from each wire. Soldered and wraped in heat shrink. One lead gets wired back to the origional plug, the second to the new location. Then again, I tend to over-do things and, well, I kind of like wiring. The previous poster's method seems just as workable to me as well.
How about an extension? www.drawtite-hitches.com -> electrical. They have prewired extensions ready to go. A couple of cable ties at hitch time and you can secure the excess. That way you only have to deal with one plug on your truck. Perhaps some of those rubber insulated cable stays from the electrical dept. at your local hardware. You could mount the extension to the goosneck and have it drop the tail straight down to the bumper so that you can keep it off the truck body / paint.
I know I replace my plug every year or so due to wear and the wether. Only having 1 is 1/2 the work compared to 2!!!
Good luck!
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Brent
1989 20th Anniversary Turbo Trans AM
Real RAM AIR!!
The company i work for has this as a setup to work with the bumper pull car trailer or the goose neck trailer.All they did was have an extension wire made up that plugs into the bumper plug and it is ran though the stake pocket of the truck and along the underside of the bed to a plug in for the goose neck.So when pulling the car trailer you unplug the extension that runs to the goose neck plug and do the opposite when using the goose neck.Have ran this setup with out a problem for over a year now.We have a dummy plug in for the plug at the bumper for the goose neck extension when the car trailer is being used that way nothing gets into the end of the plug!Hope that it explains how this setup is setup! [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
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-Wayne-
2001 E-350 7.3 bone stock, pulls a 18ft cargo trailer most of the time. Also pulls when needed a 20ft car trailer.
"When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it." Henry Ford.
"My grandfather once told me that there are two kinds of people: those who work and those who take the credit. He told me to try to be in the first group; there was less competition there." Indira Gandhi
I have the western hauler pkg on my truck and I have a weatherproof 6 wire plug for a gooseneck in my bed, a 7 pin for my TT below the rear bumper and a 4 pin next to it for a smaller trailer. I will look tomorrow and see how they did it.
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Kevin L. Mnt Airy, NC.
2000 Ford F350 4X4 Auto,Crew Cab Lariat, Western Hauler Package, Long bed,
Isspro EV Guages on A-Pillar, Coolant change from Green to Gold to Red,
SCT XCalibrator2 with DP's 60 tow,80 econo,120 Race
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