20 ft Komfort 5th wheel - Diesel Forum

Novanut · 12-15-2006, 09:11 AM

Any body have any experience with one of these 5th wheels, I am currently looking at one.Is there anything in particular to look for on an old unit? I believe it is a mid 80's model.This one has the axles flipped over also, will this have any effect on the trailer?What would be some areas of concern to look at? This would be our first attemp with a RV and would like to try something cheep to see if it is really for us before dropping some real money on something that would not get used. Thanks for any input.

NCHornet · 12-15-2006, 09:20 AM

20ft is really short for a fifth wheel, but anyway, check all the systems to make sure everything works correctly, reffer, heater, ac, all sinks, holding tanks don't leak, 12 volt pump works etc... The spring relocation is fine, but make sure the new spring perches were welded on not just clampedon with U bolts, make sure all outlets work, hot water heater, awning etc. It is all this small stuff that can add up to a lot. Make sure the wheel bearing have been packed recently, at least every two years or 10K miles. Check the roof real good, I would take a hose and place on the roof and check all windows for leaks, look for any patches anywhere that would show repair. It could have a early rubber roof or probably a aluminum roof (prefered).
PM me with any ?

sail684 · 12-15-2006, 10:03 AM

My father-in-law had one he pulled behind his F250. The axels had also been flipped to raise it high enough to pull behind the F250. It still did not tow level, high in front.
After a short while it started showing cracks in skin from above the landing gear toward roof. He took it to an RV repair place and was told it was built to be pulled by a smaller pu and that the stiffer suspension of the F250 was causing the trailer to break in half. He parked and it and later sold it to someone for a deer lease.

CaptRon · 12-15-2006, 10:12 AM

I guarantee that you will find rot in this camper from present or past leaks. Open all of the cabinets and cupboards and check the corners inside for loose and soft walls and ceilings. Push against the walls under every window for soft places. Check the floor at the entrance door as this is a common area for rot. Remember that rot from a past leak (that the owner says has been repaired) will not go away and will continue to consume the wooden frame work of the ceiling, walls, and floor. Seems like the wood used to build campers rots instantly when subjected to the least amount of moisture. Insulation can hold a lot of water.

I've owned 6 campers in the last 4 years, EVERY ONE has at one time leaked. I'm getting ready to tear out the walls in the bedroom of my 1994 26' Dutchmen so that I can replace the framing that is totally rotted from leaks around the windows...all the windows. I can only imagine what kind of damage has occured in a camper that's 20 years old.

So do youself a favor and besides checking all the equipment and regular stuff, take about an hour and crawl through every nook and cranny pushing on the walls, ceilings, and floor to find the soft or damaged areas. Also note any musty smell when you open the door on a trailer thats been closed up for a couple of days. The musty smell results from the water that's gotten in and now is growing mold, usually in the wet insulation.

Also, a leak can really de-value a camper and some of the campers where I live have been condemed by the county for having leaks and mold. All where sold at auction and removed, there were 38 of them, most went straight to the scrap pile.

<font color="red">Buyer Beware!!! </font>

Good Luck,
Capt Ron

short_stuff · 12-15-2006, 11:12 AM

[ QUOTE ]
Also, a leak can really de-value a camper and some of the campers where I live have been condemed by the county for having leaks and mold. All where sold at auction and removed, there were 38 of them, most went straight to the scrap pile.

<font color="red">Buyer Beware!!! </font>

Good Luck,
Capt Ron

[/ QUOTE ]

Capt Ron,
Out of curiosity, how did the county get involved with privately owned campers? Does your county have some type of inspection program? Were these setup in RV trailer parks as 'semi' permanent structures? Were these rental units that were inspected as part of a business? Just curious.
Around here, as long as the county/state gets their yearly license fee, and it is not a hazard to tow on the highway, then the county couldn't give a rats butt on the conditions inside.

short_stuff

CaptRon · 12-15-2006, 06:05 PM

Short_stuff,
I live in a gated lake community, the owners were in violation of the by-laws and covenents and the property owners association tagged the campers as derelect. The county followed up by condeming them as health hazards at which point they were towed off the lots and auctioned off. At the completion of the auction all units had to be removed from the community. I even helped out by towing a 5th wheel for the poa under the direction of the chief of police.

Capt Ron

Novanut · 12-15-2006, 08:47 PM

Thanks for the input. Were do I look for the cracks? If there are no cracks would this trailer be worth getting if it were under a $1000, Even with the rot it could have. Would it be worth the time and money to update it? Would we get the real feal of RV life with this trailer to really judge if this is for us?

thomhack · 12-15-2006, 08:53 PM

Great post! Water is a killer but dont forget about that good old sunshine too. My fw stays under a permanent shelter from rain and sun. In Florida or the southeast this is a must if you want a long life from your rv. 20 years is a loooong time for anything to be in good shape without meticulous care.

LMJD · 12-15-2006, 09:10 PM

[ QUOTE ]
Would it be worth the time and money to update it? Would we get the real feal of RV life with this trailer to really judge if this is for us?

[/ QUOTE ]
They don't all leak sooner or later. Mine is a 1984 24ft. Prowler gooseneck conversion. It's never leaked a day in it's life. Like some people, I reseal seams, flashings, etc, every few years if they look like they are getting bad. Plus it's stored in my equip shed. My MIL has what sounds exactly like the Komfort you're looking at. It's never leaked a drop of water either, she's used it about four times, had it over 22 years and it's stored in a outbuilding she had made for it. I used it for about 2 weeks in Oregon years back and as I remember it's small but had a good floorplan, a dandy little trailer. As far as components, it had the same as most all of the brand trailers, A&E awning, Atwood hot water heater, Dometic frig and furnace. It was made as well as any of the other midpriced ones. One of the many many made by Fleetwood if I recall correctly.

I also flipped my axles after I bought it before I ever hooked it up to my truck. No big deal and it doesn't effect anything trailer-wise. If it's in good shape, I think you'll really like it and get a lot of use out of it. Mines been on at least 12 2600 mile vacation trips. One that size is handy, we've also used ours at many two day events (rodeos, fishing, weddings, etc.) that were less than 50 miles from home. Easier than driving back and forth and depending on the event, WAY cheaper than getting a DUI. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

MOUNTAINMAN444 · 12-16-2006, 08:03 AM

For a thousand bucks, If it isn't rotted down and most of the major systems work, I think I would buy it. That price is cheap enough to use it a few years to make sure you like camping and then throw it away.
My .02, Joe

BEECHBM69 · 12-16-2006, 09:25 AM

[ QUOTE ]
For a thousand bucks, If it isn't rotted down and most of the major systems work, I think I would buy it. That price is cheap enough to use it a few years to make sure you like camping and then throw it away.
My .02, Joe

[/ QUOTE ]

I did exactly that. Bought a 73 GO TAG ALONG for $900 bucks just to see if I liked the camping with a trailer thing. It was sitting on a dealer lot, had been owned by an older couple who took very good care of it. Opening the door was like stepping into a time machine, complete with the green plaid Brady Bunch cushion covers.

Anyway, that was going on 8 years ago, and I haven't disposed of my disposable trialer yet.

Every time I look at a bigger one, I look at the payment and figure I'll hang on to my $900 trailer a little longer. My money spent vs fun had ratio is way up there now.... [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

Dan

Bob C. · 12-16-2006, 06:11 PM

As an R.V. technician I warn anyone considering an "older" RV to keep in mind that appliance mfg. dont always support the "older" appliances.
What does this mean ? Well, in the case of a furnace, anything older than 10 years is considered obsolete & parts are no longer available. The same thing can hold true for the refer.
The replacement cost of these items may well exceed the value of the coach it is going in.
I have seen lots of 15 year old appliances work just fine, but be aware that getting them fixed may be harder & more costly than a newer unit.
And, unless you are a skilled woodworker (& want a project) do not consider a unit with any rot or evidence of leakage.

Novanut · 12-18-2006, 10:56 AM

Thanks for all the good input,Looks like I'm off to do a good pre-purchase inspection

SAVAGESAM · 12-23-2006, 07:44 AM

If you smell mold, WALK AWAY! I wouldn't even think about trying to get rid of it.